Patcon

The front is likely cracked from the rear being broken. The flexing broke the front right around the washer. The back looks broken from heavy people dropping into the seat repeatedly.

wd40 doesn't work as good as "Kroil" or "PB blaster". An impact screw driver would be my tool of choice. After that I switch to cutting tools and taps. They can be very hard to get out. The nuts on the bottom are welded to the cowl...

We have had the clutch issues with my wife's 350z. I will have to look into RJM Performance The clutch issues are even worse on the internal slave system cars

$11k! That's a lot of money for a rusty project!!!

I am gonna have to get busy to keep up

Is this the case with Poly bushings? He said he went Poly in the first post...

Beautiful as always!

Now that's a great Christmas present!

A very doable car. The floor boards are toast, but in my opinion the hardest part to fix on the whole car is that bad dent to the left of the rear hatch. The metal there is paper thin and extremely hard to weld or hammer on...

Those bubbles in the paint mean it's not rust free!!!!!

It really isn't that hard to remove the rear harness and reinstall it. Use some stiff wire to help feed the harness back in. I would never leave the harness in for media blasting . They will destroy the harness...

That would be interesting to know! @Mike

@JLPurcell

I think you can actually work around all of that. Not easy but doable...

True. I watched one show where they were painting a hot rod. They drove it onto a piece of plastic. Then pulled that up all the way around and taped it to the inside of the wheel wells and frame all the way around. Paint on the car and no where else

Why can't you register it in another state? what prevents you from doing that?

Why are you going back to the 4 speed? Why would you go back to an L24 unless it's the original block? Most people would consider this as a downgrade unless you are going for a purist restoration.

I was just thinking about this the other night and I think I will mount the tank up first. Much easier and I figure I will have tent the underside of the car anyway to protect from over spray and trash

Thanks. I will work on it...

They're slowing them down to "encourage" you to upgrade...

So they don't come with a frame? Do you have to supply one or do you mate them up after they ship you a dash?

WWWWHHHATTTTT?

You do have to very careful to graft the clip on in the right place. A frame rack would be best, like shown in Diseazed's pictures. Also there is a pdf somewhere that has all the frame dimensions so you can verify rail locations. There is a plan view and a side view. You can probably find it with Google images

Will that interfere with the under dash AC vents? We have one we plan on installing.

I believe, edit the post, highlight the picture and hit the delete key...