Zed Head

My basic point is - your ignition system might be bad, or incorrectly wired, despite the fact that i's new and you followed instructions. Disconnect, test, know. Use the process of elimination.

Here's the more relevant industry news for Crane. https://www.cpgnation.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/FAST-Unveils-New-Ignition-Division.pdf In 2001, FAST® was acquired by the COMP Performance Group™ https://www.aftermarketnews.com/edelbrock-owner-acquires-comp-performance-group/ Industrial Opportunity Partners (IOP), an operations-focused private equity firm based in Evanston, Illinois, and owner of Edelbrock LLC, has announced the acquisition of the COMP Performance Group.

It's new and you have a new problem. FAST and Holley and Crane are all just brand names now, supported by big marketing. Many of the names are actually part of the same big corporation. The product manufacturing has all been outsourced to the least expensive contractor. Won't hurt to disconnect it and be sure it's not the source. Trust, but verify. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holley_Performance_Products Effective June 22, 2010, Holley emerged from bankruptcy protection.[33] In 2012, the private equity firm Monomoy Capital Partners acquired Holley Performance Products.[34] In 2013, Monomoy Capital Partners sold Holley to Lincolnshire Equity Fund IV, L.P.[35] In 2015, Holley acquired the MSD Group which includes MSD Performance, Mr. Gasket, Accel, Superchips, Edge, Racepak, Mallory, Hays, QuickTime, and Lakewood.[36] in 2018, Lincolnshire Equity IV, L.P. sold Holley to Sentinel Partners who merged the company with its Driven Performance Brands

Freud? What? 🤒

Those are the distributor "trigger" wires to the ignition module. They only have voltage when the distributor is spinning. Edit - actually those must be the wires up to the ignition module in the cabin. So they're dead, no voltage. Nothing obvious in your pictures. "New coil" seems like a possible problem source. I think that it's more than just a coil, it's an ignition system. It has power and ground circuits, one of those misconnected could cause your issue. Instead of going to the fuse box you might disconnect the things that have positive wires connected to them then see if your battery positive cable has a path to ground. Leave the battery disconnected and you can't smoke any wires or fuses. I think that FAST bought Crane's technology. The FAST site is very poor, but Summit has old instructions. https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/xr700 instructions.pdf

IF you highlight the text you want to quote a green box should show up. Click the box and you'll get a reply box with the text inside. Could you describe what is working now and what is not? Lights, ignition, etc. Do you have any of the breakers installed? Also describe or show your battery connections, including the links for the EFI system. The two green fusible links at the battery positive post. Might as well start at the beginning, the battery, and see what you have. Seems like things are pretty messed up.

Here's a pretty recent thread. He doesn't show the actual prying up of the metal tabs but you can probably figure it out. A small screwdriver, some needle nose, whatever your favorite tools are. Open it over a box top or a surface where you can find the little parts when they get away. Pic 36 is the start, about 2/3 down the page.

I forgot the one that I usually remember - 1975 has a different pattern and maybe bolts. It is unique among the Zs.

No offense, but this is completely incorrect. The outer shape of the flange changed over the years, there are square and round, but the bolt pattern and size is the same for all of them. It does look like the automatic got a different bolt at some point though. No year is specified. But they do interchange. The same size bolt through the same size hole, through all of the years of the Z. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft/2

It is essentially an upside down strap, like the factory one over the nose of the diff, but oriented longitudinally under the crossmember and made of metal. Does it really effect the movement much, compared to the rubber strap over the top? Not seeing large benefits. It does look like a simple strap replacement though, if you have the tools. p.s. if the large chunk of vibration damping metal is there on the crossmember it can't be used. Most of us remove that anyway, just saying.

Too bad he didn't supply a ref to the chapter. I looked in P & D and didn't see any mention at ll about nuts and bolts. Here's a drawing from 1976 though. And 1972...

You can remove the valve cover and check the cam lobes also. Or stick a hose in the spark plug hole and blow. If it's on the exhaust stroke it will be easy. Many ways.

You could just disconnect the outlet of the filter and do a volume test. That will tell you something. There's a test described in the FSM. Remove the hose, put it in a container, run the pump for a certain time, you'll have flow rate. If it's low, replace the filter and try again. I thought there was a rate test but there's not, that I can find. Must have seen it somewhere else. Anyway, when the flow is good, it's obvious, when it's not, it's obvious.

The fact that it hit 35 shows that the FPR is working. It blocks fuel flow until the design pressure is reached. The leak down to 25 isn't too bad, the systems always lose some pressure when the pump is not running. The 25 psi when the engine running is too low. When you try the pump check test make note of how fast the pressure rises. You might have just a weak pump or maybe a clogged filter. Pressure should rise to 36.3 within just a few seconds.

I have not seen any controversy over aftermarket pumps on an EFI car, except for people who use a very high volume pump like the Walbro 255. It's noisy because it's way too much fuel for the system. Otherwise, they are common, there are many good brands. The factory pumps are super expensive if a person can even find one. Not sure how controversy got involved here. The simple test for the pump is to remove the small wire from the starter solenoid and turn the key to Start. The pump will run, but the engine won't turn so you'll see the base no-vacuum pressure. As Dave WM said - it should be around 36.3 psi. (The FSM says 36.3 psi, which is 2.5 bar).

Here's something that I did when measuring voltage drop across my ignition wires. Take a long piece of wire and run it from the battery positive post to the coil positive post. If the engine turns over and has fuel it should start. You'll have to remove the wire to get the engine to die. Not sure how your wires are connected at the coil and ballast, and you don't have any test light or meter measurements or spark checks so that's just a quick and dirty check. If it starts at least you know that there's hope. And don't forget starter fluid. p.s. "turn over" and "crank" are the same thing.

Casting core plug https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

The pressure seen on the gauge depends on the size of the volume in the gauge and its fittings that the air is being compressed in to. A long hose, or a big gauge, or an adapter can lower the pressure. The smaller the volume the higher the number. Pop's Z's Z has a small chamber head (280Z head, probably N42) on a block with flat top pistons. Should be around 10:1 CR, give or take some. Higher than the 8.3:1 of the typical 280Z engine. So, higher cylinder pressures. Like SteveJ wrote, it's the comparison that really matters.

Hammer time. Supposed to start at 11:00 minutes.

I think that he probably got some of that blue silicone hose at OReilly or Autozone.

No, 12V post is S, which would be the top of the T in your plug. Ignition key on is the vertical part of the T. I don't know which way that plug fits n the alternator so can't say which color is what. But, by your description, it looks backward. Here is an image from an 83 ZX Z, which used the S and L terminology. and Nissan used it in theri schematic. The T is upside down but that should be manageable.

If it ran before it seems like nothing major would have happened just from disconnecting and reconnecting the AFM hose. I don't know that I would start messing with things that you haven't touched. Focus on the area you were working in. Looks like you disconnected the throttle valve sensor for some reason. What else did you disconnect? One strong possibility is that you disconnected the water temperature sensor and are flooding it. That would be one reason starting fluid doesn't work. I agree with Dave, that internal fuel tank looks scary. Reminds me of what I saw in a wrecking yard once. A full size fuel tank strapped inside the car, a Z, with hoses running through holes up to the engine. A firebomb waiting to happen.

Don't forget the obvious. There's a left and a right. They might be bypassed in your setup or they might not be.