LeonV

I can't agree more, I was honestly disgusted by the direction BMW took afterwards with Bangle's stuff. I can appreciate a nice E46 M3 but would never own one, as it's a huge money pit, relatively speaking. With that said, the E36 and prior generations are great. They really are driver's cars, and feel fantastic on the open road. BMW had the feel of every switch, button, latch and steering wheel down perfectly. It does seem like every single one develops electrical glitches, especially in the window switches, and the cooling systems always seemed to be lacking especially on the E36 and later cars. A friend of mine has an E36 M3 and another recently sold his E30 M3. What a car! Beautiful, nimble, and very advanced for it's time. I was recently shopping for a new-to-me car and had it down to two, the E36 M Coupe or Honda S2000. The M Coupe is gorgeous (in my eyes), torquey and handles great, but I ultimately went with the S2000 mainly because of reliability/maintenance concerns. I have enough Z-cars to mess around with, I don't need my DD breaking down or needing excessive/expensive maintenance! I feel that the S2000 is similar to the 240Z, lightweight, bulletproof drivetrain, long hood and seating position by the rear axle. Sorry for that tangent but I'm betting that quite a few Z owners have/had an S2000 as well!

You're in luck! I was just browsing a site yesterday when I came upon some: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt/pd2118870/REPLACEMENT_SEAT_BRACKETS_

It may be the angle of the photo, although flares and wider wheels would help. Put up some more front shots, E!

Seems like he screwed up the timing adjustment. There is no difference between 89 and 91, unless you get pinging with 89! Otherwise, there is zero difference in power. I switched to 89 from 91 on my L24 a while ago, just as an experiment. I've heard no pinging and felt no loss in performance. The only difference is that 89 will be more prone to "dieseling" after a hard run on a hot day.

FWIW, it's the larger intake valves that may require clearancing the block, not the exhaust valves. You're lucky in that there was no interference with your block, although the valves seem to clearance themselves when there is slight interference. Larger intake valves will be more shrouded on an L24 than L28.

Wow, that is just beautiful! I want those seats!

That's awesome, gotta love triples! It's good to hear that your problem is finally alleviated, as I've thought it was a lean mixture issue from the moment your problems appeared. Never use PTFE tape on fuel fittings! It will break down and eventually cause a leak without you knowing. The 1000rpm idle is fine. Progression holes are what really determine idle speed (along with static timing), since correct transition circuit operation is dependent upon initial throttle position. If your throttle plates are oriented correctly, I wouldn't touch a thing. For syncronization, as you saw, the Weber SK tool is head and shoulders above the Unisyn. I'd never even try to use a Unisyn on a set of triples, let alone dual SUs! You should be able to fit te SK just fine with the air horns removed. Intake velocity does not drop to zero unless your engine isn't spinning. You should be able to floor the throttles in high gear and low rpm and have your car lug, but not shut off. This is discussed in Keith Franck's "White Paper" for tuning the Weber DCOE, in the Sidedraft Central "Files" section. You can eliminate all stumbles as well if you read and follow along! Oh, and video or it never happened.

Go to the last page of that thread, looks like there will be another batch soon.

A whirring noise that stops when you push in the clutch is probably an input or countershaft bearing. The 280Z 5-speed in my Z does the same thing, as does my S2000. You'll hear a lot of things in a car with little to no sound insulation.

Impressive! Looks like quality work, keep it up.

In stainless: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78709-stainless-gas-tank-straps-for-240z/

Yep. I got a crank trigger wheel and sensor mount for $150, EDIS module, coil pack and VR sensor for $50, the Megajolt controller for $175, and assorted wiring/relays add up to about $25. So yes, crank triggered ignition for $400 is easily possible. With that said, it's possible to get the EDIS parts, trigger wheel, and sensor mount much cheaper if you do some fab work yourself. I bought everything ready to go since I didn't have the time to trawl junkyards and fab custom parts. Meaning you can have crank triggered ignition for $250-300. I was ready to go to a ZX distributor until I realized this.

Jeebus! You can have a fully-programmable crank-triggered ignition system for the amount and ditch the distributor altogether. That is what I'm in the process of doing on my 260Z.

Awesome show, and they somehow manage to draw an audience outside of automotive enthusiasts. Ten thumbs up!!!

Good stuff, I hope to get to that point someday. Nice job Dave!

I think the phrase your looking for is power/weight ratio, since weight has no bearing on horsepower. But yes, you are right in that the weight increase is the big reason for increasing displacement and hence, power. I'm not very knowledgable on the specific case of the MGB, but power rating standards in general were a bit muddy in the mid-70s. The key is comparing apples to apples, regarding net and gross SAE power ratings. This is analogous to comparing new EPA mpg numbers to the old (inflated) ones. The difference in the MGB's rated power could very well have been just on paper.

A WBO2 will work on any engine, whether it's a V-Twin or a V12. Tune one cylinder and mimic the jetting on the second one (or third, or 4th), it's not difficult. Like I said, you don't need a bung at all, there are clamps available that shove the O2 sensor down the exhaust pipe. Then, all you need are power and ground connections, also not difficult.

The 280Z had more power than both the 260Z and 240Z. The way power was rated varied over the years. The displacement increase was mostly due to increasing weight rather than emissions requirements.

It would be 110 Red, same as my 260Z. Ref: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

First off, thanks for posting your engine plate! Some people don't want to believe that the L26 had more power than the L24. But back on topic... As far as suspension parts go, not exactly. As I've learned from experience, the early 260Z is a very peculiar model in the Z-car line. The suspension is mostly 240Z, except for the front struts and steering rack. I have a thread here detailing some differences, with Dave's help. As far as the rack goes, the 240Z rack bushings will not work, they are too narrow as I recall. 280Z rack bushings are the correct ones for both the early and late 260Z. As far as I remember, the rest of the suspension should be very similar to late 240Zs. Let me know if you have any questions about your Z, I've really enjoyed getting to know my early 260!

We've had this discussion recently. There is no "flaming", just a logically presented argument. There is no need to take it personally. My WBO2 (14point7 Pure Plus) cost around $200 when I bought it 2 years ago, and the DIY version is under $200. They're probably a bit more expensive now, but there are others in that price range as well. Saving for a WB is easily justifiable when you consider the gains to be made from it. You can buy an exhaust adapter as well if you want to move it to your motorcycle, no bung needed. With that said, bungs aren't much of an expense anyway, plug them with a threaded plug when not in use and you're done. BTW, there is no age requirement to understanding and being able to tune carbs. Okay, you do have to be old enough to be able to turn a screwdriver and comprehend what you're doing. I'm probably not that much older than you. Saying that the colortune won't give you a complete tune is an understatement. It isn't really giving you any tune at all, just getting your idle mixture "close". I don't know about you, but my engine spends a lot more time under load than idling. That's a waste of $60, IMO. Like I've said, it's a novelty and if you think it's cool, by all means have at it. I think it's pretty cool to be able to essentially look into your combustion chamber. However, these days there is no good reason to recommended it for any serious tuning purposes.

The Colortune is an antiquated tool, made obsolete by affordable wideband O2 systems. A Colortune may help in getting your idle mixture close, but that's about all you can accomplish with it. I can accomplish essentially the same result, just using my ears. Save your money and get a WBO2, you'll never look back. Knowing what your mixture is at any rpm and any load is enormously helpful information to have. It doesn't matter whether you're a novice or a pro, it's flat out a far more useful tool.

Nice, Julio! It's always fun to take the ol' Z out on the open road every once in a while. I drove the Z to my fiancee's cousin's house on Sunday. Her 8-year-old cousin wanted a ride, and I quickly obliged! The Saturday prior, I helped install an intake for the dad of the 8-year-old cousin and of course included her in the process. She helped me remove a hose clamp and installed a new license plate frame. Her dad has a Mazdaspeed3 so she already loves going out on rides. Also, Top Gear is one of her favorite shows. Brainwashing at its finest, mwahahaha!

Yes!

It's EFI...