Patcon

Carolina Driveline Inc Howard st, spartanburg They do it all. Common through Nascar... I agree, it does seem cumbersome but I can't come up with another teason for the asymmetry you've seen.

I hate to say it but maybe the mismatched rings are an intentional balancing technique. Which would be impossible to replicate without a drivline balancer. If you find it's necessary we have a very good and regionally know driveline specialist here in Spartanburg

You can use a spot weld drill bit. I have found a round headed metal rasp in a die grinder works better. It's harder on the removed panel though. Make the metal thin and then wiggle it until it breaks loose. Then a die grinder with a 2" rolok to dress down the spot welds.

Never mind, I found it 🙂

@SteveJ Where did you find that at Rockauto. Part#? I haven't been able to find it. The Airtex had the cast impeller...

The 510 doesn't have the fan clutch. The fan bolts directly to the water pump pulley. I'll look around

So has it been adjudicated a water ump with a cast impeller is superior to the stamped steel impellers? I need to source a water pump for this motor. I did find one on Rockauto out of maybe 8 that had a cast impeller.

Where are you these days? Any car projects?

Welcome aboard! Start a build thread and post up some pictures of your car.

I wouldn't run the higher set points. My first concern is the integrity of the tank. My tank gets drained but not like it should. A ruptured tank is a bomb that you don't want to be around. Also I would expect the higher pressures are harder to achieve. I suspect the compressor efficiency is not a linear function

I had louvers on one Z in the past. I found they made the car interior much cooler which helped the AC cope better.

Don't take your car apart until you have too! Restore smaller sections and sub-assemblies as you go. Then repaint and reassemble. In the meantime you have a running car you can enjoy instead of a shop project

I thought pairs was odd too.

I believe you ciphering is correct... I would think 180 out makes the most sense. If the old spider has similar dimensions to the new I would be inclined to use the old snap rings, maybe...

Joined yesterday, strange

I don't know if you noticed Steve but yours is Ohms. MM's is kOhms

That's a great offer! Thanks for that! I better not, I'm too slow already because I have so many projects already

I would say those are original wires. They may actually work fine. I definitely wouldn't chunk them. Someone might have an interest even just for shows

That's quite the project! I'm not sure I'm that adventurous...

Who'd a thunk it!!

Would the 12v in still be 12v after a 2.2KOhm resistor? Wouldn't it be lower?

This was at the end of February There was some hardware that needed plating. So I had to get my bench back up and running. Didn't wanted to use ugly hardware on a new engine 😉

Start at post #597 p24 The bottom screw/pin retains the cylinder in the bore. You will need a sacrificial pin or a bolt for that hole. I had a corroded one that I cut off so I could plug the bottom. Tapped the reservoir. I agree, I have several Nabco clutch master cylinders and I like the idea of having the original Nabco part. The finished rebuilt part is shown in the following pages

Really??

I'm leaning in the direction that Steve was leaning. I think you have too much resistance somewhere. Your new wiring is too small, bad connection, corrosion, something. When the load spikes the flow drops momentarily. Then it recovers. I'm no "Sparkie" but that is where I would start digging. I suggest if the Captain or Steve recommends a path, that you take it. It's one of the things they're experts at!