Patcon

@Captain Obvious You could include some O2 datalogging to pick up those qualities

My tool was similar but I used a piece of plywood in the center with 2x4 arms screwed to each end. About 5' long overall. I used some wood working clamps to squeeze it with the bottom half held by a vise. Lots of leverage

The original paint is a catalyzed single stage. If it's solid and well adhered you can paint over it. I would primer first so I could make it smooth and prevent bleed through You can have immediate or long term problems. Some problems show up quick, like solvent pops or fish eyes. Some like untreated rust can show up months or years later...

Before you blast or sand anything, wash the engine bay - twice. Then I would use a wax and grease remover. Then sand or blast. I would convert any minimal rust with a phosphoric acid product. I would never use a rattle can primer under a catalyzed paint. Catalyzed primer only. For me I run epoxy over bare metal then I run high build primer. Look @Home Built by Jeff thread. Lot's of good paint instruction and how to's

Yes, I have done it. I did make up a tool for leverage. They can be difficult to reassemble. I found that squeezing the two shells together made assembly possible

NOOOO!!! Talk to the PPG guys. Ask them for what to buy and how to do it. It is also best to stay with PPG products start to finish to avoid incompatibility issues. Be very careful and use a good respirator with these cars paints. They can hurt you in permanent ways if you get careless. You can also go to the PPG website was you have product and get the "P" sheets (technical product instructions) which will provide a lot of the details for how to use the product, grit to finish at, spray tip, pot life, etc. Ask all questions, there are a number of members here who have DIY paint experience. Ask first before you muck something up or waste expensive products. Some one will try to help I am sure

I may have one. I can look...

Maybe @Zup will take you for a ride in his 73 in Oct. He is running flat tops from Paltech and I don't think he has any issues with them

It's probably not oil. It is probably watery soot. My sons car does that sometimes when it's too rich and he revs it. Pull the choke to 3/4 and start it. Then push the choke down some but not enough to make the car stall. Let it warm up a few minutes. Don't rev the car while it's cold! When it warms up enough to rev with out acting up, drive it moderately until it warms up good...

@motorman7 Maybe the next one?

What did they use for a seal on the hatch? Not many sealants play well with gasoline...

@Zup That was one of the things I thought was nice. They seem to have all the strips for the factory bumpers if someone were to need those items

We have already seen some unique Z's sell in the six figure range and some early cars that are really well done trading for north of 50k - 60k. 10 years ago that would have been unheard of. Look at Porsche 911's they are going up like mad. Now that the Z is receiving so much publicity it is highly likely that these cars will continue to appreciate at double digits rates. If classic Z's appreciate at 10% per year the prices will double every 7 years... Hagerty has a1970 #1 class car valued @ $64,400 and a #2 @ $38,700 On another note it wouldn't cost me $50-75 to do one of these cars. I could probably do it for half of that, but my personal shop time is free, sort of...

I found this site on like the 7th page of a google search. I hadn't heard of them. I was looking for 510 seals but they also have Z and ZX seals. I haven't really studied the prices but I thought it might be an interesting source. FWIW http://www.vintagerubber.com/240z.aspx

Maybe, but would one of these be worth the effort at $100k value? In 10 years that's what these early cars will probably bring. Now admittedly these will take a lot of work, but I have seen people redo worse It just takes time and money

Summit racing shows three options for that. One looks stock, two are loaded or semi loaded with pads...

That was always my theory too. Clearance issue or rattle issue

Sorry wasn't paying that close of attention today

They sell body shim kits at Harbor freight. Cheap kits but useful none the less...

Excellent progress, be safe...

find the thread "waking the beast" or something like that. Lot's of good tips

These blocks are quite durable and a number have been opened thousands of miles later and still show evidence of the cross hatching

I am thinking more along the lines of "E" earth / "P" park / "F" fast Don't know what the others are right off the top of my head...

On the bolt, what is the size and thread? I might match it that way. Order what you know you need in an 8.8 or stronger...

Those little shims can be hard to source. As well as the hinge boots. I found mine on Ebay several years ago for reasonable money... These are the kinds of parts that are great to strip off of junk yard dogs. NLA and hard to find...