LeonV

Should be a really fun engine, although I would have some concerns about detonation with such high compression. You might be ok on 93 octane, depending on your advance curve. Basically, you won't get the engine's entire potential without advance being around 32-35 degrees (empirically determined by dyno testing). The open chamber heads (e.g. N42) tend to be at the higher end of that spectrum. If you have to dial down spark advance because of detonation or preignition, you're losing power. The cam and advance curve have to be really well-matched to the engine in order to take advantage of the high compression. Hopefully you don't run into issues, but don't be surprised if you do. Good luck!

I know, I know, but I don't think my fiancee will be happy! I'm bummed that I'm missing this.

Looks like I overlooked the fact that I'm leaving for vacation on 6/30. I'd love to go but I'd have to miss a day of vacation!

Makes me want to go to AN plumbing on my triples! I'll second the float comment, I finally set mine using Keith's optical gauge this weekend. Front carb was 2mm low, middle was perfect, and rear was 1mm off. I set them correctly, and although the difference in float height was relatively small, the effect it has on driveability is huge. The vacuum signal in the main ciruit is just strong enough to lift the fuel up into the venturi by only a few millimeters so float height is critical.

I wanted to add that you should watch "Love the Beast", Bana's car documentary, but looks like the site locks you out from editing your post pretty quickly. Love the Beast

Eric Bana.

What, no one's ever heard of the Milliken MX-1 (Camber Car)?

Why get a $400 distributor when you can get a $400 crank-trigger ignition system? Unless you're racing and the rules dictate that you must use a distributor, a crank-triggered system would be magnitudes better than any distributor. IMO, either go Pertronix or the 280ZX dizzy for a low-budget electronic ignition system, or crank-trigger if you have $400 to throw at the ignition system. *Megajolt controller not shown This is what my dog, Bo, thinks of distributors:

That's partially true, but only for the 280Z. All 240Z's came with R180s.

Caster angle is also changed, magnitude depending on the severity of the bend.

As long as the bend is "small" and doesn't affect caster.

I know jmortensen did.

Good find, that stuff is great!

I installed ES poly bushings everywhere (rubber on rear of TC rod) in my 260Z a year ago. It took some effort but they feel great. Besides that, I used a generous amount of the supplied grease and have had zero squeaks. The grease is marine-grade and won't dry out, degrade or squeak like the other stuff.

40s are just fine for a street-driven car.

Cam sprocket adjustments are used to correct for timing chain slack, as described in the FSM and other Z manuals. Your thinking is probably correct, if the head was shaved by not shimmed, the cam would be retarded in the 1 position. The cam is advanced by 8 degrees when in the 3 position, compared to the 1 position, which is a lot to correct for just a shaved head. I don't know the exact diameter of the cam sprocket, but if it's assumed to be 4", the head would need to be shaved .280" in order to retard the cam by 8 degrees. You may have had a combination of a shaved head and timing chain that was out of tolerance.

To avoid further confusion, the diff in question is an S12 diff, not S13. The S13 diff is a short nose. Post #4 says that you don't have to do anything to an E31 to bolt it onto an L28, and it backs up what I'm attempting to convey. People mention that you have to put in larger valves to make it work, but that is far from the truth. An E31 won't be any more problematic and costly to use than an N42 or N47, as you proposed. If you already have an E31 and N42 in hand, the differences in using the two are negligible. Altered heads and blocks muddy it up further. I side with your point about just using a stock engine and that is what I'm preaching here, referring to the end of post #4.

Nice! Looks like I'm all set to go, my schedule is clear. I'm assuming Ivan knows about this?

The S12 (Nissan 200SX) Turbo had a 4.11 long-nose R200, which is a bolt in just like any other R200. Any L24/26/28 head is a bolt on on any L24/26/28 block.

Looks like a cool event, I'll try to be there!

Probably the late 260Z at that, I don't believe my early 260 has a cat bump.

Nicely done!

Check the head casting number at the same time. It's located between the #1 and #2 spark plugs, on the bottom of the head. Stock 260Z would be E88 (although stock '72-'73 240Z will be E88 as well).

Not sure what rumor you're talking about. You can put an R200 in any Z, given that you have the correct mounting equipment, i.e. mustache bar and curved rear transverse link bar. This is covered extensively. A stock flat-top L28 block with a stock E31 will have compression in the low 10's and will definitely require high octane fuel. Shave the head and bore the block, and that number goes up. FWIW, the reason that you have trouble with the vac advance of the ZX distributor is because it's designed for an engine with EGR. An engine with EGR needs more advance. Too much advance isn't a good thing and you'll be better off either disconnecting it or running a different vac advance module. The late L28 (F54) came with flat-top pistons, it was the early L28 (N42) that came with dished pistons. One caveat is that turbo blocks (F54) came with dished pistons. You absolutely do not "need" to put in larger valves into an E31 that's going on top of an L28. It gets "recommended" a lot but is not a necessity. This is not a race engine build. Keep in mind that bigger valves, especially on a head with a small combustion chamber, will be more shrouded than smaller ones. This has potential for negative effects unless dealt with. A good build goes much further than a parts list. The only specification you mentioned is "it's just for street". In that case, I'd recommend a stock L24/26/28 with triples, open exhaust, 3.9 (or numerically higher) R200 and late ZX 5-speed. The diff and trans wake up the car way more than a mild engine build. Pertinent information is plentiful and oft discussed, spend at least a few months on reading and planning to make sure you know what you really want. For example, DatsunZgarage.com can get you started with the basics, but don't take everything you read as gospel.

Well then whoever that was is not very well informed. I use lithium grease (Shin Etsu) on all my weatherstripping, it keeps the rubber "fresh".