Patcon

Well your lash pad might not be sitting deeper. If you went to thicker lash pads the wear surface would be taller compared to the bottom surface. So even if it sits on the valve the same way it would appear that its not sitting as deep. Did that make sense?

It is my understanding that Chester and Herod make the most accurate carpet kits. I can't speak to cut pile or not but the backside of the carpet looks correct. On the template, do you have a way to scan documents. If you do, you could scan it in several passes. It should print pretty close to 1:1

Yes, I agree. The rusty spare tire well makes me think the rust is more widespread. Is that the correct center console? It is a low number car and it does run. Both are pluses @Captain Obvious😉 you sell that Porsche yet? 🤣

@Terrapin Z What do you think it's actually worth? I think 8k is a little high...

That would be good info for a "resources post" "Wiper function"?

How did you create your lettering template? Is it something that could be posted in the resources if you were comfortable sharing?

Thanks for making those available!!

Nice clean work! Compressor looks really good

So I worked on tar mat some. I used the Wurth tar mat @Zup recommended in another thread. One box is just enough to do the tunnel. I will have to get some more later for the floor boards and hatch floor. The patterns I used are in the resource area Here is the rear pattern over the mat. I layed the mat out and used some clear tape to seam them together. Then I used a few pieces to tack the pattern down. I used this ruler that has a brass edge to help on the long straight cuts. Everything else was freehanded All cut out This is installed. I have that roller tool to get it stuck down properly. The film on top has been peeled since then. I didn't take any pictures of that This is the larger front piece I had to scrap out some areas on this. If I were going to do this again, I would be more selective on where I used the scrap. My scrapped out section was near the top edge of the tunnel and that made it difficult to hold together on install. I used a blue tape line to mark the overlap point

Maybe your fuel priming circuit would help?

Well, I would think it'd get better the colder it gets...

Is it possible to take a convex mirror from a donor mirror and cut it down for retrofit? I don't know how the glass mounts...

Trans aught to be quieter with 100% more lubricant!!

That's a great find! Congrats

Then I don't know right off hand. There must be an adjustment somewhere The single roller just really keeps the glass from tipping out. If it doesn't come up level then the roller guides need to be adjusted to change the tilt of the glass as it rises. The trick is getting it adjusted but not binding

No, not until gundee recommends that! Clean the plugs and drive the car...

Reman's are a very hit or miss proposition these days!

I suspect that vintage cooler is built as well as anything you could buy today. It's probably repairable and I'm sure it can be cleaned out

Don't change two things at a time!!! Make the change Gundee suggested and drive the car! Only one change at a time. Always!

The directions for the module will specify what coil to run. Does the pertronix in the dizzy have a model number on it?

The fact it worked for two weeks makes me think seating isn't the issue

Just trying to isolate the problem. If it spins, it's in the speedo. If it doesn't, it's a broken cable, damaged gear or a sheared pin

Yes, you could disconnect if from the speedo and see if it spins when the car moves.

I rebuilt the rack in my Lily thread. I don't know what page it is. There may be some info in there too.

Plenty of coils could work and start the car but you want the hottest coil you can run that will work with your distributor and ignition!! The hotter the coil is; the less fouling you will have!!!