Patcon

Used carbs are hit or miss. Ztherapy is the best play for a solid set of carbs. Rebuilt, rebushed, no vacuum leaks... Reasonable price, I guess that depends on your expectations, varies a lot...

Neighbors... highly over rated

Which Carl???

You can flex the hard lines enough to tip the master out of the way without disconnecting it. I don't know the dimension for you to calculate it and don't have a booster torn apart currently. It is easy to drop the disc down into the booster. It is possible it is already down in there. If it is, the booster will have to come off so you can shake the disc out. If it hasn't fallen down in the I use a little rtv to fix it to the end of the pushrod

When you push the pedal, part #5 in your diagram all moves forward, pushing the reaction disc that pushes the pushrod, that pushes the master cylinder. When you let off the springs in the master cylinder force the pushrod back to keep it in place in part #5

The pulley won't spin because it has a keyway in it. The bolts aren't very large so I wouldn't expect them to be terribly tight

What is your plan for numbering the plates? Dies or engraving? Font?

If the adjustment is out on the 6th cylinder, I would adjust them all. If I remember right you can do them two at a time because another cylinder will be lobes up at the same time #6 is

Cool. Post up you impressions here once it's in and you have some miles on it. Would be nice to add some feedback to the info already here

I'm on my heating pad right now too Like my buddy says "Getting old ain't for sissies..." Hit me up when you get close to being ready and we'll work it out...

Well I finally came up with something I think will work. It took several test panels to get it where I think it's right. I used Nason FulCryl II single stage mixed 8 : 3/4 hardener 483-11 : 1 1/4 reducer 441-21 when mixed to 6 sprayable oz's add 1 1/2 oz of Limco LF-10 flattener So a couple of weeks ago we scuffed everything down... Hung it all back up in the booth Made it all black this morning The sheen is pretty good. Has some sheen that you can see but not real glossy. If I had to do it over I might use the Eastwood satin but I have seen some issues with people having adhesion problems. The Nason has never been any issue. Sprays well and sticks really well. This is shot over Omni epoxy primer.... Time to order some bushings and get moving on reassembly

Do what Mark suggests he is on the right track ^^^^^

@siteunseen Cliff, After you finish visiting Steve, keep on coming up I-85 and visit us. I have a guest house you can stay in during the visit. Missed seeing you in Memphis. You were too busy bar crawling with Bruce...

Zedyone Do you have a fire extinguisher in your Z? At 18 psi, blowing fuel everywhere above the exhaust, it might be a good idea....

Very pretty! I like the linkage hardware. I have a set like that somewhere on the shelf or I would be in the hunt...

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm

I suspect if Eiji built it, he has records of that. If there is a problem with the engine I would talk to him first. He has a very good reputation and has built engines for several forum members

TMI !!! My eyes! my eyes!!!

Maybe they would make one if you called them. This can't be a super high volume business

Thanks Guy, I have been planning on single stage but we may go BC/CC

Martin makes good tools

looks well packaged

Grannyknot is correct. He is the man to go to and very supportive of our old cars. He is the only source for some NLA parts...

Exactly right! It would take a good setup and an experienced DIYer to get decent results

My sample of 918 doesn't seem to be as orange as yours. I wonder if that's the brand of paint? The sample at the top of the hood is 918, almost mustard color, not really orange. Guy is your paint single stage or BC/CC?