Terrapin Z

Just thought I would share this picture as I came off a hill early in the morning on the way to a club (ZCCW) drive. That's Mount Rainier looking from Cooks Hill in Chehalis WA. All in all it was a fun 300 mile drive this day.

I dug up a short one that matches the long one in number (9), hex head size, and patina. It is included in my PM response, Capt.

That lower bolt looks like something off a 1920's Ford. Too much shank too.

Let me know if I can help you out. I have a large tub of bolts. Patina style.....

No captive washers no flange or recessed head. Just 9 in the 1.5 and 7 on the 1.25.

Odd, my M10 "7" bolts are all 1.25 thread, and my 1.5 thread bolts are all "9" bolts I'll look at some more, but so far it is the same on a big handful of bolts.

Pretty close....

Agreed, that pic was from Hybrids. The first was a JDM site selling the seal. It does not look like the cutaway part is as tall on the replacement piece. Placing it over the gap seems like it would be more useful, than starting at the gap.

These small square seals?

I was getting 24.99mm and 25.01mm depending how I turned it.

It is right about 25mm +/-

@texasz A break in the rain, a ratchet strap and some persistence.

Not yet, I didn't spend much time on it as we needed to fix some pot holes in the driveway. Power was out again today. I'll keep at it, It is pouring out right now. Apologies for taking so long.

I have one on a 73 240z engine, I tried to get it off the motor yesterday. It was moving a little but did not come off. I will try some more today as I am off work early and the power is off to boot. It is not raining so a good time to work on it some more.

This part of the ECU? (Pic stolen from eBay for reference) I might have one to part out.

I'll look after work, but I think I only have the 240 tube. The 240z has the extra nipple, and the 280z does not. Sound correct. I stole these pic's from eBay for the clarification.

My picture won't load, but it has been noted here about the safety factor. I agree as well, the studs don't look seated in the back of the hub. Perhaps there is some built up in the hole or the stud has some extra metal around the head of it. I always hate to back track like taking the hub back off and seating the studs correctly. This is an area of safety in the wheel spinning true and not falling off the car when making some spirited turns. The knocking noise you mentioned at the start of this thread might be the lug nuts were bottoming on the stud before securing the wheel to the hub. That is also a safety issue I would not want in my car, plus you would never get it aligned. This sounds like the studs are too long. did you compare them to the old ones first? These studs don't look squared up to the hub as others have said. It is hard to put a right angle in a picture but I think you'll get the idea.

I have this pair. CPM shows only one part number for both, But being used the have the screw hole on opposite sides. This is a L/R pair. There are some dimples in the pleats but no holes or mice chewings.

I do have some tubes. Do you just need specific ones or all of them.

The threads bottom out against that sleeve, thus making the torque spec. I had enough threads still showing I double nutted it. Just to be sure it did not come off.

I saw this on Face Book. $350 seems a bit steep though.

Well there you go I didn't scroll down at all, as it is with most FB ad's I see. There was a picture of the "trunk" but no door in there.

Pick N Pull won't sell the whole car unless they list it as a builder. They also only show this one picture of it in the processing yard. They get stripped fast. Funny they list the transmission as unknown, they can't tell a stick from an automatic? It should also have the desirable brake booster on that one as well.

I don't even see a drivers door in any of the pictures. 12/71 would be too late for your request.

Like I mentioned they do offer sales prices every now and then. It is currently closer to your Courtesy pricing. You really have to be diligent in your purchases.