Patcon

I would say those are all excellent numbers

Those are cool!!!

Did you check on Earl's performance site? Summit Racing or Jegs?

It is an asphalt based sound mat. Sometimes it will just chip out. Others have used a heat gun and chip it out, but some have had really good results with dry ice, then chipping it out.

Yes, I believe that is correct. I wonder what the polishing grit is in professional paint buffing compounds?

Ahhh, the "metal shavings master"

There is a specific material that glass shops use to polish glass, but the name escapes me right now. I have used polishing compound on my son's Datsun on a 7" VS buffer. Every door we do, we polish the window before reassembly. It is not a cure all. It does help but on deep scratches what tends to happen is the scratch just gets polished up, not polished out. So it's ends up as a groove with polished sides. better but not perfect, but for general dullness from years of going up and down against grimey window felts it works good

It looks good. Are you planning on sanding and buffing eventually?

How tall are you? I am 6'5" and have never found it to be a problem fitting into an early Z. Now my wife's 350z is a different story... I have a set of black BMW vader seats I am going to try to fit into a 240, maybe later this year

Working on Cody's goon. Trying to get it Hwy ready. Also working on momma's 350z to get new cats on it and a re-engineered clutch pedal. I am going to borrow it from her for the week. Look ma no hands!!! ?

Do you know any of them? I would hate to see goods parts end up as soup cans.

I like leather. If I can ever do it, I will go with leather. I wouldn't think it would affect the value except on a true survivor type car. Just keep the old covers...

This is correct. I found some that I believe are 3/32. I had to buy a box of 50 but I matched them to the existing ones before drilling them out.

Anyone else close who can go get it? Cylinder head, fuel tank, steering column, hood, rear panels. Lots of good parts. I would be there in a minute if it wasn't 3000 miles away. I would drive 3 hours each way to get a car like that. Title in hand!

@Mark Maras @Zed Head

That's no good. Be safe...

It would have been a fun thing to test! ? Oh well, it's ok though, the parts are sold already. It was really a good deal for somebody. Front fenders can go as high as $300 each and the tachometer he had is over $100. Plus all the other parts...

Absolutely!!!! Time and money ahead... The reviews on the Tabco panels are sort of hit or miss, but they are really the only ones available. It sounds like the metal at the step can get over stretched and split when they are stamped. Good to know...

Is that 2 stage?

When I do this I use method #1. Some predrilled or punched holes. Puddle them in, a little grinding, good as new...

I had one once that I couldn't get out. I chained to the nut on the top of the strut with some washers and wrapped a tow strap or chain around the bottom of the strut tube. Come-a-long from the strut to a tree and cranked down on it. I gave up when I was worried I was going to pop the cable. It was a part that I shipped to someone else so I gave up on it. If you don't have trees, heavy trucks or tractors will do. I would try to pull it out first. If that doesn't work then I would try something to break the rust down. like others have said, then pull it again

What was the technique for adjusting the gap? Did he cut it and reweld it or some other technique?

It would be interesting to see pictures of your car to see if your assessment of it being a parts car is correct. These cars get more salvageable every year... I agree with others about this car though. It's done! The problem is you would need a ton of new metal. I suspect a lot of the panels rotted from the inside out due to the salt air. That means when the car gets cleaned up, a bunch of these panels won't be usable. 2 Quarters, inner and outer rockers, roof frame, rear hatch, both complete front rails, inner wheel wells, front strut towers, floor pans, 2 doors. Almost nothing would go untouched. Many of these parts would have to come from other donor cars. It doesn't make sense to use so many parts on just this one car when a good donor car could be used to save a bunch of other cars instead of this one. If it was a really low number car I might view that differently, but it's not.

I removed mine and found some appropriately small rivets to replace it after paint. I wouldn't let them clean it up or even keep it! Go remove it yourself or get it from them when they remove it. There are a couple of vendors you can get a new one from but you will need to provide some proof of ownership stuff.

Never mind!! I got lost in Rich's restoration shop