LeonV

The absolute best you can do in terms of intake design is a straight shot into the valve, especially for a wet runner design such as any carburated manifold. *These images are not mine.

You have a 280Z, and hence, electronic ignition. There is no need for the Pertronix unit. Not sure what you mean with the "timing accuracy" statement. That can be checked with a timing gun. The only real upgrade you can make is going to a programmable, crank-triggered system, such as EDIS. That can be controlled by something like Megasquirt or Megajolt. My EDIS system cost me around $400, best money I've ever spent on the ignition system. If you don't want to commit to that, just make sure your current system is in good order.

Backspacing is what's critical in clearing struts. Offset will affect wheel bearing loading. Ideally, you want the center of your contact patch to be between the inner and outer wheel bearings. Otherwise, you'll be putting a cantilevered load on the bearings and wearing them out faster.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57565-rota-rbrb-r-4x1143-17-z-offset-wheels/

HybridZ has all the info you need. Make sure to take full advantage of the search feature. There are 17" wheels available from Rota specifically spec'd for the Z that fit your goals. Offset simply describes the location of the mounting surface of the wheel to the center of the wheel. A negative offset means that the mounting surface is moved away from the face of the wheel and a positive offset moves the mounting surface towards the face of the wheel.

If you're having trouble with fouling plugs on your 280Z, something is wrong with your car.

Ok. That's not a good thing. It "works", but it doesn't mean there isn't something better...

Cool, I'm thinking I could pick one up and check it with an indicator using the EDM table at work.

I'm thinking the same thing.

Good idea!

Looks like 903 Blue: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

Today, saw a beautiful 905 Red 240Z on 101S around 1045am. I've seen that Z before, well done.

Ok, I'll play. Yesterday, burgundy 280ZX (with T-tops?) driving on Caulfield leaving Lakeville around 530pm.

This is my first thought as well. Make sure your gland nuts are tight and show a thread or two. The gland nut should not be snug with the top of the strut tube. A loose or improperly tightened gland nut would mean your insert is bouncing around the strut housing, hence the click.

Check/tighten ALL driveshaft and halfshaft nuts.

Inspect/Replace/Repair: - All fluids - Entire braking system - Cooling and oiling systems - Clutch hydraulics - Fuel filters - Throttle return springs - Valve adjustment - Carb sync - Ignition timing - Headlights, tail lights, brake lights, turn signals etc... Good luck and enjoy!

I got my fusible links from MSA.

Pascal's Law...

Hey, the Oregoners see more than we do, apparently!

I'll get back to you after I go to Keith's place to play with his new stuff, luckily he's local so we can try a few things without having to ship anything. I've been really busy with my EDIS install lately, but I plan to go to his place in the next few weeks hopefully.

FWIW, Keith Franck's Hypojets have 4 selectable air-bleeds. This makes it into an adjustable idle jet, 4-in-1.

I have pictures and an explanation of different pinions and housings in my HybridZ build thread. You might need a log-in to see the pics.

Wow... this thread is almost 10 years old. The firing order for any inline-6 is 153624.

Hence the term, "unlikely". The head gasket is most likely to pop in the thinnest spot which sees the most heat, i.e. in between cylinders. That doesn't mean it happens there every time, it could've blown at a water jacket interface but that is less likely to happen.

I speak of installation. Had to use long needle-nose pliers to even get to the clevis and cotter pin. Very little space to reach the fasteners on the interior side as well.