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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. What does a new set cost? They'll need some serious elbow grease!
  2. I do not believe a replacement tube is available. Although if you don't destroy the nuts on the ends of the tube you might could refabricate the tube itself with the older fasteners.
  3. I agree, but overall we are fortunate to that resource at all
  4. I don't recall it being asked before... I would be careful removing the tunnel. The car would have to be well braced if you are going to remove the tunnel. It is a very critical dimension holder in the frame. What don't you like about the 280z tunnel?
  5. That aught to be a quiet car with all that sound mat! I love the idea of a quiet Z...
  6. I will enjoy watching the progress . Glad its here. I believe the 06 still has the external slave cylinder, which is good. I would think ABS could be challenging. 4 tone rings, wire, controls & logic... Car should be a lot of fun with that motor and 6 speeds. We had a 350z for a while. It was a lot of fun. Pretty quick and much heavier than a 280z. 400-800#s depending on the 350...
  7. Hate it on Covid. Ive had it a couple of times. First time was the worst. Several members have had vibrations from less than perfect spacers
  8. How did you handle F/R bias? Are you still running stock drums in the rear?
  9. Those really aren't frame rails in my mind. I mean they are, but they aren't. They're really more like floor reinforcements or floor braces. The frame rails in my mind run from the firewall to the radiator support. Depends what's rotted... Floor supports dont scare me too much. I have driven some Zs with no floor boards pretty hard I mean real Flintstone cars! Rotted front frame rails is totally different. Your front steering rack, suspension, motor all bolts to that! Especially the section that tends to rust first. I personally prefer to choose the direction of my car versus the rust choosing it for me 😉
  10. Pretty car. I agree the peak has settled some. I would think it's BaT or the other sites. Not both. I might put it on Hemmings or Hagerty for a while. See what it does. I guess the real risk is you might leave money on the table because you don't know what it might bring on BaT...
  11. I guess if the block is good, then the oil pan and valve cover would have some value. I don't really know...
  12. I am glad it seems much better
  13. My phone didn't ring!!!
  14. That was my first thought. I have used some Sherco wire and it has a significantly larger OD than the factory wire. What I don't know is whether modern striped automotive wire has a smaller OD than the "marine" stuff gauge for gauge
  15. That's a pretty low number car. I am generally opposed to parting these cars out, but there are always exceptions to that. Being stored in a field is really hard on the underside of the car! I don't think I would try to start it. I might oil the cylinders and see if it will bar over but starting takes a lot more effort and it will most likely need a rebuild no matter what. The upside is a great amount of the needed metal to restore the underneath has become available in the last few years and more is available every day.
  16. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in Interior
    I'm not concerned about ruining it. Just too busy to get into the shop right now.
  17. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in Interior
    I haven't tried yet
  18. There is also a similar washer at the rear pivot point for the interior handle
  19. I would prefer to see the quarter as a frame of reference but it seems like the mirror will still show if a car is in your blind spot. Using the red pole as a reference...
  20. This can be a problem after replating too. I have seen it happen but not very often
  21. Do you have a volt meter? Check battery voltage with car off and then with the car running. Post those numbers...
  22. I think I agree with Mark. Your car looks about what I expected post blasting from what we've seen up until now. I have done this several times now and there is always a bunch more metal work then you really expect. If you can afford to sub out the metal work, I would do it. I've been working on my current project Z for 12 years and have a good bit yet to go. I would encourage you to take the most direct path you can afford to a complete car that you can afford. Then go make some memories with your kids. If you can afford to sub the paint you might should do that too. It's much nicer to have a running car then a long term project. My 2 cents...
  23. Shipping would probably be $75 as a wild guess. The stripped head is aluminum so it should be too heavy
  24. I think you have thought this out well and the lack or existing patina does change the decision making progress. It sounds like a solid plan and the end result aught to be really nice
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