Has anybody ordered from Redline to get their webers?

[Zedyone_kenobi]

http://www.redlineweber.com/

I am contemplating building another L24 for my Z, and wanted to try triples.

However, many vendors sells the kit for the Datsun 240Z conversion. MSA, REdline, Peircemanifolds, and may be others.

Anybody have any recommendations on which vendor to purchase from.

[pjoe]

I'd call Dave Rebello. Got mine from him and he is super helpfull when setting them up. They will come ready to install on engine for not much more than other places sell kits for...which you have to assemble. Think it took a month or so to get from him. The little bit extra money is well worth it to be able to talk to Dave about them if you have problems.

Brian

[LeonV]

I would find a used set, if you're going with 40DCOE carbs. The reason for this is that the older 40DCOE 18 has proper progression hole placement, unlike the new 40DCOE 151. You will need to drill a new progression hole in the 151s in order to have proper carb operation. I'm sure people with the 151s have been masking the transition bog issue (dreaded flat-spot) with an overly rich idle mixture, but drilling a new hole is best. Otherwise, a set of 40PHH Mikunis would be just as good, for you purposes.

FWIW, I bought a complete used set of triple Webers for $600 a couple of years ago. I bolted them on last year and haven't touched them since. You can find similar deals if you look around and wait long enough. Webers are really easy to set up, once you understand what's going on.

For those interested in learning more than you wanted to know about Weber DCOE carburetors, join the Sidedraft Central Yahoo group and browse the library there.

[surfer.tech]

Does it have to be Webers? Wolf Creek Racing has 40 Mikunis (refurbished), or you can try SK 40 carbs(new).

[Travel'n Man]

Dave Rebello is a great resource for any engine or fuel question. He was very supportive when I purchased my head from him. It never seemed that I was bothering him if I needed to call to ask him a question on the installation or when we were determining my needs for the head - porting and cam work. It would be worth a call just to see what he has, or his thought process based on your needs. You may be able to buy the triples from Wolf Creek - send to Dave for tuning and porting, and then roll to you for installation. IF you go with a shortened Mikuni intake it gets a little tricky bolting those bad boys up due to not having enough room for the studs (it's kinda tight).

[Zedyone_kenobi]

It does not HAVE to be webers, but I like the availability of them. I also like how they use the stock throttle rod mechanicals to actuate the carbs. I do not want to run a cable. Also, they still MAKE webers. Mikunis are out of production and I am left looking for older refurbished parts. Seems in the long run that might be an issue. But maybe not. I know Datsun chose Mikuni for other markets, so there is that.

The fact that I can buy them new (which now I find out may not be a good thing) and that there are so many more parts still in production for the Webers make me go that way. I do not see any advantage to picking the Mikunis, in price, or performance, or installation, or availability.

What am I missing. I have seen the work Wolf Creek does and it is spectacular No doubt. But why go Mikuni over weber. NO thread I have researched showed any measurable way one is better than the other. So I went off intangibles.

[LeonV]

It does not HAVE to be webers, but I like the availability of them. I also like how they use the stock throttle rod mechanicals to actuate the carbs. I do not want to run a cable. Also, they still MAKE webers. Mikunis are out of production and I am left looking for older refurbished parts. Seems in the long run that might be an issue. But maybe not. I know Datsun chose Mikuni for other markets, so there is that.

The fact that I can buy them new (which now I find out may not be a good thing) and that there are so many more parts still in production for the Webers make me go that way. I do not see any advantage to picking the Mikunis, in price, or performance, or installation, or availability.

What am I missing. I have seen the work Wolf Creek does and it is spectacular No doubt. But why go Mikuni over weber. NO thread I have researched showed any measurable way one is better than the other. So I went off intangibles.

Your reasoning is sound.

In my experience and opinion, I would actually go with Webers instead of Mikunis, partly because of some of the points you mention. You can find Weber parts from multiple vendors, so you probably wouldn't have much of an issue even if you had to rebuild a DCOE.

The other reason lies in the developments of retired Lawrence Berkeley NL engineer Keith Franck, of Sidedraft Central, who has been reverse-engineering the DCOE carburetor for 10 years! Through his research, he has developed superior idle-jets and is almost done with his long-awaited new emulsion tube. These new parts make Weber's own idle-jets, and e-tubes obsolete. Therefore, the Weber DCOE is still being developed, while progress on other carbs was halted decades ago. I'm looking forward to Keith's new e-tube, as it is finally supposed to function as it theoretically should. I'm looking forward to my Webers behaving like an EFI car, and getting decent mpg as well.

If I were you, I'd find a nice set of used Webers, but you are free to do as you wish!

[30 Ounce]

Mikuni's have 4 progression holes and don't have the bog issues that Webers have with only 2. That can be addressed as mentioned above.

[LeonV]

Most DCOE Webers have 3 progression holes. The older, Italian-made DCOE has the holes in the right spot and need no alteration whatsoever.

FYI,

Leon

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Where do I find the 18 or 151 number.

[Mike W]

Zedy,

You will find the -18 or -151 number right after the general part number (ie 40 DCOE - which is stamped on the top part of the carb near the front.

Also, I had been running a set of -18's for years (and never quite got them tuned correctly until very recently), and in the process decided to rebuild the ones that I had. Turns out that I ended up purchasing a new set of -151's instead of rebuilding my old ones immediately, although I do plan to do that over time so I can refresh the set that I originally purchased back in the late seventies. Also, the -18's were made in Italy, but production moved to Spain many years ago and so the -151's are made there today.

I will also tell you that the jetting between the two is very different. When I installed the new -151's I started with the jetting that finally worked for me on the -18's and I ended up having to make some adjustments (especially to the idle jet setting) to get the new ones to run like my old ones did.

For reference, I purchased these from Pierce Manifolds and had a very positive buying experience. I believe that they get them directly from Redline, so they are an real authorized distributor. They also had the best selection of other Weber accessories (like the shock mounts) and because these were being shipped directly to me from their distributor, they agreed to throw in the jets that I needed that were different from the factory jetting. They did that for free.

Finally, I have been reading about all of the SU issues that you have been having with popping at mid - high RPM's and so understand why you are considering this change. For what it may be worth, I do have the spare set of -18's, which just came off my car and presently not in use, and so if you could find a manifold I would be willing to loan these to you so you could try them out before buying. I have a spare linkage and so you would only need the manifold. Although they look a little rough and I do believe they will need rebuilding, when they came off my car a few months ago and were running the best they ever had. I live in Austin, so the distance would not be all that great. Give it a thought and let me know if you are interested.

Also, you planning to go to NISMO fest in San Antonio in April?

Mike.

[LeonV]

Where do I find the 18 or 151 number.

It's stamped on the front part of the float cover.

Found this online: