Zedyone_kenobi

Way to go Steve!! that just looks Sexy!

I really LOVE BAT and when and if I ever sell my Silver Z, it will go to BAT first. There is a far more serious air about that place. Not as many low ballers troll there. Many good cars get sold on BAT.

Lower the car really low is not really a plan. More of an action. First I would recommend you decide how you are going to use the car. Daily driver or weekend car? How much can you spend on monthly maintenance? It sounds like you need something different than an S30. Which does not like to be too low .

Mike my fathers health is failing so quickly I cannot make promises, but I would love to drive to San Antonio in my z to meet all of you fine folks

I found ones online that have 40 DCOE 2 Stamped on them

Where do I find the 18 or 151 number.

I think its brilliant! Very good thinking and using what you got. Here is the question, are there any performance gains from this?

It does not HAVE to be webers, but I like the availability of them. I also like how they use the stock throttle rod mechanicals to actuate the carbs. I do not want to run a cable. Also, they still MAKE webers. Mikunis are out of production and I am left looking for older refurbished parts. Seems in the long run that might be an issue. But maybe not. I know Datsun chose Mikuni for other markets, so there is that. The fact that I can buy them new (which now I find out may not be a good thing) and that there are so many more parts still in production for the Webers make me go that way. I do not see any advantage to picking the Mikunis, in price, or performance, or installation, or availability. What am I missing. I have seen the work Wolf Creek does and it is spectacular No doubt. But why go Mikuni over weber. NO thread I have researched showed any measurable way one is better than the other. So I went off intangibles.

http://www.redlineweber.com/ I am contemplating building another L24 for my Z, and wanted to try triples. However, many vendors sells the kit for the Datsun 240Z conversion. MSA, REdline, Peircemanifolds, and may be others. Anybody have any recommendations on which vendor to purchase from.

THIS IS THE REASON THIS IS THE WRONG CAR! When things go hokey, AND THEY WILL, you will not be able to use any service manuals to get a baseline. It is all custom part swapped together. A person with experience with these engines can probably figure it out. Be prepared to spend a lot of money paying a mechanic to 'figure out' what is wrong.

IN all fairness, that motor does not sound great at all. The external blowoff valve is gimmicky and entirely not necessary it could vent to the downpipe and function identically but that costs more money. Tuning for that engine is NOT, let me say that again, NOT going to be easy. Having an engine run is not the same as having it tuned. Granted it may be the camera making it sound like it has a terribly adjusted valve train. I wish you luck, but this is going to be an enormous money pit. You are buying a car that will have Zero baseline tune. You have no manual to go off of to trouble shoot problems. If you go get it, and I do not think you should, since you are clearly infatuated with the motor and nothing else (you have not mentioned the condition of the tires, brakes, hoses, radiator, etc), then install a wideband O2 sensor to see what you are running. I would also install an EGT gage so you can see if you are on the verge of melting a piston. I come from the tuner world of Subaru WRX's and STI's, and the tune is the life blood of your engine. Get it wrong, and you will have many bad things happen very quickly. I will say again, in earnest. This is the right car for somebody, but I do not think it is the car for you. The learning curve is too steep and I am afraid it will lead to discouragement.

OH my dear lord. Next to yours mind looks like a garbage truck!!!!

Beer man, when I wanted to rebuild mine last year, Fastwoman mentioned that the Nissan dealerships not longer stocked those kits, in fact, they had not even heard of the rebuild kit, but I would call courtesy anyway. Keep in mind Advance Auto has brake boosters for 98 bucks....with a core. I installed one and it is working wonderfully.

Okay hold up right there. I am going to echo the rest of the statements here. You are envisioning a super fast street car roaring around town, but what is being sold is a parts bin car. It has been pieced together. How does it have 80 miles on it if it is not together yet? Did he remove parts from it? Upping the pressure by 100% is no something you can take lightly. You will need better engine management, better fuel systems, better fuel pump, better cooling. Assuming you know how to tune everything AND everything is working well enough to be tuned, you will still need to upgrade the rest of the 30 year old car to handle 300HP, like bushings, bearings, mounts, suspension, brakes, steering, electrical, etc. What you see in your head is awesome! Never lose sight of that dream. But what the veterans and myself are telling you is that what is separating you from your dream is about 3000 more dollars at least on top of the car. It is far better to find a mostly stock 280Z running and driving and enjoy it. You can drive it while you improve it and relive all those memories you and your mom had in a car that will start and drive every day. The more stock a car is the more the people on this forum can help you. With untold modifications you are often in left field where to start diagnosing every single ailment the car has. OEM is better for a beginner. Once you have the car running and stock, you and your son can get to modifying it together one day. Find a reliable driver and start to freshen her up as your money allows.

just amazing how fast you guys work! I am jealous!

Curse your great memory!

off topic, but I wish I would have bought the ducted spook!

thanks, that is all I needed to know, I get that done easy enough!

You can see the metal through my grill and it is some black due to undercoating overspray, and some 901 silver. What color should that be?

BRE sells a slick new trailer... not sure if it is open or closed.

this came to mind immediately.. http://bringatrailer.com/2012/01/11/1971-datsun-240z-starting-point/

Correct, a spring like the damper spring has MANY coils so the delta movement linearly of each coil is VERY small thus keeping the spring constant practically uniform through the small rise length. What I am hoping is Z therapy knows what they put into my carbs and then upping it a bit. If they do not know,well then I could order a couple of sets and do a side by side measurement myself easy enough using a kitchen scale that reads grams. As long as the initial length is long enough, the numbers need not match any table, as long as they are comparable to one another, I can choose the stiffer of the two.

An automatic Z with cracked dash, shaky front end (read as totaled), torn seats and rust, should NOT cost 2800 dollars. Run AWAY! Keep looking and saving your money. Do not settle for what you almost wanted. Keep looking. It took me a year and a plane ticket to North Carolina to buy my Z and bring it back to Houston!

Yup, but I have had a really hard time getting through to Steve. I have talked to Bruce twice, and he suggested I call the shop, but the shop must be swamped with work. I cannot get any feedback

I will try to crop my video short enough to post! I agree, this thread will live on for years hopefully helping others with this problem as well. I am making a definitive 'WHAT I HAVE DONE LIST' for the next guy. Maybe I will write it as a sticky.