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Thank you! @240260280

I'm sure this an obvious observation to you guys BUT I'm bored so wouldn't taking the weight off the opened hatch somehow from above, straps from the ceiling maybe, make removing those Phillips head bolts much easier. I know when I've removed the hoods on my cars I used the latch for the hooking point and a ratchet strap around a beam in my garage ceiling to take that weight off. Okay, back to the "Boobs" thread.

Well I missed you on that one! Got a couple of windows open... Here's what Mark is talking about I think.

I bought these a few years ago from my local dealership. They will have to order them but it seems like they were there in a day or two. Call the parts department and read off the numbers 16356-25610. They'll punch them in and tell you if they are still available. My guy told me the reason they still carry these was for Nissan forklifts.

Yes! Patcon has the easy way to bypass the tank. A 2 gallon gas jug will fit in between the radiator and the grill. Run a hose from the suction side of the pump into the jug. I drove mine around like that with it bungee corded down before I dropped the tank.

It's a PITA if you ask me. Don't do it if he said it's been sealed. Try and find a borescope and look. I guess I would suggest a Fram G-2 clear plastic filter right out of the tank and see if you get debri. That would be the easiest. The 240s have a bunch of vent hoses that go to an evaporation tank on the passenger's rear side of the hatch. That makes for a real jobby job. Here's a Fram G-3 install for the 280s, same concept but I've found the smaller fuel lines on the 240s fit better to the Fram G-2. They're like a 5/16" where the G-3s are 3/8". https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Next time it dies take the hose off the bottom or "in" of the filter. Blow back to the tank with your lungs. If it's hard to do at first then gets easier, and you might also hear some bubbling noise from the tank, my guess would be a crudded up gas tank. Your problem and attempts to fix are exactly like mine when I bought a '72 that would only run long enough for me to get away from my house and then walk home to get help towing it back. Then I tried the blowing back trick to clear the gunk out. That would let it run long enough to get home. Here's what came out and a shot with a borescope. It wasn't rust just years of rotten gas that turned to varnish. Goodluck, I hope you figure it out. Cliff

Just one?

He's conflicted it seems? There was a lot of those movies though...

I followed this write up from @240260280 to install a ZX dizzy on my '72 and keep the tach working. You might find something useful for the '77 dizzy to work the tach? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Getting your early Z tach to work with the upgrade (Thanks to www.zhome.com)

I've seen one of those. Seems like it uses an air compressor but I don't remember. A mechanic friend had one at his shop. Reverse fluid filling. Here's one I found on the www.com. https://www.autoanything.com/brakes/77A5485A3714372.aspx?kc=GOOGADW&DZID=PLA_g_1776970776_66506501262_5485-3714372_c&utm_source=g&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=1776970776&utm_content=66506501262&utm_product=5485-3714372&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_Lya1eqE7AIVF47ICh3xxAzOEAQYBSABEgKa_vD_BwE

I was going to suggest a ZX e12-80 like I put on my '77 and '72 from Cardone but like you say Bob, NLA.

These cheapo one man bleeders work remarkably well for me. My $.03

I agree Mike. The high end sports car do center and I like it.

At least they didn't do what Honda and Toyota is doing on their sports editions. Centered exhaust! I got a good laugh from what @AK260 said about the electric Z roe. There'd be no exhaust pipes.

My '72 has a deep V for zero at the bottom and each mark after that is 5 degrees coming up as in rotating clockwise looking at it from the front of the car. So I will say the 3rd notch would be 10 degrees coming up if that makes sense. I found the thread that got me straight. It was hard for me to understand but with the help of the forum members I finally got it. Good luck!

Are you asking me to watch this vidya? You know I've got the patience of a rattlesnake right? Which one wins? I'm gonna guess Seafoam... Thank you Greg, Cliff.

New batteries aren't always fully charged. Try an overnight 2 amp charge. Can't hurt...

Good info... https://datsunzgarage.us/borg/ https://datsunzgarage.us

On second thought maybe set the valves to spec first. You won't be running the moror during that process so the carbs are irrelevant. Take the plugs out and write out a "go by" board. Some come up together or damn close and you can do them out of sequence just X them off as you go.

But they cost more.

I guess I would get the carbs balanced first off then if it idles steady set the valves. Then do the carbs again and the timing.

There's an easy way to check part numbers you're overlooking. Amazon.com, rockauto.com, oreillys.com, advanceauto.com, autozone.com all have the option to enter your car. Year, make, model. Once you take 1 minute to do that they will tell you if it fits or doesn't fit. Like adjusting the valves, the feeler gauge fits or it doesn't fit. You have to do some reading wich should only take a minute or two. Good luck with your starter. If you don't want to pay your mechanic and want to save money do the research and install it yourself. Personally I think the Datsun Z is the easiest starter I've ever installed. You install it coming down, most others you must lay under the car and hold them up. It's a real bitch.

I like the speed bleeders too. From what I remember do the fronts then driver's side rear and finish with passenger's rear. That's where you definitely want a speed bleeder.

Here's a spare I have with #16203 on it. https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Built-16203-Premium-Starter-Remanufactured/dp/B000ES9W0M