Zed Head

I think the fork is hitting the back of the hole at the end of the stroke. He might have a bit more but it doesn't look right. Should be more centered.

It's a very common problem. There is a multitude of pressure plate and throwout sleeve combinations. Tall, short, and in-between. The cheap clutch is probably fine, it's the combination of parts that is the problem.

Looks like a worn clutch or wrong throwout bearing sleeve/collar. The fork seems to be hitting the back of the bellhousing hole. I think I can even see a mark.

This is much clearer than the Nissan drawing. I posted that snip from the FSM mainly to show the ball bearings in the races. And the "bound bumper rubber" that I think nobody has ever actually seen.

Link? You must be the seller.

Heat.

Here's a thought though - put some modeling clay or thin gasket material or grease across the full width of the bearing pocket. See if the shaft end itself is interfering with the front cover. The ball bearings in the races have quite a bit of lateral movement and are designed to take a load. It's sounding more like the end of the shaft is getting jammed in to the cover.

I'm not an expert. And not really sure where your problem is. I remember measuring several front covers and transmissions, from 76 to 83, and finding that they all needed a 0.3mm shim, so there was not a lot of variation over the years. But the table shows that if A is big then you can go without a shim. I also remember realizing that the gasket must be involved in the measurement since it adds to the depth of the bearing pocket. In your case, for what you're doing and working with, I'd leave the shim out and use a thicker gasket until you get free shaft movement. Just to see if you can, and if that is the problem.

Heat-soak 77. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-55/

Round-top 73. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-154/

"We thought... four years later we added the scirroco fan to the 1979 280ZX to try to solve the injector heat soak problem. Five more years later we solved the problem properly/correctly/finally by abolishing the L6 and developing the V6 engine."

Can you see or feel a gap under the front cover before you try to torque the bolts? Are you using a gasket? For any future lurkers, I found the part about sealing the "withdrawal" lever (pivot) ball pin threads. Didn't know it was in there. Not your issue, just adding...

The countershaft bearing actually requires a shim to get proper preload once the cover is installed. I remember that the countershaft bearing was tight against the gear on mine when I removed it. I had to fabricate a sort of bearing splitter to get under the edge it was too close to get puller jaws in. Yours looks like it has lots of space, like the countershaft bearing is not fully seated. Mine was right up against the gear. The inner race should be driven all the way down to a seat area, I believe. Edit - you can see the inner race seat in the illustration above.

Looks like one of the "tall" 240Z pressure plates. If you don't get another tall one you'll need a different throwout bearing sleeve/collar and maybe a different slave cylinder. People have problems with the early 240Z stuff. Beware. zKars posted a link to a place that sells tall pressure plates in one of his past threads.

Cool. Looks like there's a team. BoosterDewey and BoosterSteve. http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/ https://www.yelp.com/biz/power-brake-booster-exchange-portland https://www.facebook.com/BoosterDewey/ https://www.facebook.com/pg/BoosterDewey/about/?ref=page_internal

Watched your video. And a day later an ad for this shows up on Yahoo. Never ever seen this ad before. Spooky. https://mooxbuy.com/products/firewood-drill-bit

Agree with S30. It seems that way. Your wiring has the correct voltages. Have the alternator tested at a parts store. It looks like you have the ground wire connected also but you might as well confirm a good ground with your meter. Measure continuity from the alternator case and the ground post to the body and/or engine block and the negative post of the battery. It's a bummer when new parts fail right away. Good luck.

$16,000 for the black 78 four speed. Looks like a dependable ride, no worries about using it. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-88/

@KONI Lee @Joseph@TheZStore @James@TheZStore Just notifying the guys that should know.

I have read about this same thing happening. I think it's on the site somewhere. Search around. I'll post it if I find it. Found it -

It might be that one of your wires came loose. Check for voltage on the purple and cyan wires with the key on. One is the Sense wire (for the internal regulator) and the other energizes the windings to allow the alternator to charge. Might be that you lost one of those. I have read that some of the adapters can fail. That would be the most likely place to look if you don't have voltage at the purple and cyan wires.

Not really clear what the problem is. You mentioned voltage from the alternator, but said that something "is not holding any charge". Is the battery dying? Does it die right away or overnight, or over a few days?

It should just drop right in to the same spot the old one comes out of. The Pertronix conversion is all under the distributor cap. The one ohm coil would be a match for the ballast resistor. Like madkaw says it should tell you if the distributor is the problem. Set the points gap and it should work just fine. I don't think that you need to worry about the other condenser. That's the radio noise condenser, not the points condenser, which is already installed on your new unit.