Zedyone_kenobi

Matias, thanks for the kind words, all my threads end up like this, very wordy and full of pictures! I am interested in this Uniball you speak of. I will do some digging around on McMasterCarr.

Man, I simple LOVE the Gnose on your car. I think if it were me I would take off the side and rear valances to expose the vintage lines, but the way your car looks right now it all seems to work just right. VERY nice

This evening I cleaned up the garage, put 1.5 quarts of royal purple in the transmission, hooked up the speedometer cable, connected and tested the reverse lights, put the neutral switch plug back in, and installed the shiny new Hella Horns. I am questioning the color of the horns. What do you guys think?

That is a great tip. I have long wished to tidy up both footwell compartments. Great tip Blue

Keep in mind the small squirter does not inject less fuel, it injects fuel over a longer period of time. A larger squirter will dump the same volume of fuel faster. Happy tuning.

wow, that picture above really makes my door look shabby.. NO, stay the course Zedyone!... One project at a time.

Here are the pictures I promised you. THe black shift lever is the MSA short shifter. This shifter requires the use of small ears that fit on to the two tabs at the base of the transmission. These tabs raise the fulcrum substantially as you can see. This shortens the throws, but makes the effort to shift enormous. It also makes fitting the stock console an impossibility. The stock lever to the right is much more adaptable to a 71 and early Z that came with a Type A shifter. I was able to enlarge the opening using the Type B shifter boot as a template. THen I drilled some small holes at each opening in the boot and was able to use sheet metal screws to secure the metal shift boot ring down to the transmission tunnel. Then the grinding of the OEM center console started. I am not going to lie, it hurt me to grind that console. But in the end I think it was worth it. After many test fits, and some very harsh treatment of my fuse box (poor thing gets crushed each time I take it in and out of that narrow console opening) I was able to get the shifter to work with the OEM boot. That chord hanging down is my Innovative LC1. I need to find a way to reroute it to the O2 sensor. I use to go through the shift boot, but really did not want to mess with a good thing this time. I may have to swallow my pride and do it again, but I would hate to cut a slit in that brand new shift boot.

Looks great. Yes, 1x6 is probably better, good call. I got my OEM shifter in, I will take pics comparing it to the MSA short shifter....I think I may be good now...but I will find out if it fits after I put my little one to sleep tonight.

Mike it seems we think alike I am currently doing the exact same thing all the way to the stainless throttle rod from mcmasterr

You may be onto something there. I will give that some serious thought

Sure have Frank, but just backing these out 3-4 turns still leaves 80% full thread depth engaged into the manifold. I think that will be fine considering the extremely low torque these see. I will still locktite them in for good measure though

Doldrums. Sailors use to hate them. THe long wait between wind and the much desired forward movement that keeps a project rolling. Well my friends, I find myself in the automotive doldrums. Caught in between two projects, I just do not have the parts to go forward. On the interior, I want to get my OEM shifter in for the type B tranny. I fit the MSA short shifter in and the quality is so poor I do not like it. It adds VAST amounts of forward and rearward slop to the action of a perfectly designed factory shifter. I notched out my console to make the much taller MSA shifter fit, and while I could bolt the console up, the shifter still hit it when I put it in 1st and 3rd. Now this is not so much the consoles fault as it is the shifter lever. The MSA short shift kit moves the shifter fulcrum up almost an inch over the OEM one. It is a very crude design and I should not have been tricked by the S shaped handle. But lesson learned. For Type A to Type B tranny swaps, the MSA short shifter is not a solution. So I wait in the doldrums to finish the interior On the engine/transmission front. I wait. Duldrums. The entire passenger side of the engine is done, completely. I have not even started the drivers side. Two things are holding me up. First, I need to get my collector pipe back from the muffler shop that is welding my O2 Bung on. I cannot even try to fit the exhaust up without that piece, since it fits to both the header AND the exhaust pipe. Since I cannot fit the exhaust, I cannot fit the intake as you fine fellows know. I am not going to mount the water intake with the thermostat until the intake and the exhaust are on so they do not get in the way. So the passenger side is on hold....So I wait. I took the liberty to refine the fit on the studs of the CANNON manifold the webers fit on. You see, the kit they provide for you comes with nice new studs, but they do not tell you to NOT screw them in all the way. IF you do that, when you go to mount the lower locking nuts OVER the springs you do not have enough thread sticking out to start the nut! It can be a cause for much foul language. So I started to back all the studs on the bottom out about 1/8". Easy enough. Then I come to a perplexing discovery. Upon trying to reattach the throttle bar where all the throttle arms attach to and actuate all the webers, I notice the CANNON manifold is not properly aligned. Let me explain. The CANNON manifold has three holes drilled and tapped where three rod ends screw into it. These rod ends hold the throttle linkage bar. When I screw in my rod ends into my manifold, I notice that one is distinctly not lined up with the others. This is cause for my slow throttle return at times. I noticed my pedal always had more effort than it should have, and at times the weaker return spring did not quite get it back to idle as it should when you let off the gas pedal. This misalignment was causing some mild binding. I need to find a way to fix this. More pics to come.

Get a wooden stick (like a sawed off broomstick), and put one end on your ear. Then move it around to the alternator, water pump, AC pulley, etc. When you hit the object making the noise you WILL hear it.

No I am sorry, I am saying if you are planning to drop the transmission with the engine still in the car, you will need 15" of room to get the bell housing out form under the body frame rails and fender. I actually advice if you are going to pull the engine and transmission out as a unit, you should try to get the back of the car up higher than the front. THe front I would suggest the height of the floor jack under the engine crossmember. Keeping the front lower than the back means you will need FAR less angle tilt on the engine to get it in. I also have an extra engine Tilter if anybody needs one. My 2 ton engine hoist came with one as a bonus I did not know about. So if anybody is planning to pull an engine / transmission, let me know and I can mail you my extra harbor freight one. No idea of the quality, but it is brand new and still in the box.

I am in awe, AWE I tell you!! that is insane!!! And it is not many places in the world that people will understand what your talking about! HAHAHA

I would heavily advise you to pull them together. But at the same time, others have had no issues at all. If you can get the car up high enough, then I think it would have been easier, but you will need at LEAST 15" of clearance between the body and the ground to get that transmission out. Which still makes it hard to get back up there and install. Pull them both out.

Well when you go to reply, there is a box called 'Go Advanced' right next to the box that says 'Post Quick Reply' When you click that you will get a fancier text box with lots of options. There is one option that looks like a picture. Click that. And then you will get a dialog box that appears asking you to choose where the picture comes from. One tab is for picking a picture from your computer, the other is from a web URL. If you have the pictures on your computer you can click that tab and then click select files. After that you navigate to those pictures and then choose them. Then click SAVE and then click upload file(s) That should get you there.

Frank, so you need any original 71 Z engine parts? what about some Ztherapy carbs and mainifold polished for your new baby. I have basically a complete all original L24 that I will need to find a new home for.

Um, there is a Gnose being discussed and we have not asked for pictures yet!!!! AHEM pics!!!

Well I am finally done back tracking after my tranny hiccup. So here we are with the engine back in. I am pleased with the radiator fit now. I also hookedup the lower hose, the alternator, and I am redoing some wire looms now to make it look new. I hate shoddy wiring bundles. Tonight is going to be a long night, as I want to get most of the interior and accessories installed. I will be dropping off my exhaust to get the O2 fitting welded in today at lunch. Progress marches on.

My hell super tones have a relay that came with them. I would probably need to replace the OEM one for the Hella one, but I am not sure. Better to be safe than sorry. THE FSM says the relay is located "on the left side dash side panel" Is that near the hood release handle? Also has anybody else hooked these up? Did you use the Hella relay or the OEM one.

engine and tranny back in, alternator hooked up, lower radiator hose hooked up. Fan hooked up. Rubber grommets in between the radiator and the the frame of the car. Tomorrow night, driveshaft, starter, slave cylinder and new Hella Horns.

I found a place to rot out my old radiator to ensure it is in good working condition. I am keeping that in my back pocket. I already paid money for this new shiny radiator. I sort of want to use it. Tonight I have to get the engine and transmission back in the car. That is the plan anyway. Then I can get the starter and alternator wired up. After that it is on to the exhaust and intake side. That should be a good time. Pics to follow.

And there was much swearing... followed by much condemnation of peoples mothers I had never met... But I finally got the transmission out. I removed the cover with 5 bolts. There were three visible pushrod ends visible. One was sticking out. Before I moved any of rods, I moved the transmission into first and second and one of the rods that was flush with the bell housing was moving back and forth. AHA. They all must have to do that. I pushed the rod that was sticking out back in to flush, and the one in the middle in a notch. Low and behold, the tail shaft spins, the car shifts into 1,2,3,4, and reverse. The Lord said let there be gears...and there were 4, and they were good. Well I took a victory lap, but that proved to be too early and premature. I tried to get the transmission back in the car with the engine still in it. Let me be perfectly clear on this. trying to align that transmission back onto the splines of the clutch disk is nothing short of a bitch with that engine still in the car. Could be the car was not jacked up enough, could be I had the engine at just the wrong angle, but it could be that it is just a B$##H. I finally gave up even after trying the head bolts to line things up. I pulled the freaking engine again. Once I had the engine on the stand and the transmission on the trans dolly, it was again a piece of cake. I must admit I lost my cool trying to get this thing back together. I cussed more than a New Jersey Italian Prisoner. Finally I had just stop and take a break before tools started to get airborne! HAHA, but it is together.

noted Steve, Scott at z car source said I should just push them all in as far as they will go.