Oiluj

I just used a 6 point socket on a breaker bar and a 3 lb. dead blow hammer. Engine compression was enough resistance on the flywheel with the impact. All bolts came out fine without and scarring of the heads.

Rodger, Welcome! Also, I'm jealous of the facilities and equipment you have available! Post photos.

I used Duplicolor "graphite" on my finisher plates. It's a semi-gloss paint so it's not too shiney but still easy to clean. Black or gray on the finishers both look good. Really just a matter of personal preference.

Welcome! Very nice looking car.

I'll second the great pics comment! Looking forward to seeing more as the project progresses.

I have had the same experience as Arne in my inquiries regarding reproducing the "old school" style banner. So far, no joy.

Sweet! I've always wanted a 246 Dino. Won't happen in this lifetime...

From what I understand, they are unobtainium... Thinking of trying to make one.

Nothing special. 1997 Lexus ES 300 1996 Lexus SC 300 This summer: 1972 240Z !

No stripes. While I like the stripes on white, on the dark paint with the JDM headlight covers, the car looks far "sleeker" without them. Just my 2 cents...

I've pretty much given-up on using the MSA interior vinyl kit. 1) The headliner has bubbles between the pad and vinyl cover. Can't be fixed. 2) Most of the sewn parts don't fit properly. The strut tower covers don't fit and are too small...! 3) The vertical panel cover behind the seats has a 3/8" gap around the transmission tunnel exit. 4) The transmission tunnel had to be dis-assembled, (the rear 6"), to make it fit. My car's body is original, never been hit and unmolested. I know there is variation chassis-to-chassis, but the problems with the kit far exceed what should be expected. I bought some "diamond" pattern vinyl and am using that to make my own vinyl parts. I'm having a local upholstery shop sew & install the rear shock tower vinyl. Anybody else have the same experience with the MSA kit?

I echo the above posts. Value is dependant on a number of factors. Several years ago, collectible cars were worth about 30% more than in today's economy... Condition is a key factor, as is rarity and location. From my perspective, it's what you are willing to spend or need to get from your vehicle. I'll have about $24 K in mine when finished. Of course, I paid a premium for mine during an "up" market. Still, smarter shopping on my part might have saved me $5 K. I'm not planning to sell mine, so it really doesn't matter... Just my 2 cents...

Very Nice! And for 25% of the going rate for a higher-end paint job... I think you got a great deal!

MSA sells a set that's got the curved corners that mount without drilling holes. I have a set I'm not using. Found the original larger curved types that required rilling that I like better. Remember, holes can be filled and painted over...

Just got back from a vacation to "The Big Easy" with my bride of 25 years... Looked around but saw no Z's, of any kind! Did see a nice looking race-prepped Ferarri 355 parked in the French Quarter during the Jazz Fest. Shoulda asked the question *before* leaving California, but will ask before I travel anywhere else... Going to SoCal (San Diego area ) on business in the next week or so, but it's just a quick overnite gig, so it's unlikely I can meet-up with anyone.

Looks pretty darn nice to me! Will have to see if I can see one in-person...

Late entry, but I prefer the look of the BRE spook w/ ducts best. Functional and pretty. Even more functional without the air ducts. Most air dams are too "ricer" looking to my tastes, but the less dramatic looking ones are OK. Just my 2 cents...

Where did you get the speed bleeders? Do you have manufacturer & part number?

If I could afford it... A 246 Dino, Lambo Muiria or a GT40 replica. Still out of my price range, but within reach: a Sunbeam Tiger or Cobra replica... Within actual price range... - really liked my 1960 MGA. Also like TR6's, older Alfa's and late 90's RX7's. I also agree with Johhny Rock on the Volvo P1800 Wagon's that they great looking cars.

FWIW, on my previous Z, I added thin, soft neoprene strip to the outer contact surfaces and center. Was not obvious and completely eliminated the rattle.

So what wasa the outcome? Did the car look OK?

It's a very reasonable post. I for one am interested to see how many fall into the "it's got to be 100% original category... They are building concours cars for show, and then there are some just want originality. On the flip side, I think most of us just want nice drivers and there are those who significantly modify their cars. I fall into the third group. For the latter two groups, repo parts are often a good choice.

Looks pretty good from the pics, with exception of the poorly fitted after-market driver's seat cover. Problem is pics don't show the defects well. However, if it's really rust free, looks to me like a solid car to drive or refresh. You are close enough that it's only a 4-5 hour drive or a 1-1/2 hour flight. If it were me, I'd go take a look at it this weekend.

Got my dealer after-market style, bolt-on louvers for $20 on Craig's List. Was looking at other options and even bought the MSA ones that mount under the window seal. Think I like the bolt-on version better, but will "test-fit" without mounting both before making a choice.

Repo parts are the only way I can reasonably afford my rest-mod. As it is, it's still costing me more than planned.