Patcon

I think he's Implying he might not be all there! 😂

Yup, paint can hide a lot of sins!

Show some detailed pictures of the wiring connections at the coil and ballast resistor

Thats a great connection to make!!

Good looking car, welcome

I think those numbers are fine. Not stellar but pretty even

If thats the "Porterfield" they're very well known

I am thinking of the single roller that snaps over the weld flange at the top of the door on the outside edge of the window slot. It helps keep the glass from tipping out like this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiL5dOcwIqCAxW7IUQIHe0tDTUQFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fzcardepot.com%2Fproducts%2Fwindow-glass-roller-bumper-guide-240z-260z-280z&usg=AOvVaw26J0DVuFr-nNenUUkUe5NR&opi=89978449

is the roller inside the door just below the window chrome trim?

Have you considered contacting a shop that rebuilds differentials and see if you can source the shims through them?

He is what I think I would do: I love the idea of shipping the carbs and intake states side and have them fully sorted and tuned! Maybe somebody like Zcargarage. preferably using a wideband to tune them. They come back ready to bolt on. That will eliminate fueling as a possibility once and for all. That shouldn't be cost prohibitive Secondly I would ditch the pertronix and the coil! Either buy a 280zx match box dizzy (would be used so might be worn out) and a new coil or ideally buy a 123 dizzy and the appropriate coil. This would be an upgrade from what you have and is also more tunable if needed. Run that for a little while. If the problem's solved then great; if not I would probably pull the engine and re-ring it and go through the head provided the cross hatching looks good. Edit: One of the few things we haven't touched in this whole episode is the Pertronix

Since its in a stamped portion of the firewall I'm guessing it was an addition from a PO

Do you have a source for the clutches? If you do then rebuilding is an option. I didn't go that route. I installed the CLSD I have. I will run it and see how it performs first. Then rebuild it if necessary.

That was sort of my point. If all the castings are some same over a 15 year period or so, then the only way to know what it is, is by looking inside. Output flanges and covers can change over time. I'm not even sure how definite that is but atleast it would confirm ratios and open or LS

Super!

I made some pictures in the shop today. So here are two open R200's. Have the same casting number. I believe these are both 3.9's Here is a Viscous LS from an 88 Shiro Same casting numbers. The two limited slips I've had didn't have output flanges, since they use snap in CV axles. Rear covers vary depending on the application. Many people ditch the finned LSD cover because it requires more parts or work to fit. Would be interesting to know if the diffs you've had used the same casting...

Good for you!

I have one but it will only work about half the time. The ears are too large sometimes especially if the bushing is set in deeply. Then there is no room to hook the rear edge of the bushing

Just because they are refurbished does not mean they are set up properly. If the float levels, mixture and balance aren't right it's gonna foul plugs. It might be interesting to try to get a matchbox dizzy and dump the Pertronix. I have had mixed results with Pertronix. I wouldn't use one on my car anymore.

Does anyone have thoughts on this? Should the factory pump setup self prime without cracking lines?

Are those cases different to the 300zx LSD cases? Edit: from to 280 to 300zx

The later doors have a number of differences. The latching and strike mechanism is totally different. I think the crash bars are heavier as well as things like the rubber across the top of the door frame. I guess the biggest thing would be if the mounting points are all the same. I would expect so but I'm not certain

What details suggest this? I don't have any pictures currently of the R200 LSD's I have to compare to

I set them at the back edge of the chamfer. I have always lightly greased the tip of the input shaft. I didn't think it would hurt...

Depends on if you can find one in a junkyard or maybe a member might have a good candidate. Most anything you find will have to be gone through...