Zedyone_kenobi

I took that off my 71. I think all it was for was noise suppression. Car runs the same without it.

You know this is crazy guys right! I am about to replace the entire induction system, entire ignition system, and entire engine to fix this. And it is at least remotely possible that this may still happen. I am not sure if I want to laugh hysterically or cry!!!!! Hahaha

What year car?

Not sure. Even when I was running 9:1 at idle when the car barely idled it still leaned up at part throttle until it popped. Keep in mind guys you never pull more vacuum than you do at idle. At part throttle you are about at 7 in of vacuum. But at idle you are approaching 19 in.

I scooted the sm needles further in and the car barely idled it was so rich then it leaned out again and popped. I also verified my coil is getting 13+ volts during engine run

It is funny you have that webpage mentioned Carl. I have that page copied and pasted into my Datsun Journal for such a reference. I am willing to bet I can bend a stock shifter into that shape. If not, I can have one made. But worst case, is I will notch out my tranny tunnel. now that I have decided to go L28, I am opening the flood gates to build the Z car I always wanted. All period correct Datsun only modifications. A what could have Datsun done if they wanted to. I am really looking forward to getting more fire in my Z. Guy, thanks for all your advice, going with Eiji has been a very enjoyable experience so far.

I take the car out and get the the car to sit at 16.8:1 with it popping and sputtering, then I slam the choke all the way back and the AFR drops to 12:1 and the car takes off like a rocket ship. Whatever is going on, my car is NOT getting enough fuel. Or it is not using the fuel in a manner that is 'normal'. If it still has this issue, then we can definitively say it is not the carbs. I do believe that Ztherapy gave them a look at. But I am just not sure how in depth they actually looked for issues. I think he drove around with them, but heck I can drive around with them for 2000 miles and the car will run like a top. You have to search for this failure. I casually drove with this going on for over a year before I noticed it. Now that I know it is there, I feel it constantly. I may be wrong, and I will admit it if I am, but I would bet a shiny new nickle that Webers solve this. If I am wrong, then consider this the most expensive test of a theory in the history of Z cars.

Hey PJOE, I have a nice shiny set of 15x7 panasports that would look great on that car!!! PM me and I will make you a great offer.

Still waiting on carburetors. MSA was out of them. I did look up and join sidedraft central. Very cool website. I will post what my carbs come with out of the box for reference. Blue, I will let you know if I get 151's or 152's.

Okay, now I am confused. I have a 71 Z. And I will be putting in a new Type B tranny in my car when I do the engine swap. I was under the impression that aside from 'messaging' the opening in the transmission tunnel, it is a direct bolt in. Meaning I can use my stock driveshaft. I know the Type A and type B are essentially identical in length, so that must mean the 72 Z's had longer drive shafts since the diff was placed further backward. Do I have that right?

That is sound advice, Steve... I am not sure what spec Eiji has for me, he send me picture of it, and it had holes, LARGE holes drilled all around the outer circumference. He did not mention if it was aluminum, but at that weight, it would almost have to be. I really want a driveable engine, that is not right on the verge of stalling. I may shop around for one that has a bit more heft. We will see, I am sure I have time to think about it.

Eiji said it will not be bad at all with the torque I should have. I have to go with his advice. I had originally spec'ed a 12 lb flywheel. I can still change it if the overall opinion is 9 lbs is too light

I am getting an engine built up by Eiji at DatsunSpirit, as most of you know. It will be a medium grind cam on a high compression L28, with triples, and a 9 lb flywheel. Should be fairly zippy. I am going to go ahead and do my Type A to type B tranny swap while I am at is, so a new clutch kit is in order. Any recommendations for this engine on which clutch I should try? Centerforce? Stock? ACT? It should be streetable, and not a full on race clutch. What have others used with a torquey L28 and a light flywheel?

I am getting an N42 block/N42 head engine built up by Datsun Spirit right now. I am going to throw a set of triples on it and run about 9.5:1 compression with a decent cam. I will let you know how it turns out. Money has been sent, so it is only a matter of time before I get her breathing fire. One question though, with my 9 lb flywheel, I am going to need a new clutch....I may have to do some searching in the drivetrain section.

my pleasure, I will knock that out today sometime.

I will get you pictures tonight buddy. I am sorry, I have been busy with other, Non Datsun things.

Lets see. If I were stock, I could not sent the full 13V to the points. At least for not very long. So I would have had to run it differently. For instance. I think I would have to connect the black/white (3) wire that gets battery power with the key in the run position to one side of the 1.5 kOhm ballast resistor. Then, since on a 71 the wire that gives the coil its power (green/white) has to go through the tach first and then back to the coil and dizzy. I would have hooked up the green/white wire to the opposite end of the unbridged ballast resistor (thus dropping the voltage going through the tach and back to the coil through the black/white wire (4). This way the tach would see about 10 volts (well less than 13V anyway) , which means the coil would only get about 10 volts, resulting in a weaker spark that would not prematurely destroy the points. If you ran a 3kOhm coil you could bypass the ballast resistor altogether, but your tach will see the full voltage during engine run and your coil would receive more input voltage. Actually, I am not sure how the coils resistance matters at all. The way it is wired.

Update: no luck with what I thought I did. I am not a moron, my setup is fine. Still popping through the exhaust Looks like motorman will get his wish! Haha

OH no, much worse... I will know if I am a total moron in about 3 hours.

It is so dumb, that I would be ashamed to admit it unless it is the actual problem. Yes, suspense thrillers keep the audience enthralled

UPDATE: I have been ordering things feverishly. MSA is out of stock on the Webers, it will take 2-5 days for them to get them. Oh well. IN the mean time, I may have found something that may shed some light into the weaker spark theory. I will hold off my thoughts until I test it when I get home tonight though. But if I fixed it last night, this could be the biggest waste of 18 pages in the history of Z car club.

I can vouch for that Captain. I have both on my bench right now. The SM's are indeed shorter than the OEM N27's. I will snap a pic for you later today if my test runs this evening show nothing.

Well if you use a 3 kohm coil you no longer need the ballast resistor with a pertronix. At least that is the common factoid talked about around here. You are right, my ballast is not doing anything. But I leave it on as a convenient way to connect wires.

I spent some time last night with a wiring diagram, a soldering iron, and a beer looking at my ignition wiring to see if anything is wired funky that could be messing with my voltage going to my pertronix and coil. I discovered a few neat things. First the way the coil gets its power. I think this is cool (although it is old school to most of you I am sure). In the stock configuration when you turn the key to the last position right before you start, the coil gets its voltage after it runs through the ballast resistor. A stepped down voltage if you will to protect the points I would imagine. Now when you turn the key, the ignition sends 12 V straight to the starter AND to the coil and the extra voltage is used to help start the engine with a hotter spark. I really did not know this. But after staring at lines on a wiring diagram all night (I really hate dealing with wiring BTW) this hit me. So I was laying in bed at night and I thought that the way it was wired my pertronix is getting 13+ volts during engine run. I thought that the pertronix had to have 3ohms in place to step down the voltage. Here is a description of how I have mine and how I understand it. Keep in mind I have a 3kohm coil. First check this for sanity, and if okay, hope it helps others.

This is great information madkaw, and further makes me scratch my head that my SU's with SM needles are making me run lean... There has to be something up somewhere else. Anyway, glad to hear your car is running so well. That is awesome! Congrats!!!