Patcon

@greekz

I could look around too if no one else has one. I don't know if I have one or not

Also did you set the valve lash cold? Early on in my life I had an L24 I rebuilt that wouldn't start. Took it to our mechanic. The valves were too tight, no compression or intake vacuum

Ad is almost a year old. I suspect it is long gone. You might pm the original poster

There are 2 main approaches to the carpet. One is the factory pattern carpets.The other is more of a custom setup that usually covers the transmission tunnel and sometimes the rear strut towers. I am of course assuming "restore"means replacing. If not you could redye the carpet you have and respray vinyl to get good color. There was an older thread on the original supplier of the carpet kits @Zup If you do a custom kit they sometimes need massaging with heat to get them to fit properly

Can you post a picture of the part?

I will look at it some more on Friday. I need to get the clip out and see where to go from there.

It must be this thread @Richard McDonel So there must be a snap ring down in that crud I can't see. How strong is the spring??? Don't want it to go every where when I get the snap ring out...

The dent in the rear below the tail lights is a hard area to work. There are multiple layers of metal there and they can be very stubborn. I had a bigger dent and couldn't pull it. I ended up cutting out a section. I repaired it and welded it back in.Probably would be a better repair if you remove the whole valance and repair it, but there are a lot of spot welds back there. I thought about removing those seams at one time too. Be sure and seal the seam on the inside too with some seal sealer to prevent water intrusion.

No problem

At least it's durable! And it has room to spread out

Ok, so started working on the proportioning valve.Got the cap off but the piston doesn't want to come out. Any ideas? I have it soaking in PB blaster. I figured compressed air from the rear brake port, but am not hopeful...

This is the main shop

Thats a lot of shelling to do. If I remember right they have quite the shell on them...

That's a good guess

What have you got stacked all over the table on the saw horses?

Any problems with the cylinder head? Let me know if you need anything. I have a few laying around if you were to need one...

20012, I wonder if that is the old plating formula or the new formula. You might want to ask because it will change your approach slightly. Also I don't know if the old and new formulas are compatible. Would love to have some more input from another plater to help narrow down the best process

That's why I think they are

@65 Tuxedo

I tried spraying carb cleaner down it. I thought it probably went straight down but I couldn't see it in the bore. Not surprising with the amount of corrosion. I am withholding the after clean up pictures for now. I eventually got both SU's apart and cleaned up. I had to use a heat gun and assorted methods to get the throttle plates moving and out. I believe these were rebuilt by Ztherapy at one time. I am still hoping I can get it running. Then I will show what it's using to run with... If I can get the motor free enough and get the starter to spin it.Then I will try to get a spark and fire it up...

I finally made some more progress on the car. I have been trying to get the fuel line brackets plated properly and that has delayed progress. I just about have all of them properly plated. I started on fuel lines and brakes lines today. The really long lines are a challenge. I have the old lines that I can duplicate from. I am using the Fedhill material. I should have made better pictures on disassembly. Having to reference the other z in the yard and motormans thread. One trick I have come up with is to use blue tape to help duplicate the lines... As I bend them I tape them together. Then I cut it to length when I get close to the end.

I did some plating last weekend which was a challenge because some of my tanks froze. This was frozen solid! Took 2 hours to defrost on high. Got mixed results last week. It was better but still not right.Tried .14 / .16 / .18 per squ in So I moved the plating setup into the shop, and I did some more plating today. I made some progress... I did add the dilute muriatic acid / water / alcohol / water steps. I am not sure they helped. I haven't added another pump yet. I think what made the biggest difference was I ran more current. I hung a part in the plating tank. Then I cut off the pump and turned up the current until the part bubbled.Then I backed the current back down until the bubbles basically stopped. Then I restarted the pump. I ended up between .22 and .25 A per square in.

I have been working on cleaning the SU's. I would like to get it running if possible. I am not planning on keeping this car, just get it far enough along that it gets saved. We'll see But I have a question. Where is this port supposed to connect inside the carb? I can't find the other end of the passage

Oh, cool. Looks like it might have been a ceramics kiln at one point