AZ-240z

The only differences between series 1 rear deck luggage riser trims and later 240z riser trims is, the series 1 trims have fewer horizontal ridges molded into the front face of the trim piece. Otherwise they are identical and the difference is only detectible on very close inspection. They are extremely hard to find in NOS condition from my own experience. Dan

Greg, I probably don't have a clue, but sometimes the simplest solutions tried, work. The door hinge pin sleeves may be worn allowing the door's weight to rest on the latch. You may have already done so, but, when you trip the door latch, simultaneously lift up on the door with some force and rocking motion to relieve any door latch interference with door jamb latch. Sorry for a simpleton answer, but these parts do wear and hang up. Good luck. Dan

Chris, Did you mean to say "appreciating"? Dan

I can never get enough time looking at the pictures of the Lime car. The exhaust manifold picture is terrific. Could you tell me what the finish is on the exhaust manifold? Jet-Hot, High Temp paint? Dan Oops! Sorry, a little off topic.

Carl, Sorry for the delay in responding to the information and pictures you have. I guess that I was fooled into thinking that the folding key case, much like you have pictured, was a Nissan provided item, given the part number in the miscellaneous section of our parts CD. I am sure, as you have said, they are an aftermarket item provided by the dealer and most probably without any printing or logo in the leather. I'll keep searching throught Google and am sure to find one much like the one you have. Interesting sidebar with you and Chris about the logo. Yet another interesting discussion about something we have all taken for granted, although I had to pay a lot of attention to the Nissan logo when reproducing the master vac decal. Dan

Hi Chris, Thanks for the search link info. I have one of the aftermarket enameled logo key fobs as well, but always thought that the folding leather holders with the snap closure are very retro. Being an old guy, I can remember when most all car keys came in similar cases with new cars. I'll post updates if any progress is made in locating or making these key holders in case anyone else is possibly interested. Dan

I remember getting the leather key holder with a snap closure with the keys to my new 1971 240z almost 38 years ago. Looking throught Kat's web site, I noticed that he has this key holder ( Of Course he has one!!!! ). Has anyone else managed to save or salvage one of these key holders? It might be pretty simple to have something like this duplicated, a fun accessory for an original 240z. I can't remember if it was embossed or stamped with any logo or lettering, and can't tell in Kat's picture. He shows a picture of his under a listing of "Original Details" on his home page at www.geocities.jp/datsunz903/ The part number on the Parts CD under miscellaneous is 80690-E8200 but haven't tried to order from Nissan as I am fairly certain it wouldn't be available. Dan

This is probably a little off topic, but worth mentioning, while a conversation about headliners is being discussed. There is a parts source on line at www.New-Datsun-Parts.com which some may be familiar with. You will find many nice NOS Datsun parts, including new NOS headliners for the Z. Things are pretty pricy here (I think he is asking $245 for headliners) but if you can't find it anywhere else, and you need original Datsun parts ! ! ! ! ! ! ? ? ? ? I am in no way affiliated with this supplier, but did buy a new headliner from him several years ago, with the little perforations as original, for less than half of what he is asking now. I had to install this headliner without removing the vinyl windshield and door frame header material and wasn't sure if I had room to tuck in the headliner above these headers, especially when the roof and headliners would be positioned with a coat of tacky glue and no room for error or adjustment. Well, to make a long story longer, I got cold feet, and took the car to my local auto upholstery shop for an estimate. He said, sure, plenty of room, will take 30 minutes, and cost you $50. I had already cleaned all of the old glue from the roof with 3M Adhesive Remover which took about two evenings, and this sounded pretty good, but still had some trepidations. Finally, took the car back, and watched the entire process. He covered exposed interior areas around the roof, used a hand held masking board and shot the roof with fine spray of some yellow adhesive from a pot and sprayhead attachment on his air hose. While that was tacking up, he used a heat lamp to smooth out the headliner and sprayed a couple of coats of glue on the foam backside. After both were appropriately tacky, or dry, he and an associate positioned the headliner with precision and pressed it into place using a scraper-like tool to smooth it to the roof surface and tuck in the edges above the windshield and door headers. I had already removed all of the interior plastic trim pieces from the quarter windows and the overhead interior light trim. I will add a disclaimer here in that, how much adhesive was used, how much time was allowed to tack up, and whether a final wet coat of adhesive was sprayed before installation cannot be accurately recalled, as well as what kind or brand of adhesive was used. The headliner went in completely smooth with all edges perfectly hidden and not a speck of adhesive overspray anywhere, and he made it look easy. For me, $50 was a bargain with so many ways I could have screwed it up by attempting to install, and ruin, an expensive NOS headliner. Just wanted to relate my experience if it can help anyone in their attempting at this. Wick Humble, in "How To Restore Your Datsun Z Car" book, also has a good little article on the process. Dan

Hey Tomohawk, I am not too familiar with 280 clamps, but I am still ordering 240 wire clamps in quite a few sizes and applications for my early 240z at my local Nissan parts counter. hope this helps. Dan

mally002, Probably all recommendations seen here in reply to your problem would eventually work. I have no exhaust gases in my car, windows up, or down. To smell exhaust, it has to find a way into the car. For my money, I would seal up the car rather than try to find that sweet spot where exhaust will be swept away at all driving speeds and conditions. Just my opinion. Dan

Oh, and to answer your original questions, and this is, again, just my opinion, I do not think it would be worth the money to modify the exhaust tip, length, etc. I am no expert, but I think that air flow over the car creates a fairly large turbulent zone behind the car where these exhaust gases churn and linger just waiting to get sucked back in. In racing, drafting closely behind another car allows the following car to get sucked along in this negative pressure turbulent zone. Dan

If I were you, and this is what I did, I would take out the plastic interior finisher panels at the quarter panels and tail lights. Then you can see the seals around tail lights and unfilled tail light screw holes/ the edges of the rear deck floor at quarter panels where there is historically a gap on both sides/ grommets around all hoses and stand pipes going through floor, and beneath fuel evap tank/ grommet, or lack of, for antenna drain tube. This covers almost all likely areas. Whether you extend to tail pipe, point it down, or whatever, the culprit is still a hole in your car. With the window down, there is a negative pressure created in the car which draws the fumes in through any hole. This comment may contain errors in reasoning, maybe, but it worked for me and I can't even close a door without the window cracked. Also, Banzai Motorworks at www.zzxdatsun.com has grommets for all of those hoses in the rear floor, and worth the money. Hope this helps. Dan

Arne, Ya know, I have been having the same questions. I recently found someone with a set of the series 1 carpet and he loaned me a few pieces, ie., the ones behind the seats by the black plastic tool covers, and the passenger side footwell carpet. These pieces have what Mike calls the clear backing and they appear to be exactly what my car had originally when new; really sucks to not have good recall from 37 years ago. Arne, these pieces look exactly like what Mike pictures in post #66 and what you show in post #99. I took a real close look at these pieces, and, since there is not a lot of wear on carpet found behind the seats, I could not find a definitive loop profile to this carpet. It appears, as you have observed, to be a cut pile woven in very defined rows which may fool the eye in assuming it is loop. It seems that all of the series 2 examples shown by Mike and others are more obviously a loop weave carpet. I am almost ready to conclude, after many years of believing that original 240z carpet was all loop, that series 1 cars were cut pile and series 2 cars were more apt to be loop than not. This conclusion is probably erroneous but it is a place to continue the discussion. I do not ascribe to the theory that carpet type, pattern, etc was a random choice of " Whatever Was Available" at the time of production. I'm with arne on this, as I want my carpet to be as totally original as evidence will allow, or it is not worth the effort to go for good, authentic reproductions. The guys that judge our cars are also reading and discussing these questions here with us, and they are learning what is real and what is not, as well. More importantly, we are collectively finding out what it should be. I am certain that we will continue to prove or disprove other misconceptions concerning carpeting, and I look forward to more of this discussion. Dan

Arne, Is there a source for the correct wire set for a 240Z? I am afraid I haven't researched this adequately, and just assumed that stock plug wires for 240z were NLA anywhere. Dan

Steve, There is an old thread you may want to check. It is "How Close Are Our Vin #s". You may find someone with a car very close to yours, give him a PM to see if they have the decal. Good Luck. Dan

I got my set of Nissan wires from Banzai Motorworks. If you go to www.zzxdatsun.com and check the catalogue item under loss leader it will show a pictured set. They are black wire with the red rubber plug connectors. Hope this helps. Dan

Ron, Well, that is, indeed a revelation. Every key code decal I have seen, whether on cars I have inspected, or glove box doors for sale on ebay, have the decal on the inside of the glove box door just to the left, or inboard, of the latch hook. This location has been substantiated by Mike McGinnis at Banzai where I purchased the decal. When I talked to Mike, he didn't have any specific information about the correct entries on this decal at the time. He is an extremely busy guy and I didn't want to press him for information. I assume this decal was affixed by the dealer, and maybe some dealers used a more secreted location for security. just a thought, but I appreciate the new information. Dan

What happened to your original key code label in your glovebox Dan? Ron, To tell you the truth, I don't remember ever seeing a key code decal in my glove box door. If there was one, it came unglued very early. My warrantee book key code blank space was, also, never filled in by the dealer, as I have just noticed. I am afraid I am guilty of not paying attention to this sort of detail until the importance of these items becomes quite apparent during a restoration. Dan

Mike, Thanks, that clears up my confusion about VOSS and WASO keys. Am I correct in assuming that all series 1 cars had the two key system? My car, being right at the end of series 1 production, may have been caught in the transition with a series two ignition key and series 1 doors key. Dan

Ron, this just keeps getting better and better. My two sided ignition key does mimic your and is embossed with an "M XXXX" code. Do you, also, have a single sided key for doors, glove box, and rear hatch lid? That key just has a four number "XXXX" code. I know mine to be original because thats the way it came from the showroom when I purchased it new. Dan

My thanks to both Jim and Ron for the information they have provided. You would think that, with all of this information, I could figure out my key code decal. My car is a 1/71 series 1 with a two sided ignition key (Round head with Z across key chain hole and Nissan Motors imprinted in black). My door key is single sided (kind of square head with Z across key chain hole and Nissan Motors imprinted in black). I don't know if these are either VOSS or WASO keys. All of this is good archive material as I am sure this question will come up again. In the mean time, I will update with any future information. Thanks, again. Dan

Thanks, Ron. That is a big help in defining use of the sticker space. Did your car, being an early series 1, I believe, have a single key for all locks and ignition, or two keys as mine did? Any idea what VH & FH stand for? ENG/Door may allude to a single key code for ignition and door? Or, maybe not???? No clues in my owner"s manual, either. A pic would be great if not too much trouble, Ron. Dan

I've been doing a search for the correct way to enter my key codes on a new glove box decal and have come up empty. My car is a late series 1 with two keys: the ignition key has a letter-four number, M-XXXX, code and the doors, glove box, & hatch key has a four number, XXXX, code. The decal has the following: KEY NO. VH-- FH-- Eng'/DOOR-- If anyone has an original series one key code decal on their glove box door with the two key codes, it would be a big help if you could describe where your codes are written on the decal. As Zrush has mentioned, I am not sure of the VH, FH, etc meanings, and she has just a single key for her car. Many thanks. Dan

Arne, That's pretty much what I was thinking, but appreciate your confirming it. Dan