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About mbarjbar

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  • Map Location
    Winchester, Ca
  • Occupation
    Clinical Laboratory Manager

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    I have a fully restored 1971 MGB Roadster that is a frequent show winner. My newest project is my 1970 240Z. It has sat for 14 years, the last 2, outdoors, but in dry SoCal climate. Very little rust, originally green(907) but now poorly painted white. All original under the hood, but needs a lot of work. Other vehicles are a 2001 Seville STS and a 2004 Chevy extended cab LT P/U.

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  1. Thanks guys, just what I needed.
  2. I am installing the exhaust and intake manifolds on my E31 head. I forgot to take pictures when I took them off and removed the stud and bolts:stupid: Can anyone tell me where studs go and where bolts are used? This is a L24 engine. Thanks, Mike
  3. I went back and reset TDC more accurately. I now have 0.015 difference. Still should be ok. Thanks for all the input. Mike
  4. I measured by laying a straight edge on top of the pistion and with a feeler gauge, measured the gap between the bottom of the straight edge and the deck. The 0.009 blade just fits in the gap. It sounds like I won't have any issue with piston to valve or head contact. The pistons came with the reliefs already cut. Mike
  5. I just got my short block back from the machine shop. He installed flat top pistons that have valve reliefs. At TDC, the piston top is 0.009" higher than the block deck. Is this acceptable on an early L24. He took 0.005" off of the deck and the head. :paranoid: Thanks, Mike:ermm:
  6. Am I the only one who has had this problem??
  7. I want to take my S30 block to the machine shop for some work. But I am worried about the oil pressure bypass valve. Some shops in California do not hot tank to clean, they bake the block at very high temp. Should I remove the valve and replace with new or will it survive a hot tanking or a baking? It looks like it would be destroyed by prying it out of the block. Also, what is the best way to clean the carbon off the tops of the pistons? One more. I am removing the oil gallery plugs. Are the replacements called Dowels? That is all I see listed at Zsource and Motorsports. Thanks Mike
  8. Thanks Guys, all good advise.
  9. I am eliminating the smog stuff on the balance tube on the intake manifold of my 1970 Z. I want to put a threaded plug into the larger hole near the PCV valve and in one of the smaller vacuum barbs on top of the balance tube. Standard NPT 1/4 and 1/2 plugs look close but do not work. Anybody know the correct (?metric) thread size for these openings? Mike
  10. Wow, I thought this was going to be a simple question. By that I mean, I was worried the needle and seat would not be up to 'dead heading' the flow. Pressure would be approx. 3.5-4.0 psi. All, in my experience, British SU equipped cars do not have return lines. My metal fuel lines are not in good shape. The engine inlet and return line are a unique piece and difficult replace with new. So I would like to do without it and the mechanical pump. On my MGB, I have wrapped the fuel line to keep it cool. No problems with the electric fuel pump. And, please guys, take it easy on each other. This is a hobby forum, a little respect goes a long way. Mike Mike
  11. If I install an electric fuel pump, can I eliminate the fuel return line to the tank. I have a 1970 240Z.
  12. I have a 1970. The outside SS window trim on the door ledge has a fuzzy window strip stapled to the metal. Can this be replaced or do I have to try and find the whole piece? Mike
  13. I would be very interested in a 'reproduction' wire harness! As far as I know, they don't exist. Nearly every British sports from the '50 thru the early '80s have repro wiring harnesses. What is up with that? My '70 is in need. Mike
  14. Thanks for the leads. This sounds like the way to go. They should work with a new cam, too. Mike
  15. Can rocker arms be reconditioned for use with a new cam? New ones are nearly $40.oo each! Mike
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