Zedyone_kenobi

towing her. I am bringing a bunch of spares with me, including an entire set of VTO rims and new tires. No way I do not finish this rally!!!! This is what I am bringing Timing light my entire assortment of Weber Jets and tools My valve lash adjustment go/no go feeler gauges An extra distributor, and an extra pertronix for that distributor. 2 sets of spark plugs An extra belt An extra radiator hose Octane booster in case I cannot get 93 octane gas complete set of metric wrenches and standard wrenches needed for my AN fittings complete set of screwdrivers complete set of sockets wire ties duct tape extra wire slave cylinder DOT4 brake fluid 4 VTO LeMans wheels/tires all my personal clothing and supplies video camera, DSLR and go pro Lap top phone charger and computer charger extra fuel pump and the list goes on and on. So yeah, I am bringing the truck for one last run. THen I will sell the truck and get back into a fun car, but that is a thread for elsewhere.

How about these blasts from the not to distant past.. This is one of my favorites.. an original 1974 Datsun car brochure. Has a nice two page spread of the 74 260Z It is amazing what my previous owner kept, but looking through the history of a car is just so much fun. Also the level of support for the cars that Datsun provided was amazing. I mean full on race parts from the dealer. The closest thing I can compare it to is Ford Racing parts department. Just amazing.

it is a 4 wheeled car, but with the front two tires so close together, it has more drawbacks of a trike then advantages of a 4 wheel car. I am sure they did their homework, but this thing is just to darned fragile and slightly unstable. Incidental contact should not send you flying. It was not like he was T-boned. That kind of rubbing happens every week in the continental tire challenge. At least everybody is okay. Maybe they learned something from all of that.

That was simply epic. I sense many a go pro was used in the making of that video...

tomohawk, with the mallory, the number 6 plug wire is about 2 inches further away from where it should be. So all the Taylor premade stuff will not fit any more. The OEM NGK are plently long and do fit quite well, but I wanted non resistor type wires for the uber low resistance. It probably does not make bit of difference performance wise on my mild 2.8. But I figure you can never have too healthy an ignition system.

Thanks for injecting some logic into my completely illogical rant blue Ninja, I did not like the color if I recall. It is a bit, no not a bit, it is extremely ridiculous. But all this took place over 3 years so it the spark plug wire fiasco was not nearly as crazy as it sounds... It was fun writing it up as such though

Meh, I know what I want... If that makes me crazy so be it. But, If performance is most important then you will want the THUNDERVOLT wires...they are very nice.. I will shoot you a PM.

I wanted to talk about spark plug wires for a while. I had a set of Taylor wires on my car forever. They worked fine, but since then I have been through the gambit of wires and long story short, I have 5 sets I need to be rid of. How does one come across 5 sets of spark plug wires...humm... How do I tell this story without sounding like a tool. Well guess I just better come out with it. My car started with blue taylor spiro pro wires. They worked great on the OEM dizzy. BUT I did not like the blue. So fast forward later I bought a set of OEM replacements thinking they would be black like in so many pictures I had seen. Well the NGK's wires that came in were not black, they were a nice blue. This is not what I wanted. But they were nice looking. I measured the resistance through each of the wires. Blue Taylor Spiro Pro cylinder #6 = 890 ohms NGK OEM wires #6 = 6800 ohms Well needless to say I wanted to run the Blue Taylor Plugs. However, I wanted RED wires at the time. So I ordered a set of RED Taylor Spiro Pro wires and ran those for a while. Red Taylor Spiro Pro cylinder #6 = 810 ohms I then later decided I really wanted to get the black wires I had originally wanted in the first place, so I splurged and got the THUNDERBOLT 8.2mm wires. I put these on and immediately did not like them. At this point I considered checking into an 12 step program, I put the red Taylor wires back on. But for reference I checked the resistance on the THUNDERBOLTS to see if the extra cost is worth it. Black Taylor Thunderbolt 8.2 mm cylinder #6 wire = 119 ohms (this is crazy good!!) So I was running the Red Wires, and these worked great up until I got my new L28 built and installed my Mallory Distributor. Well with the oil pump shaft clocked at 11:35 at TDC like it is suppose to be I dropped in the dizzy. It does not exactly point to number 1 like an OEM distributor does. Mallory is aware of this and they said that is just the way it is designed. Since I am not going to drop the oil pump and turn the shaft, I figured I would deal with it. I am pointing to number one position on the Mallory cap here...notice it is off by about two places to far clockwise. When attaching the Red Taylor Spiro Pro wires, the number 6 cylinder would not fit properly in the OEM valve cover wire mounts and is stretched TIGHT over the valve cover. Not what you really want. So I compared lengths and it seemed like number 5 was longer in the Taylor kits and I figured another set of Taylor Spiro Pro red wires would give me another number 5 wire that I could use for my number 6 cylinder. So I ordered ANOTHER red set of Taylor Spiro Pro and long story short (no pun intended) the number 5 in this kit was not long enough!!! :stupid: Great quality control Taylor now things were getting serious. I had about had it. So I quickly threw open my laptop and quickly ordered one of those custom sets of spark plug wires that you cut and terminate yourself! THIS would solve my problem...But here is the lesson in this story. Never Order angry or in a hurry. In my haste, I did not notice I ordered RESISTOR style wires. This was a Taylor Spiro Pro Resistor style wire. Taylor Spiro Pro Resistor Style Wire Universal kit #6 cylinder = 7700 ohms (this is particularly interesting as the OEM NGK's were BETTER) So what is a guy to do who wants RED, high quality, low resistance, wires that fit in the OEM locations? Simple he orders ANOTHER set of wires! LOLLOL This time I went with the MSD Super wires that are customizable to whatever length you want. They are rated at 50ohms/ft, and most importantly, (I cannot stress this enough) they are red. So long story short, sometimes quality wires are not as good as OEM, and other times, they are in fact worth every single penny. So, anybody want to buy some barely out of the box spark plug wires.... Top is the RED Taylor Spiro Pro Second from tip is the THUNDERBOLT wires Third from the top are the blue Taylor Spiro Pro wires On the bottom are the custom Resistor style custom Taylor Spiro Pro wires I am currently running the OEM wires on the Z (as seen in the top pic) until my new ultra low resistance wires come in Yes I am crazy...No I am not proud of it. :paranoid:

It would seem the deltawing has some serious issues with even the slightest incidental contact. That could be a problem in a race. Yes that was the Porsches fault, clearly. But that should not cause a car to go Topsy Turvy like that. The shape of the car is not really an asset in this case. time will tell... but things like this are not good for publicity.

I actually did that rare earth magnet trick on my car. The problem is the covers are not perfectly shaped to the scoops. The are close, and I can get two magnets to attach to the scoop with no issues, but getting the third one is a bit difficult without it pulling off. I am using one magnet about 9mm in diameter on each tab that was epoxied together. I had issues with the epoxy holding. You really need to scuff up the surfaces. I have never driven with the covers as I am not totally sold on the ability of the magnets to hold on to them. I may try again, as I will be trailering my car to a rally soon and I want to protect my headlights.

I got a set of those as well. They were way too lean at steady cruise

25 days and counting Tasks left are to assemble spares parts list, travel tools needed. Perform one last valve lash check and carb sync. Reservations are confirmed and the clock is ticking

Thanks Leon~!

Very interesting thread for sure! I am very tempted to try the hypojets, but the cost is so scary. Seems Keith still uses the weber idle jet for the most part. I have had great luck with the 55F9 idle jet. But my mileage is not stellar. But here is the kicker. I pulled my plugs after a long drive on the free way and I am running a beautiful shade of light brown. I mean spot on perfect. It would seem his fancy etube is something to strongly consider. Just the price of entry is daunting especially since I probably have 300 dollars in jets as is.

How is it all the other interior parts of this car are so clean, and the shift boot is completely destroyed?

I was looking into those, but the prices get big quick. Rob, can you tell us what you were running prior to the hypojets?

guys have a great day, take lots of pictures and notes!!!

Best is really relative. Things to look for.. How easy is removal (for valve adjustments and the like) how much clearance does it provide for your wires and accessories Other than that, you are putting a straight tube in tension. They will all be strong enough to do the job in tension. So strength is about equal to all of them. So get what is easy to work around and what looks good.

That black paint is just delicious.

The 260 was fuel injected? I thought it had flattops?

I wish I knew. Mine burnt off a long time ago.

If you have a 240Z dizzy now, go to http://www.advanceddistributors.com He can totally rebuild your OEM one at a very reasonable price. I have run one for 2 years with zero issues.

Good News! The Mallory LIVES! I just took what Carl said to heart, and my final configuration is this RED wire from Mallory to 12.4V ballast resistor BROWN wire to a chassis ground GREEN wire to negative terminal of the coil. Car started right up! I was able to get 15 deg BTDC at idle and it maxes out at 30 or 31 deg BTDC. The idle feels great, the car fired up cold and stayed running with much more ease at 15 deg BTDC. I was happy to hear her run on the mallory. ONly annoyance now is that the rotor does not point anywhere near where it is suppose to. When I dropped in the Mallory, the detent for the rotor to go on was about 100 degrees out of whack. I was able to just move the wires over, but keeping the OEM clocking of the wires would be great since the number 6 wire is so stretched I can barely reach the dizzy. May have to get some custom wires and make one wire a custom length just for number 6 But for now I am thrilled. Need to make new wire covers and organize everything, but this is great. Cannot wait to feel what 15 deg BTDC static feels like.

I will give it a try at 12.4 volts. I am determined to use my Mallory, since I already bought the recurve kit for it. I have it set to give 16 Deg total advance. 14 static and 16 mechanical will give me about 30 at 2800 rpm if you believe the spring curves they give you. So I have to get this dizzy in my car. I am currently running a custom recurved dizzy form www.advancedistributors.com, and it has been working flawlessly. But it has about 20 deg of mechanical advance, so I have to run about 10 BTDC at idle to avoid pinging (10.5:1 compression on new engine) when I load up the engine hard. I bought this Mallory so I could run about 14 deg BTDC and still keep my engine happy with about 30 deg total. So getting this darn thing to work correctly is mandatory!!!! Webers like a lot of initial advance!!

I will give it a try at 12.4 volts. I am determined to use my Mallory, since I already bought the recurve kit for it. I have it set to give 16 Deg total advance. 14 static and 16 mechanical will give me about 30 at 2800 rpm if you believe the spring curves they give you. So I have to get this dizzy in my car. I am currently running a custom recurved dizzy form www.advancedistributors.com, and it has been working flawlessly. But it has about 20 deg of mechanical advance, so I have to run about 10 BTDC at idle to avoid pinging (10.5:1 compression on new engine) when I load up the engine hard. I bought this Mallory so I could run about 14 deg BTDC and still keep my engine happy with about 30 deg total. So getting this darn thing to work correctly is mandatory!!!! Webers like a lot of initial advance!!