Zedyone_kenobi

I took my think aluminum heat shield and bought some adhesive thermal tape sold in the V8 Mr. Gasket section of your local auto parts store. They make out to be header wrap. I put that on the bottom of my heat shield in many layers. Carbs seem very happy.

Agreed, the more info you have the better. Also, do you have a wideband?

Okay, I hooked up my other ballast resistor to the car. I ran a jumper wire from the end of the Mallory Ballast which was putting out 12.38 volts (stepped down from 13.9V) to the OEM ballast (which was new as well) Then I measured the voltage on the other end of the OEM ballast to see if there was a corresponding step down. Nope. Voltage INTO Mallory Ballast -> 13.9 V Voltage OUT of Mallory Ballast -> 12.4 V Voltage INTO OEM Ballast -> 12.4 V Voltage OUT of Mallory Ballast -> 12.4 V So what this means i probably need to buy yet another Malloy Ballast resistor.

Carl I sincerely thank you. Mine look nothing like this. In fact the directions that came with the distributor are not the same as the directions that came with the new ignition module. Weird. I have never seen the directions you gave me, but I am going to give it a try with two resistors. I need to get the voltage in the 9 to 10 volt range or else I will cause another ignition module to expire... That gets expensive!

It is common knowledge that Mallory ignition modules do not really care for too much voltage. The instructions that came with my new dizzy say to hook up the red power wire to the 12 volt ignition source. Well on my car that was 13.8 volts... Poof went the first module. Fast forward 90 dollars later with a new ignition module, and the instructions with that replacement module say hook up the red wire to the opposite side of the ballast to the 12 v ignition source. Problem here is my ballast resister puts out like 12.4 volts down from 13.8 This would probably smoke the new resister. I have an extra OEM ballast I can hook up in series to the Mallory ballast that may step down the voltage enough. I may try that tonight Anybody else had this issue.

Man, you read my mind! I was just looking in horror at those sockets on the fender. If a hummingbird feather lands on fender it can dent.

Looks like a wonderful starting point. Your head is screwed on right with the mechanical once over. You had the same exact goals as I did with my car. Buy the nicest driver I could and fix it up while you enjoy it. I think you did very well. Our cars are so much alike, even down to the horrible Yorx AC compressor and torn throttle push rod bushing gasket. IF you have any questions, please ask us. We are here to help and foster any good will toward Z owners anywhere. WELCOME

Great Tid Bit from the Organizer Rich. He asked me for pictures and when I sent him pictures of my Z he replied with this... Hi Stephen, Got it. Pretty car. I like the color and the Minilite/Panasport wheels. Very cool. FYI, I was Managing Editor of Car & Driver in 1971 when we built the 240Z Omega project car. I have lots of stories about that car. I'm also having lunch with my friend Bob Sharp the week before the rally to talk about doing a book on Bob Sharp Racing vs Group 44. Thank you! Never Lift! Rich Neat book that will be worth the reading!

I did not know in California they did not have Shift keys on their keyboards? It is right under the enter key. You should look into it.

41 days and the Rally gets closer. Did more tuning with the timing last night, but will have to start over when I get my Mallory hooked up correctly at last. I asked about the entry list, and this is the reply I got from Rich Taylor, one of the organizers putting on the rally... We're looking forward to seeing you and Greg. We'll have a final entry list later on, but right now it has some cool cars, including a real C-type Jaguar, Maserati A6GCS, a bunch of Corvettes, Ferraris and Porsches, etc. And two Datsuns, your 240Z and a 260Z, plus a TR-6 and BMW 3.0 CSI. You'll have a lot of fun, we promise! So the entry list looks fun, but my question is WHO IS THE OTHER Z CAR!? It will be great to represent the Z guys out there! 2 Z's among some very pricey sheet metal. That makes me very happy. November will take forever to get here no doubt. I googled the Maserati, and it is just stunning! As is that C type Jag! I will make sure not to touch them! I cannot afford to touch the oil leaking from those cars!

Unfortunately, I know this is true, but I love it.

Well my my issue I am trying to solve is just what you describe Lazeum, WOT at 2000 rpm super fast. I am not sure I really need to, but something in me just loves to tinker with these darn things! Under normal driving, the car runs almost flawlessly.

I have not done the runs yet Blue, but I have been doing ALOT of driving. I have not totally eliminated my stumble at transition, but gosh it is close to being gone. I have ordred some larger pump jets though as a trial (expensive trial since they are 10 bucks each! OUCH). I want to get more fuel into the car faster. I noticed that the current jet and spring combination the fuel continues to come out from the accelerator pump for a time after the throttle plates go wide open. When I had the carbs off to install the 32mm chokes, I had to empty the fuel bowls. Well just tilting the carbs do not work on webers like they do no holleys so I just activated the Accelrator pumps via the throttle shaft many times, and when I went WOT I noticed how long the fuel kept streaming out. I thought that getting it more fuel for a shorter time period may help out the hole when I just go WOT very quickly. I cannot slam open the throttles on my car at low rpm without a brief pause and the taking off quickly. There is definitely a lean spot then it goes back to about 13:1ish. This is what I am thinking is happening. I am going wide open on the throttle plates when the volume of air being taken in by the engine is relatively low, so the carb main circuit is not sensing enough flow through the venturi to draw fuel up the main jet and into the etubes and then into the main venturi. I am currently running 40 pump jets. I bought 50 pump jets. This will dispense the same amount of fuel but in a shorter amount of time. This could have two results... I could dump too much and it will not atomize and may pool up in the manifold and make the instant WOT hole much worse. Or it will get the fuel it needs and will fill the void left by going to instant WOT at lower gears. It is a calculated risk. I bought 2 sizes up on the pump jet (going with a 50 vs a 45) so I could get a more drastic delta. If it gets much worse I will know I went perhaps the wrong way. the beauty of the webers design is to be able to do so much tuning so quickly without removing the carbs. They were made to work on, which gives me a smile each and every time I take them apart. I cannot fathom a more user friendly design.

wow, deal of the century

Not sure why I had better pressure with the regulator than the filter. Unless, the the filter has a check valve in it that may limit how much pressure can get through. I think I may have a look at it.

congrats BLUE! If you ever need any original OEM 71 parts, I have an entire very good running 71 block and head that ran very well before I installed my L28. Burns Zero oil and had great compression. Let me know how the restoration goes! Also have an extra spook without brake ducts if you want to install that. But its 901 silver

Totally agree but I am only getting 2 psi with it dead headed. My return line is smaller since I am using OEM sizes. We will see what happens

Yeah, my Carter could easily hit 3.5 psi as well, but the noise it made was just plain crazy. I am going to experiment a bit with the fuel line. The real reason I am messing with this, is that I want to run a return line back to the tank. I know it may not be totally necessary, but I like the idea of not having stagnant fuel in the fuel rail. When I built the rail I tapped both ends and bought AN fittings to make a return circuit. However, I need to get the fuel pressure back up, as when I add a return line, the pressure will drop a bit. I am going to use the fuel restrictor orifice that was on the OEM SU fuel rail. From doing more reading, it would seem what really matters is the amount of flow. Pressure is of course not negligible, but if you can supply enough volume, then the webers are usually happy. I have no data to back this up, just words of advice from various weber threads on numerous other automotive forums.

Do not know why, but I have some strange memory of Canon AE-1 and any motorsports events...

Well today in a bid to remove some restriction of my fuel system. I removed my holley fuel regulator. It was cranked all the way out anyway, and all the RX7 pump could muster was 2.75 psi. I am running dead headed. My question is, what is the minimum amount of fuel pressure a set of DCOE's need? I have not seen a minimum, I have read they like lots of fuel and should not have more than 5 psi, but what is in fact a good number. Reason I ask is this. I installed my holley inline filter in place of my old regulator. I figured more filtering was better (since I already have a pre-pump filter installed as well) if the pressure drop through the filter is small. Well with the filter installed the most I can achieve now is 2 psi on my fuel pressure gage. That was with the car NOT running, just sitting spinning the pump dead headed to the fuel rail. I am not sure 2 psi is enough pressure. I am going to remove the holley inline filter right before the fuel rail and see if it was contributing to any of the pressure drop. With it dead headed at no flow, I would not think it would matter one bit. I dearly love how quiet my new pump is, but wonder if it is up to the task of fueling my carbs.

You are going to LOVE your DatsunSpirit engine!!!

No no doubts sir, none, just had never seen one like that before. To my eyes it was strange looking, but I had no idea it was an early BRE edition.

JFA that front spook has a strange shape to its sides.... Mine has a totally different angle. My front view: My side view

I cry foul, need more pictures of that beauty now BEN!

Not sure, but you probably have some trapped air in the nylon oil pressure line and that may be slowing or at least making your gage sluggish.