Zedyone_kenobi

negative. If run more than 13 I get some pinging at heavy load in 3rd and 4th gear. With 10.5:1 compression that was going to be a risk I was taking. AT 10 degrees advance, I get none. Car seems to run fine. I will try to bump up the octane and run about 14-17 to see how she likes it. I know webers like lots of initial advance. If I can ever get my mallory unilte to work without blowing the ignition module I will order the curve kit for it so I can run more advance initially.

Agreed, I was wrong. Sorry about that. I forgot to account for road resistance and air resistance at that speed.

I tend to agree with Lazum. I think you should try 115 or 120. I have some 120's if you would like to try.

Today I changed out my 30mm chokes for 32mm chokes. As you would expect not much has changed as far as idle quality, but having said that. For the first time, I was able to get the carbs perfectly balanced at 1000 rpm dead on. All 6 cylinders were pulling identical amounts of air, and also, my AFR was as close to steady as it has ever been. I could get a decent idle before, but it would fluctuate from 12.3 to 13.4, and would cycle seemingly randomly around there, but average about 12.7. Now I do not vary more than .4 on my AFR. I stay about 12.9 to 13.4. My part throttle seems smoother, and it picks up revs very quickly. I cannot wait to drive it to see how she feels. But for now, I have the car on jack stands with the front spook off, I am waiting for my ducted spook..

I have been taking your advice to heart. Every time I take her out I push her harder and harder. Great advice...may seem like common sense, but those are wise words!

Bravo man. That car is a testament to how to enjoy a car. Do what you want and simply smile and drive it. It also goes to prove that a Z is a car that grow and be the car you need it to be. It is such a beautiful shape to keep you captivated for all these years. I salute you sir!

mally, I am truly at a loss for words. I have never seen such a collection of perfection in one place. You have my dream garage. An early air cooled Porsche and a 240z. Wow, you must be so proud. Such a wonderful problem you must have to decide what you want to drive!

55 days and counting to the Texas 1000. I am finishing off the fine tuning, adjusting, cleaning and prepping the car. I am making a mental list of everything I need to check out. I have the car on four jack stands once again, and I am starting to get ready for the last round of fixes. Yesterday I replaced the passenger outer tie rod which split its boot 2 months ago when I put it on. I found out why. I filled it with grease prior to installation and it was very full already. If anything I overfilled it. So when you put the 40-55 ft lbs on it you compress the rubber boot even more. Combined with age, this is what made the boot fail. So, note to self, never overpack a rubber seal with grease. As you know, the engine and transmission are new. The gear oil in the diff has less than 2000 miles on it. (royal purple) So fluids should be okay. I installed new brakes on all four corners within the past 700 miles. Wheel bearings have all been replaced within the past 2 years. New brake fluid. I have redone the fuel system. I have redone the cooling system. I have brand new tires. So I am okay on that end. This is my first 1000 mile rally. And I want to be sure that the car makes it the distance. I DO NOT want to be the only japanese car there among german, italian and british cars and have a mechanical breakdown. That would be unthinkable!! I feel like I am representing the classic japanese car folks here. Can I get you guys to throw some things out there I should double check now that the car is up in the air on jackstands? No suggestion is too small. I have this sinking feeling that while I have the major components in great shape, I am forgetting something small that can sideline me.

Good advice. I am going to go up to 32 mm form 30, but not really sure that will make a bit of difference. I will keep an eye out on my AFR if I am ever in a situation to be at red line in 4th gear!

wow, dude, just wow. Its Christmas folks!!!

Not sure, as this would seem to be better suited to a diaphragm type of pump where the pumping pressure oscillates between high and low pressures. The RX7 pump is more of a rotary pump with constant pressure like the CARTER was. I could really see that being useful with the OEM mechanical pump.

When Installing my triple webers, I ordered a lot of parts. I mean a lot. Not all of them were as researched as others. At times this means I had a few 'extra' parts laying around that I may find a use for some day. Maybe not. Anyway, one of the parts I received was of course an electric fuel pump. This is the beast I ordered as it was used by others and seemed to fit the bill for pressure: Well as much fuel as this pump put out, it put out exponentially more SOUND.. think fire alarm loud, think chainsaw, think electric engraver loud! I installed the rubber isolators like it suggested and even put a thin piece of rubber gasket material in between the bracket and the mounting point on the car. No luck. I added an extra deck carpet in my car. NO luck, it was crazy loud. I put up with it, as I had to have pump and I needed this to work while I dialed in my triples, but it all came to a head when I attempted to make a video the car running. When I downloaded the video from the camera, all you could hear in the movie was the darned fuel pump! It was just terrible sounding. So, with that being said, I decided to ditch the pump and take the advice of many members on this board and go with a 1981 RX-7 electric fuel pump. To say this is quiet is probably the biggest understatement on earth. It is just dead silent. I left my Holley fuel pressure regulator in place and wide open it allowed the pump to put out 2.7 psia to the fuel rail with the engine running. I may need to remove the regulator as, it is not really needed with this pump with everything I have read. I was running the chainsaw pump at 3 psia. I have not done any long 4th gear pulls to see if 2.7 is enough, but I think it will be fine. Anyway, this is the pump I ordered from Rock Auto.. It was only 42 bucks and arrived in 2 days. I recommend it completely.

SUs are a fine setup but nothing on earth would ever make me go back to SUs I have to be honest though I do miss my refurbished OEM air box a little But then I look at those gorgeous air horns and smile Bottom line, I love my webers!!!!

That thing V70R is shining LIKE A BOSS!! wholly wax job batman!

Physically it makes no sense. The torque required to get you moving is exponentially more than when you are already moving and the motor spins from 3000-5000 rpm. NO offense, but your motor does not 'come on' that strong at 4000 rpm to cause slippage. Unless something is really messed up with the pressure plate... Again something is weird here.

That is a holley carb if I am not mistaken.

Looking at the wiring diagram, I see that you are right!! I cannot believe I never thought about that. May explain my sluggish oil pressure gage.

Wait, sorry to bring back an older thread, but the sending unit cannot have teflon tape on it?

I fully expect my mains and airs to go up with the 32's. I think I will end up with the 55's. I am glad to hear the 32mm will have zero effect on my idle and progression. As they are very nice right now! I do not have a micro drill, but I do have a nice soldering torch... man you are an enabler!

grannyknot, I have made an in car video that was darn near 10 minutes long. It was fun to make. I have rigged up a tripod on the deck of my car and wire tied it to the rear strut bar. it is very stable. However, when listening to the video, all you can hear is the DAMN electric fuel pump. It is so God Aweful loud in the video you can barely hear the L28 music. So annoyed I was with this, I am ordering a 81 RX7 pump as many veteran members here have. I will be giving that a shot in the week to come. I just cannot stand the constant BUZZZZZZZZZ anymore. The carter pump has been reliable, but nothing I have done has made it less annoying!!!!

We last left our hero with a very functional setup of the following: 120 Main Jets 170 Air Corrector F11 Emulsion Tube 60F9 Idle jets This yielded a decently smooth idle and a steady state cruise AFR of around 12.9:1. Going to lunch the other day though, my friend who was following me told me that I was reeking of gas behind the car. This concerned me. Needlessly running rich does not yield any advantages at all. so lets try to figure out what was happening. First at around 2600 rpm in 4th, the throttle plates are barely cracked. I think it is very safe to say I am NOT pulling form the main circuit at this time. So it has to be in the idle jet. The more I thought about this, the more clear it seemed. Simple tests for idle jet 'correctness' at least from an AFR point of view. When I was idling at 12.5:1 the mixture screws were barely 1.5 turns out. As Blue noted and I confirmed through more reading, the 151's really need more than this. More like 2 full turns. But I will get back to that. Keeping in mind the mixture screw does not adjust Air/Fuel mixture. It is merely an opening that allows premixed air and fuel to enter the throat of the carb. The more you open it, the more premixed air and fuel enters. This means that you can get the car to idle with darn near any idle jet by making adjustments to the idle screws to get enough fuel in there. I would wager that there are limits to this, but for the most part if you are close you can get her to idle. So how do you know if you are crazy rich on the idle jet? My moment of clarity came as I was taking a long tuning drive down the freeway. Any tip in I did in 4th gear at around 60 mph I immediately dropped to 10:1 AFR. If I kept my foot more in it (meaning I introduced the main circuit into the equation), my AFR got closer to 13:1. So my webers were talking to me and I was not listening!! What do I mean? Well since I had to go so far down on my mixture screws to get my idle AFR in a happy place (deemed as 12.5:1 by popular opinion) and my AFR while solely in the progression circuit (which is also fed by the idle jet) was dipping in to the 10's it tells me that the premixed air/fuel from the 60F9's was too rich! Now post #34 seems to contradict this, but looking back at my hand written notes, I made that assumption too quickly. I did not take her on the freeway long enough or do a long enough drive. I think I was getting into the main circuit when I stated that my part throttle AFR were spot on. When I carefully drove on the free way at very slight openings of the throttle, the AFR is indeed in the 10's. My biggest problem is that I never have enough time to do more than one test per week. I need more time to test and document these things. GRRRR. my quickie fix was to remove the 60F9 and install the 50F9's. I was able to adjust the mixture screws 2.25 turns from fully seated, when I attained the 12.5:1 AFR at 1000 rpm. Also of note, my idle did get smoother and the AFR reading was not as bouncy. I may still need to install the 55F9s. We will see. But all of this will be thrown out the window as I have ordered my 32mm chokes from www.carbsunlimited.com. So we will have to tweak these all over again at a later date. If you wonder if I am having fun messing around with these. Well the answer is a resounding yes!!! I love carburetors. I love the fact that it requires a certain skill set to make them work correctly. I love the trial and error portion of the work.

I removed the aux venturi just now trying to play with it after a rejet (yes another one). More on that later. The Aux Venturi are held in place by the set screw that is about 45 degrees from horizontal toward the bottom of the carb. It was a snap to slide out by hand. I think the screw holding in the chokes are in place are just beside the pump jet cover screw.

I can tell you I am blown away with how much mid range torque I have. It is just so usable. The ability to scoot up and around things with the flex of your toe on the accelerator is a joy. Almost no need to down shift form 4th when just driving around town. It pulls almost from 1500 rpm up. I have taken her as high as 4500 rpm so far and she is running well. Has not burned a drop of oil and seems to be extremely tight. If I get aggressive with the throttle in first gear some tire spin occurs. I have yet to really to full tilt through all the gears at WOT, so I cannot comment how fast that would be, but she feels like a rocket ship compared to my OEM L24. The webers have a whole new sound to them with the L28. With Timing set at 14 BTDC with a max of 35 degrees was running into some pinging in 3rd and 4th gear at 1500 rpm while loading up the engine. It was barely audible, but I could hear it. If I eased off the gas it would be a non issue, even while loading up the engine in a tall gear at low rpm. However, I backed off to 10 deg BTDC and max advance of 30-31 and there is zero pining ever. Pulls strong, and idles very well. I cannot make it ping right now. I may try to advance it one degree at a time to see what I can get away with. But the car seems to like where I have it. When I get my Mallory back from summit racing (bad ignition module) I plan to run it at 10 degrees BTDC and max at 34. I may later buy an adapter kit to make it run 14 BTDC with a max of 31 ish. We will see. Without a dyno to really measure results, it is hard to tell any real improvement. To be honest, I am not sure changing out a perfectly working pertronix with a Mallory will yeild any results what so ever.

What an amazingly good post Blue.. but reading this makes me want to fiddle that much more! DANG IT. I have ordered 32mm choke tubes for my 151's. I just need to find out how to install them. I would love to install them without having to remove the carbs, but not sure if that is impossible. I have searched for a how to video, but have found nothing. Guess I can just pull one off and experiment! I have never had a flat spot with my 30mm chokes, but I really do think it would make more mid range and top end with 32mm. I think I have an engine that is healthy enough and pulls enough vacuum at low rpm that it can take a bigger choke without losing too much throttle response.

Not fair, I would love to come to this!!! wish he could make a trip to texas