Zedyone_kenobi

yeah, those two are attached at the hip. I think the best practice method of setting the throttle plates is just to ensure you do not uncover a progression hole too soon. Mine are not uncovered at all, and in fact the throttle plates have to move bit before I uncover them at all. Now one could keep changing jets out I suppose, but I am not sure you could ever get there. I am only 1.5 turns out from closed on my mixture screws. I cannot go too much more closed. Again, I think the rule of thumb is to not uncover the first progression hole at idle, If you have to close it more than that, no harm no foul. by the way, this new L28 I am running has absolutely NO flat spot anywhere. I think that is mostly due to my 30mm chokes than anything else. I wonder if going to 32mm chokes would allow me to open up the plates a bit since the velocity of air coming in at 1000 rpm would be slower. I just have to buy some 32mm chokes and try. GOSH I CANNOT LEAVE A GOOD RUNNING CAR ALONE!!!!!!

Well today in order to get my carbs even better (this is where the issues come in as they were running fine, and I cannot seem to leave well enough alone). I opened up the screw covering the progression holes. Now all manner of weber tuning manuals state that you need to have the butteflies covering the first progression hole. And when you first tip into the throttle you start to uncover it. Well I noticed that mine were not this way. Instead they were almost a full turn more closed that than. Meaning I could move the butterflies a few mm before I would even start to uncover the first holes. Well I figured this had to be wrong (even though I had a reliable running, idling, and starting car) So I loosened up the throttle levers, and then made my fine adjustments with a magnifying glass so that the slightest touch of the throttle would start to uncover the first hole! I was very proud of my overkill on how perfect I got it. I hooked up the throttle levers and started her up expecting a rock solid smooth idle. What happened? Well She started up quickly and then revved to 2300 rpm and stayed there. I then proceeded to muck with my air/fuel mixture screws that were previously perfect to try to drop the idle. Well I got her around 1500 rpm but with an afr of around 19:1!!!! barely struggling to go. So I turned the throttle plate screws back to where they were and she is idling smoothly again and I got the afr back to 12.5:1. Just goes to show you, that general settings are not the same for all cars or even all model weber carbs. Maybe this is a progression hole thing with the 151's. Who knows, but I certainly cannot set mine as factory recommended or else I rev to the moon. Very interesting things these webers!

Well until I get about 400 miles or so. I am up to 200 now. Just did another oil change of VR1 today which should last until about 1000 miles, then it will be just another engine ready to drive and enjoy.

Finally got some video of me, but the quality is just aweful! http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdamico/7965447110/

I have been very busy lately just driving the car. I do owe everybody a video of the car roaring. IT sounds glorious. I ended up using an OEM 240Z clutch to answer your question...

tlorber, you and me, we gotta work on our communication! that picture physically makes me ill. Is there a story behind this poor injured Z?

I would not think mid 13's as being too lean. Everything I read is always pointing you to mid 12's as the most power happy point to be, but mid 13's is still on the rich side of stoich. I would think you would be doing just great if at the high RPM you are consistently in the 13's.

Yeah, that registration has to be done, she has been in my garage for so long getting going I just have not had a chance... 'break'n the law... break'n the law... break'n the law..." tlorber, I am sorry, have you not heard of Murphys Law.... Do a google search. AS for being a trailer queen, not ever going to happen. But your warning is not unheard by my ears my friend!

Driving it would be fun but having a means of getting it home in case Murphy strikes is priceless. Plus towing it means I can bring almost limitless spares, camera equipment, etc. I have gone back and forth on driving it or towing it. Both have advantages

OH my I love that car Mally! Beautiful.

BRING A TRAILER?? Well I sent in my last payment for my TEXAS 1000 rally. The new engine is well under way to being broken in. I have one more oil change left. I have fitted 205/55/15 yokohama S drives on my old Panasports which I wholeheartedly love. I have started a packing list and a tool bag that I can stash inside my tool box in back. I contacted the rally folks and they are prepared. I have a few more things I would like to ask? Has anybody used a UHAUL car transporter before? I wonder if my front spook will have issues going on and off the ramps.

Mike I have to disagree with you. I wholeheartedly do NOT want to change the way I look at transportation. I like cars to be fun fossil fuel burning fun machines. I think that the green movement is a wad of garbage made to boost the green industry and make them billions of dollars. The requirement will never be met, and I certianly hope it gets revised downward. I like innovation and moving forward, but not at the expense of fun and exciting vehicles to drive. It is only a matter of time before the green nazi's target the S30's as pollution and planet killers and are banned. You have to be cautious of what these guys are doing in the 'name of the planet'. How many freedoms are we losing in the name of 'green'.

Due to my overwhelming hatred of this government picking its winners, I will refrain from getting to involved with this. But I will say that Propping up an immature industry to appease the call for 'green' technologies is a misguided waste of taxpayer money. The whole green movement nothing more than the most successful marketing campaign in the history of the world to charge people more money for an inferior product. The Green movement has nothing to do with saving the planet, and everything to do with making green for the companies that slap 'green' onto everything from flooring products to home health insurance.

That will certainly get you out of a jam! Great thinking When you put the engine back in, you may have to remove the front bumper to get the engine far back enough. I would remove it now to save yourself the trouble.

Well if I remember, don't the 18's have 2 progression holes and the 151's have three?

Well I put my bid in and it was quickly shot down FAST

I am so tempted to bid on these. I really really want these. But my gosh the price is crazy

My bad at 39 I got great googly moogly from the old man in the commercial who misspelled the Chiefs in an endzone on football field and painted Chefs. HAHA... My apologies!

What was that wooden thing in the console? that may as well be a bricklyn as much as it could be a Z.

I would also go down one size on your air corrector. It may help with the flat spot. well it worked for me!

Thanks so much, I knew their had to be something there. I will try to find some cork or foam or something to seal it up.

I was cleaning up the Z last night, and noticed my bulb in the passenger turning lamp under the bumper is just sort of flopping around in the hole. It looks like there should be a rubber grommet between the plastic bulb holder and the white light housing it fits into. Is this plastic on plastic, or is there a rubber grommet between the two to keep them tight. The fit is just terrible now, and I would like to get them back to stock.

No I use a screw driver! Not sure what you mean by that question? Am I missing something.

Very nice install! That 50F8 idle jet should really lean you out ! It was almost 2 points leaner than my 55F9 jets

Can I change out the venturies with the carbs still on the car? It looks like they just pull out.