Patcon

Where on the panel is the stamping?

Northern Tool "Black Diamond"

Wouldn't surprise me. There is an olive chromate

Although if the tranny is wobbling around, that might transfer some force through the input shaft to the crank. Which could be affecting rear main clearances and the seal

I believe it is roughly 5/8" and I wouldn't think ID is critical

Mine did that, but they can be twisted some by hand or dollied some to make it line up. I haven't seen the need to cut one yet. Not saying yours don't

Did the guides get replaced? or did they get reamed? If the machinist reamed them, they could have been too tight, but reamed guides wear faster and can allow blowby

It's always surprising what's hiding under pretty paint

Look in my build thread. I believe I have some pictures of me rebuilding the inner brace from scratch

That seemed like a good deal. A little far even for me

Maybe the newer style help covers the hole? Making it taller would in theory make the base a little wider...

I have had good results with marketplace but I am not sure it's the best place for a Z. It really needs broader regional exposure. since many of these cars relocate to other states when they sell. Have you tried Ebay, Hemmings, Bat yet?

The EFI guys here can help you get it sorted. Just provide lots of details and some pictures

Courtesy has a pretty good parts site but the best thing is, they are very supportive of the classic car segment. I like to see that rewarded

Thanks Dennis and Mark and all the other vets around here!

I suspect its in the water jacket

Yes that is the AC drain

Pictures might help. Because I assume this car is new to you

Many of us would opt for computer controlled cars if funds weren't an issue. There are some really nice things about computer controlled cars. The late 70s and early 80s cars require a logical mechanical mind to sort out, but it can be done. They ran great when new, so it can be done. Many of the cars have been neglected and hacked on by previous owners but this forum sorts out a hand full or more of these kinds of cars and associated problems every year. I suspect you have a bunch of vacuum leaks to start with. It's just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it, but a 4 barrel is not a good choice for these engines. If I was adamant about going carburated, I would bolt on a set of SU's. They are simple and very effective. They also have a more even fuel mixture over the 6 cylinders, that the 4 barrel won't and you don't need a box full of jets to get the mixture right

Looks like ST sway bars. Do you like them?

I don't believe there is any computer controlled timing on that car. I might be wrong, but if the computer is involved, it is only for basic power. The ignition is still pretty simple on the 83 cars

It is a great rebuild tool. It will help with measuring TDC and any piston protrusion from the block

Why not run the 280 Dizzy and match box. That gives the hotter spark with no points

"A well known problem with Weber manifolds for Datsun Zs is that the exhaust ports are interspersed with the inlets. Therefore a one-piece inlet flange is not possible. To avoid the whole manifold distorting, which causes the inlet ports to misalign with the cylinder head, the Mangoletsi manifold has carefully designed webbing and ribs to give extra strength and rigidity " The low end torque design might be nice but many of the improvements are the kind of things racers are looking for. The little bit of bore offset I'm sure cost a fraction of power but most people will never know it. Now if you are measuring lap times you might see the difference...

It is possible to adjust the hood hinges sometimes. It's hit or miss but there is some adjustability