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brentz

73 240 Resto Started

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15 years in the garage and she is now ready for the total makeover. Delivered to the body/paint shop 2 weeks ago after totally stripping the interior out as well as drivetrain/engine. This was a pretty nice 73 example, white with red interior. It is going to be black with a red interior. I will post progress because I think you will like the result.

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Brent -

Welcome to the site (member since 2003 with only 1 post)! You've had plenty of time to get your research done. What are you doing with the engine and so forth?

Looks like you are starting the quest.................

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I know what you are going through, mine sat in the back room of the garage for 26 years, with a newly rebuilt engine with 96 miles on it. :)

What would the VIN happen to be?

Bonzi Lon

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Yes...I have been lurking for quite some time! top end of engine has already been rebuilt. Sent the bottom end to the machine shop to be cleaned up and dimensionally checked. Don't plan on doing anything major with the engine. Of course it has the non-73 SUs so it will run decent. Suspension has been totally rebuilt with new bushings (poly). Wife will be glad to see it do something besides sit in the corner! (As will I)

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VIN is HLS30-82963...4spd manual. Had dealer-added AC...will try aftermarket when i get to that point!

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If it is a 73, it appears you are missing a digit in the above number. Might want to look again, dash plaque or engraved above the brake booster.

Bonzi Lon

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I'm only about a month ahead of you with my '73's restoration. Bolted to the roti on October 17th and the restoration shop will have it sealed with epoxy by the end of this month, ready to be sprayed and back to my by Christmas. Suspension bits are being stripped and powder coated now, all hardware removed is being cleaned and plated, which reminds me I need to send the bumpers out to be re-chromed. Motor is at the engine shop as well...supposedly only has 24,000 miles so we're hopefull it only needs rings and bearings...head is going to be an e31 with 280 valves, mild street cam, Stahl header. Interior was all near perfect, somewhat validating the low mileage claim and the body guy found nothing significant in the rust department. Since misery loves company feel free to email me and I will be happy to share some of my experiences with vendors around restoration parts. One in particular has been EXTREMELY helpful with respect to plating and providing things like perfect clamps, NOS and never been used SU's, decals and so forth.

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You are correct...it is actually HLS30-160400 and the engine number is L24-172010....MFR on 5/73. I had an original warranty booklet that had some stuff written in it, and it looked like what they wrote down for the VIN was bogus in there.

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Ollie...I appreciate your pain for sure. My car has 131,000 original miles on it. I really look forward to putting the rust monster to bed for quite a while with this treatment. There were a few small rust holes on the driverside floorpan, minor pitting in the usual places, but nothing a little new metal and POR15 can't shape up. Plan on putting a thinned-down bed-liner material, black, in the engine bay as well as coating the whole underside with it. The restorer has done this before on other vehicles and reports a very nice result. You engine will sound very nice for sure. I am thinking about good wheels as well as perhaps a set of Ztherapy SUs...will have to see.

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I'm spending the extra to port and polish the head as well...stock block and I know people say go L28 but I'm wanting this to stay somewhat original.

All the crappy spot welds are being fixed and sealed and we're likely not using any undercoat at all. No rust per se has popped up but I know he was going to drill out the trapezoid "reinforcement" patch on the inner to see what is going on underneath since this is a hot bed for rust. This car will be a show / occasional driver and will be stored in a heated environment. The underside of my car is simply going to be original 918 orange in a "more duarable" finsih than the 2 stage Dupont on the body.

All the emissions stuff is history with a new balance tube as well. I used Vintage Rubber for any seals which seemed iffy and have been spending a small fortune on things like bumper rubber.

Good luck with the restoration, sounds like it will be awesome in black on red...my buddy's '66' Vette he put $80K into the restoration is that same combination and it looks amazing.

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It's a good idea to look under that patch. The patches are pretty flimsy..I saw some rust penetration on mine, so my resto man cleaned it up and welded on new patches. Great idea to ditch the emission plumbing. I followed the same path. Balance and intake is from an "older SU" car. Any ideas for wheels? Looking not to lower or offset, but want to keep the speedo fairly accurate.

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I have a set of 16" panasports in gun metal grey with a chrome lip and they look great however if given the choice again I'd go 15" to avoid the speedo being thrown off. This I'd probably an easy fix but I don't care that much. I also have the originals in excellent shape for kicks. For me silver panasports are it for a 240z.

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Ollie..I took a look at the panasports and definitely like the look. With a black Z-car, I think the graphite or gun-metal grey in the middle and with the chrome on the outside is the bomb. Thanks for the suggestions!

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We are down to blocking out the imperfections in the body work. If you see the small patches left on the primer work, they are the small indentations that need to be filled and smoothed out. Also, some shots of the stripped headlight housings.

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Well it has been over a month since my last update. The longest part of the body work is complete..that is straghtening out the bumps and dimples in the body. After three rounds of blocking, filling, sanding, and re-shooting with primer, we have a winner. I have included a few pictures showing where the body imperfections are obvious after block sanding.

This last step included sanding the engine bay, underneath the car and then treating bare metal with POR15 on the bottom side. This included special tools to run a flexible spray head down each of the frame-rails and coating (drenching) the inside of the rails with POR15, along with the floor pans, and wheel wells. All seams, including those in the bottom of the doors were coated with POR15.

Next step was to coat the inside roof, firewall, and transmission tunnel with Lizard Skin, which I am told is a ceramic-based thermal protectant designed to keep the temperature levels in the cabin reduced. Lastly, a thinnned-down coat of bed-liner material was sprayed in the engine bay, underneath all exposed surfaces on the bottom of the car, wheel wells, and inside the cabin of the car. I have attached a picture of how it looks. Really makes for a nice tough, fluid-resistant finish all around.

If the temperature can get a bit warmer here in Alabama, (20F tonight!) we will get on with the exterior paint....Black!

Can see the end of the tunnel for the body work...now time to kick the machine shop in the pants to get my engine back.

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Great looking project! That body must be arrow straight for you to go with black. Looking forward to the next installment on your project. Good luck!

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Here is the main body with 2 out of 3 stages finished. The hood, doors, and hatch will be individually done next week. Color is Dupont Jet Black.

I'm getting happy now!

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Wow looks great, mine is nearing paint now, I think I should have the shell back by the end of Feb which works well on my side. Congrats with the progress, mine is still in high build primer but we're getting closer!

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Looking good Brent!! I'm right there with you and Ollie on the resto with my early 260Z. Mine is still on the rotisserie, with Nissan Monterey Blue (370Z color) inside and out...

Keep us posted!!

Tom

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Tom, Grantf, Ollie...It's pretty exciting when it finally starts to look like you envisioned! After 15 years there is so much angst wrapped up in the project I don't think I will have a worthy place to park it. My body man, Darrin, suggested I build a new separate garage to park it in...haha.

Love the Monterey Blue...great look!

I just ordered rubber seal kit from MSA and the ship date keeps pushing out. How has your experience been on replacing rubber seals?

Brent

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For seal, I went with the vintage rubber kit at around $600. Then I ordered the remaining seals from msa, all but one of the headlight seals was available. If you went with a kit that's probably what the hold up is. In my case most of my seals were in amazingly great shape so I can pick and choose which fit best.

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It's been very exciting and a challenge as well.. Everything I try to put back on the car isn't nice enough or clean enough to go with the fresh paint. It's really enhancing my OCD!!

As far as parts go, I'm really lucky with the parts department at Lithia Nissan here in Medford.. I've developed a great relationship with the guys at the counter down there. They're great about looking up parts for me and tracking down the hard to get items. Most of my seals are OEM I think save just a few pieces.. I bought Kia Sportage weather stripping for the doors and either the windshield or hatch glass moulding is aftermarket... I'm amazed by the variety of parts still available from Nissan. It's a bit of a distance from Alabama but I'm happy to put you in touch with them if you like, just send a PM..

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Tom,

Rubber seals arrived this weekend thankfully. So new emblems and seals are now at the body shop, ready for installation after painting is finished. Looks like the painting should be finished up this week.

My next little sub-project is what to do with the bumpers. They didn't look too bad before, but now, I am not so shure.

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