LeonV

I'd diagnose the problem and make sure it's the diff before doing anything else. In the meantime, you can swap the LSD unit out of the 4.11 into the 3.9 as long as they're both R200 diffs. If not, you may also encounter some issues when swapping (different mustache bar). Direzza Z1SS? Those would be nice tires. I'm sure they'll hook up fine, especially in 2nd and 3rd, no matter if your diff is a 4.11 or 3.7. Set the Illuminas to "1". If that doesn't help, I'd just go to coilovers which will have more travel (if properly sectioned) and they'd allow you to choose your spring rate while making it much easier to swap between stiffer and softer springs. I'm surprised that car doesn't have coilovers already, or does it?

Unlikely, compression was even.

Have fun with the clutch master, *maniacal laugh*.

What's the rear tire width and compound?

Very nice! I'd want to keep the 4.11 since it sounds like it's an LSD. What's wrong with the diff? I suppose you could always move the LSD unit to another diff if this one is toast, but the 4.11 would pair very nicely with a late ZX 5-speed.

Fired up the Z on EDIS for the first time last night. Hopefully, should be up and running on Megajolt by tomorrow.

Precisely!

Too restrictive for best performance. However, if you don't care, then go for it. My stock-cammed L24 has dual 2" pipes.

A full rebuild may require things like throttle bushings/bearings, power valves, and other hard-to-get parts. A typical cheap-o rebuild "kit" will probably have a few gaskets, o-rings and needle valve. However, I'm not too familiar with flat-top rebuilds so someone who's done it would be more informative. The 32/36 DGV is a "progressive" carb. The 32 is the main venturi diameter and 36 is the secondary venturi diameter, in mm. The DGV feeds the engine with the 32mm venturi until enough demand opens up the 36. They are also downdraft carbs, not desirable in an inline engine configuration. I'd prefer a good set of flat-tops to DGVs, hands down.

This has been discussed countless times. Those that wish to perpetuate the myth are ignorant of the facts. Discussions about the Earth being flat went on for quite a while, doesn't mean they were anywhere close to being right. Hopefully, this thread can properly inform the "you-need-backpressure" crowd.

Are the Webers DCOE (sidedraft) or DGV (downdraft)? If DCOE, then use the Webers. If DGV, then don't even think about it. Otherwise, I'd say flat-tops but good luck getting a complete rebuild kit. Sourcing a good set of round tops would be the other option.

Nope, not true. IF the 2.25" is limiting you, the 2.5" will be better in ALL aspects. If the 2.25" is not limiting you, and it probably wouldn't on a stock-ish L24, then a 2.5" will not hurt nor help. It'll just take away some ground clearance.

Nice! My advice is to read up as much as humanly possible, and then read some more. Download the FSM at xenons30.com and make sure everything is in order (fluids, brakes, cooling, fueling, ignition, etc.).

Welcome! You're very fortunate to have a Z as nice as this one for a first car, just be sure to take good care of it. Better ask the PO what the switches are for, they're not stock. What's the backstory of acquiring it and what made you get a 240Z as a first car?

I have plenty of fun in my L24-powered, drum-braked Z...

I don't know about the Pathfinder, but that's not how the Z PCV system is designed to operate. The spring (we're talking Z's) holds the valve closed. At a certain vacuum, it opens, as determined by the spring constant. The higher the vacuum, the more it opens, hence "variable orifice". Keeping the vacuum side of the PCV at atmospheric pressure is the same as WOT, no flow. Have you tried blowing through both sides of a Z PCV? From the '72 240Z FSM:

I was 5 and in Russia...

This would possibly be true only if the PCV valve were open.

I don't think you followed my last post. You said you have a PCV valve installed. Since it is not connected to manifold vacuum, the PCV valve is closed and will not let the crankcase vent. If you remove your PCV valve and run a hose directly from the crankcase to the vented catch can, you will be fine.

That would be an AMC Pacer...

A-ha! You have a PCV valve but no connection to the intake! This means that the PCV valve never sees vacuum and thus never opens. Therefore. your crankcase is not adequately vented. The PCV valve is designed to open with vacuum pulling on it (light-throttle conditions) and close at atmospheric (WOT conditions). Without a connection to the intake, all the valve sees is atmospheric pressure. I suggest ditching the PCV valve altogether and simply venting the crankcase through that catch can. This is the typical (but not optimal) setup for anyone running triple carbs.

I'm with Zed. Looks like excessive condensation in the crankcase from not running the car to full temp many times over (lots of short trips).

I should have said, "the consequences of your actions are normal", i.e. hotter exhaust temps with retarded timing and hotter engine with advanced timing. Running 200 degrees is not normal, unless you're using a 200 degree thermostat. Did you flush your cooling system and make sure that the coolant level is adequate? Is the thermostat a Nissan unit? Waitaminute, you didn't loop your heater hoses, did you? The SUs are cores at this point, ZT values cores at $150. They will not ever run right with leaky shafts.

I'll be going to Keith Franck's place pretty soon to tune the Z with his new idle jets and e-tubes. Luckily enough, he's local to me. I'll post up after doing so. Sounds like a pretty good idea though, although I currently don't have much of a jet selection to send out.

Retarded timing and/or a RICH mixture will both raise exhaust gas temperatures. With timing advanced enough to reach MBT (Max Brake Torque), you will be generating more heat in the cylinder since you will be generating the highest peak cylinder pressures. I think everything you see is normal. I'd change the water pump if you don't have any history on it, same goes for the thermostat. You are robbing some power and fuel efficiency by retarding timing, although you're probably only a few degrees off. Aim for about 33-36 degrees at 3000rpm, depending on what piston/head combo you have. Also sounds like your SUs are dead. They will not function properly with a throttle shaft leak.