AZ-240z

Yeah, I finally figured out that it was "AL". Carl Jaeger is a good guy to deal with as I, too, have purchased from him. A bit pricy, but he has found me some very hard to find items. Dan

Hi Ron, I am going to do some speculation, which may fit what you have been seeing. There is a web site, www.new-datsun-parts.com which lists new dashes from 1970-78 for sale. More than likely what you saw, and what he offers on his web site is a 1972 dash up to 7/72, I believe, part no. 68100-E8800, which is a direct replacement for the earliest dash, #68100-E4600 according to the parts CD. Now, this site may or may not be the same individual who was selling the dash on ebay. Dan

Darrell 240Z, Yes, there was a rubber gasket which is called "Packing-Front Fender", part number 63811-E4101. From my attempts to locate these, which have come up empty, they are apparently No Longer Available. If you anyone has a couple of extra stashed away, I'll take two, thank you! Dan Almost forgot, I think you could just use a bit of rope calk to seal these pieces together, but, I too would be interested in other opinions.

Bob, This is information I gleaned from Wick Humble's Book "How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car", page 197. Previous to HLS30-21001, all Z-cars were shipped with an oil-pressure gauge that indicated up to 140 psi. Because the L24 was designed for less than 60 psi, Datsun had received many complaints of low oil pressure from owners, myself included. A gauge that showed a larger proportion of needle sweep for the normal pressure made sense, so a 90 psi gauge was substituted, beginning with late 240Zs. The lower-reading gauge required a different sender. A 6kg unit supplanted the previous 10kg one. These had to be compatible; a mismatch would give an incaccurate reading so they were only interchangeable as a pair. No change was specified for the water-temperature part of this combination gauge. Parts numbers are: New Part: Gauge: 90 psi 24830-E8300 or 24830-E8301 Sender switch: 6kg 25070-89900 or 25070-89900 Old Part: "Gauge: 140 psi 24830-E4400 Sender switch: 10kg 25070-89910 Datsun didn't intend to stock the early 10kg sender after dealer supplies ran out, so if you have to replace yours on an early 240Z, carefully check part numbers. You may need to change your gauge if the 25070-89910 sender switch isn't available. The later gauge is otherwise indentical with the original type. Hope this explanation helps. Dan

Best source I have found for decals and other nice repro parts is Banzai Motorworks. www.zzxdatsun.com Mike McGinnis is very knowledgeable concerning correct originality, and, according to him, your air cleaner housing should have two decals. Later series 1 cars with the air cleaner housing snorkel tube would have had four decals. He has most under-hood decal, all very nice. Very nice, original looking car BTW. Dan

Kats, I always enjoy your contributions to forum discussions. I am trying to put together a stock exhaust system just like yours, including the same downpipe and Y connector. Could you tell me what the finish is on your system? Is it powder coated, high temp paint, or just bare metal? Looks great! Dan

Arne, Take a look at Kats web sight, go to "Original Detail" and scroll down to a picture of the "cast junction" on his down pipe. It has always been my understanding that this style of downpipe is the early part number, while the down pipe with one pipe welded into another is the later redition. Dan

Filipe, if you have a source for these cloth covered breather hoses, I would be in for one. Dan

Just to substantiate what has been said, my car, a 1/71 series 1, did not have the radiator shroud or splash pan installed when I purchased it off the show room floor. I am a little confused by the tire thing. How many of the recent Gold Medallion winners in Stock Class had a set of Bridgestone Superspeed-20 original radial tires on there cars, and, if none, how many points were deducted from there total score for non-original tires? Dan

Ron, My car, hls30-20419 came with the retainers fastened to the floors. As Carl Beck mentioned in the thread "Loop Pile Carpet, Any Recent Purchases?" in post #51, the bulletin said that the carpet clips weren't used until June 13, 1972, but the retainer clips were installed in cars much earlier. Dan

I agree that there is nothing wrong with reproduction parts when there is no longer a NOS part available. How many would, after a nice restoration, keep the old tattered under -hood decals if they were even still there, or use new reproduction decals of very high quality to enhance all of your hard work? NOS decals? I don't think so! Didn't we have a discussion some time ago about resolving some of these questions of originality by adding an "Unrestored Original" catagory to the Stock Class at National Z Car Shows? There aren't many unmolested orignal 240z cars around anymore that could qualify for a #1 or #2 car. If you don't happen to own one of these, should you be penalized or disqualified or not allowed to compete in our shows? All of this would be totally counter-productive and have a large negative impact on our hobby in my opinion. Just my thoughts, Dan

I was trying to think of the name of this stuff, too, the other day. A body shop gave me a couple of feet of a black, very sticky, rope calk. It stays soft and sticky forever and is perfect mounting the plastic sheets under door panels. I also used it for backing up the pins when mounting emblems as it has very strong holding power. I'll let you know when I remember a specific name for this calk material. Dan

Thanks Will. I am still not totally convinced, but maybe Chris will see this for further varification. Are you still thinking of reproducing those little black plastic rounded washers that are one of the external mounting items for early antennas? Not the black rubber dome thing next to the quarter panel, but the thick black plastic washer under the chrome mounting nut. And, Mike, you and Will are in all probability correct but I just can't get that image of the more rounded knob out of my mind. Thanks for your help and clarification. Dan

Will, The picture attachment you show of the heater control slide knobs in your post #23 have me wondering. Is it possible that the part numbers shown are for the opposite knobs? I have always thought that the more rounded knobs were the earlier parts numbers., ie, 68847-E4600. My memory isn't that good but I am pretty sure that those more rounded (no hard corners) knobs were on my series 1 when new. Any opinions from anyone? Thanks. If I knew how, I would add the picture from your thread, Will. Dan

I noticed one of the rubber floor plugs in the rear deck floor has been painted over with the red. Pop that plug out and you may seen the original color around the edge of that drain hole. Dan

The right red, white, and blue Monroney sticker that 26th-Z shows here in his post #14 is the one that came with my 1/71 series 1 car if that helps anyone identify the correct format for there car. Dan

Unkle, I feel your pain and am going to outline my recommendations in finding probable sources of exhaust leaks. I am assuming we are talking about hls30-00538. This will take some time and effort but should pay dividends. You need to expose all the manufactured holes in the rear of your car. To do this, roll the carpet and any padding forward of the strut towers. Next , remove the plastic interior quarter panels, the plastic tail light panel, and the louvered interior rear deck hatch trim panel. Around the edge of the metal rear deck floor from the back of one wheel well, across the rear edge, and up to the other wheel well, you will see a verticle lip spot welded to the associated quarters and rear tail light housings. Check these mated surfaces for any gaps, either from looking inside or crawling under the car with a flashlight. Use a calk of your choice ( rope calk, or various tube calks) to fill any gaps. Next, starting inside the left quarter panel area, the antenna drain mast needs to have a good grommet in the floor. The spare tire well needs good plugs in any drain holes. The rear deck has two drain holes in the aft corners which need good plugs. Along the aft edge of the rear deck, there are three grommets, two for fuel hoses and one for a harness wire that need good grommets. The tail lights are sealed to the tail light panel with rubber weatherstripping which rots after time and needs to be replaced. You will, also, notice a small wire for the license plate light passing through the tail light panel and needing a good little grommet. Moving to the right interior quarter panel area, under the fuel vapor tank there are two fuel lines that exit through the floor that need good grommets, as well as the fuel filler tube passing through the floor to the fuel tank. The biggest, and most obvious hole, is the rear deck hatch. This weatherstrip material needs to be undamaged and with a good, tight seal. With the help of a friend, since you already have the spare tire out, climb into the back end, have your friend close the hatch, and using piece of thin material such as cardboard, slip it into the seal and run it around the hatch checking for gaps. The rear hatch louvered trim panel that you removed from the inside of the hatch lid has two rubber flaps that allows air to leave the cabin. These rubber flaps should be checked for condition and integrity so air cannot re-enter through rotted or damaged flaps. The rubber flaps on this panel were only found on the series 1 cars with the hatch vents. The fuel hose grommets mentioned in this explanation are often cracked and rotted or missing entirely. A source for reproduction fuel line grommets ( and I have no business interest in this source) is Banzai Motorworks , www.zzxdatsun.com. I have used these grommets and they are of the highest quality as is everything that Banzai sells. If you check all of these possible potential sights for exhaust leaks, I think you may be surprised at how vulnerable your car is. To remove the rear interior plastic finisher panels you will need a small diameter finishing nail, or similar tool,to punch out the center pins from the plastic rivets that secure these panels, but you probably already know how that works. This has been kind of quick and dirty, so let me know if there is anything that I can clear up in this explanation, and best of luck. Dan

adamr, To be correct, I am sure that your 12/70 car had the hot manifold air snorkel with the diverter flap. My 1/71 car, very close to your production date, is one of the very last of the series 1 cars and has the snorkel. I can't quote dates, but the terrific pictures 26th-z profiled are for early '69 & '70 series 1 cars which did not have the heat riser, possibly up to the start of '71 cars in 7/70. According the www.ztherapy.com, the late '70 smog laws required the addition of the heat riser for carb pre-heat. If you have the original exhaust manifold, you will notice two holes on top of the junction area where the hot air collector cover is attached to the manifold. These threaded holes were not on the early cars that did not have the heat riser. The ztherapy site may be quite helpful in answering some of your questions. Hope this helps. Dan

John, The oil pan, to be totally correct I believe, should be a semi gloss to gloss black. The alternator fan is gold cad, as you mentioned, but the alternator pulley should be semi-gloss black and the securing nut and washer in the center should be gold cad. This can be seen in the early maintenance manuals that I have. Opinion about the pulley color has been mixed in difference discussions here, but this is my conclusion, FWIW. Dan

Randy, if your grommet is flat with two molded holes for the choke cables, it is most probably the correct original. The pig nose grommet is for later 240z cars, and is the only available replacement at this time, as Arne mentioned. If someone has a good original, maybe someone on this site can do a reproduction someday. Dan

On my car, that big elbow in the center of the air cleaner that angles down is connected to the intake port of my air pump. As you do not have the air pump or pollution control stuff, you just need to block off this elbow, I would think.

Randy, Those covers are original to the Datsun 240z. They fit neatly under the metal battery hold-down frame which is secured to the firewall and the battery stand. Back before maintenance free batteries, the cover did a nice job of hiding those six screw-on cell caps. Did you pick it up on ebay, or from Nissan? The only differences I have seen on these is the yellow decal which seem to have a couple of variations. Dan

Check the most obvious, which you probably already have. Inside the gas cap, there should be a rubber sealing ring which may be torn. The gas cap, itself, mates to a flange ring (not sure what you would call it). This flange ring is mounted to the body with a rubber protector flap between it and the body with three screws. It, too, may be rotted and not providing a proper seal to the filler hose. If both of these are sealing properly, there is not way for gas to get outside of the cap and on the paint. Let us know what you find, and good luck. Dan

I purchased this grommet from Banzai and it is quite nice and accurate, but anything you get from Mike is going to be extremely accurate and of high quality from my experience. To install, I removed the five or so wires and conncector pins from the windshield wiper harness plug which lays against the fire wall, (you need to number the pins and the slots on the plug to reinstall correctly) pass the harness wires through the grommet, and reinstall the pins in there respective plug holes. I hope this makes sense. If you have never removed the wire pins from a multiple wire connector plug, it is important to know how this works. Each copper or brass pin on the ends of each wire has a little tab that hooks onto the interior of the plastic connector and this tab must be depressed with a very small tool to allow the wire and pin to be removed. When reinstalling the wires, just pry up this tab again so it is secure when pushed back into the plastic multi-wire connector. If you can do this, there is no need to split the grommet or remove the cowl to install this grommet over the harness wire. Let me know if more explanation is needed, and best of luck. Dan

I agree with 26th-z. From what I have seen on many early cars, the only blue engine paint intended was on the engine block, and a few pulleys up front. Any blue paint on oil pans, heater piping and hoses, engine mounts, etc., was factory overspray which varied considerably in degree. To attempt to duplicate the correct (?) overspray patterns convincingly would be incredibly difficult and could create much more debate over what is correct enough. To attempt to get it right, I think that one would have to figure out and follow the order of factory assembly of parts and painting as the car progress though the assembly process. Then, your car may appear to be incomplete unless you had all the little yellow splashes of paint on nuts and bolts, and , yes, evan blue or red dots and splashes of paint on bell housings, and control values. etc bolted to the engine. I would think that this would only truly be necessary for a concours restoration, and I don't know if the judging criteria is to that point now or will ever be. The judging may think that an admirable degree of resto quality, but for judging(?), Chime in any time, 26th-z. Just my thoughts Dan