AZ-240z

And, that is probably what I will end up doing, Arne. Hopefully I can find the K-D pump locally tomorrow without having to order one from MSA. I also found a Nissan dealer in Missouri that had one in there inventory, but just couldn't find it. They told me that there practice was to throw old parts away if the original packaging was missing. Thanks, again, for the leads in info. Dan

Arne, thanks for the information. Not sure who would handle Beck/Arnley here in Phoenix, but I will check with BAP Auto Parts tomorrow. I called Motorsports Auto and they have a pump made my Kyosan, just without the correct name stamping in the pump body. I was hoping that there might be a rebuild kit for these but so far no luck. Thanks, again, and I'll post my findings. Dan

Just when you least expect it, Murphy's Law jumps up and bits you. I took my restored series 1 in to get some service work done. After servicing gets done, including new fuel filter,the car fails to start. The mechanic narrowed it down to a failed fuel pump. Long story short, I need to find a NOS factory fuel pump like yesterday. Everything on my car is correct factory parts, so aftermarket is not my first choice. Anyone know where I might find one of these? Any help appreciated. I think it is made out of something called "unobtainium". Thanks. Dan Hls30-20419 Original Owner

Yes you should have, and I am excited for you. Total political correctness can sometimes get a little tedious.

I think Kats was probably refering to non-tinted window glass, and probably hatch glass without defrost grid.

My parts CD shows the earliest dash panel as #68100-E4600, followed by #68100-E8800 both interchangeable, newer to former and visa versa up to 06/72. I am guessing the earliest dash changed to the #68100-E8800 with the 1972 model year.

This brings up an interesting restoration question. Were the boots painted originally, or were the hinges and hatch installed after painting, leaving the boots unpainted from the factory? Nice to know if one were to go to the trouble of buying and installing these boots.

Arne, that brass bottle-brush thing is, I believe, called a flame arrestor, and it may still be available from Nissan. Worth a shot. Dan

I bought a NOS grill for $220 about a year ago, and thought that was a reasonable price. I have seen them offered on ebay in the past several years anywhere from $200 to $250. As they are now near impossible to find in NOS condition, I think anything in the above range would be a good deal. Dan

If you are talking about a 240z, the simplest solution would be to buy a can of the correct paint at www.zzxdatsun.com, or www.classicdatsun.com.

I've recently heard rumors that the 2012 convention is tentatively planned to be in Phoenix, AZ. Any thoughts, or is this just wishful thinking by a desert rat. Last one I attended was in 2004 in Los Angeles and would like to see a return of the convention to the LEFT COAST someday. Thanks to all for the great stories and pictures. Dan

Is your fan the early metal fan or plastic fan. Don't think the fan clutch for the early metal fans are rebuildable. If the metal fan clutches are rebuildable, or anyone has any experience doing that, I would be interested in hearing about it. Dan

I will weigh in on the consensus opinion that the welting fits beneath the quarter window plastic trim B-pillar area. I have a late (1/71) series 1 car that also has a oval head phillips screw with a clear plastic washer that helps secure this B-pillar trim area to the quarter window frame. Don't know if your 71 has this screw or if it was just on the series 1 cars, but it helps to hold the plastic panel securely against the welting. Dan

Rob, Don't know if this part has been discussed, but there is a rubber, or plastic grommet that fits in a hole in the radiator support. The engine wiring harness passes through this hole and is protected by this grommet. May be difficult finding an original to copy, but would be important to an original restoration project. Dan

My 1/71 is insured by Hagarty here in Phoenix, no mileage restrictions, but just usage restrictions, ie., can't drive it to work, ( no worries as I am retired), or use it as one would a daily driver for shopping, etc, which would leave it in an untended situation. I can use it for personal pleasure, club events, and the like. To get this type of insurance, one must have a second car to use as a daily driver. Dan

Ron, I do find it curious that all of the Nissan documentation shows the orientation of the hose attachment facing to the front of the car, except the brochure picture mike attached to #24 above. I do agree that installing it as shown by Nissan manuals would be sufficient proof of correctness. Thanks for your thoughts and anyone else who would like to chime in. !!!!!!!!!!!Chris? My apologies to all if I have strayed too far in my inquiry from the original thread topic Dan.

Chris, Mike, Ron Thanks for the pics. All pictures that you both have so graciously provided to compensate for my lack of computer skills seems to result in a toss-up. It would appear that either orientation of the servo diaphram assy would be correct from this information, yes? Thanks, Dan

Kat, Great addition to your site which I reference often. I just have a question about something I noticed in one of the engine pictures in the new picture slides. This may bore most readers, but, originality is my motivation. Anyway, I apologize for not knowing how to cut, paste, etc., but, in one of the engine slides showing the Servo Diaphram and the Control Valve,which are mounted on the emissions control vaccum manifold, the servo diaphram is mounted with the vaccum hose pickup pointing toward the front of the car. In one of your blue car engine pictures, as well as on my car, which have both been restored, the little vaccum hose pickup is pointing to the rear of the car. Have we got the Assy-Servo Diaphrams on our cars mounted 180 degrees out? I know, "Get A Life, Dan". Just something I have to live with. Dan

Carl, Related to your questions, my recommendation to anyone attempting to do a proper restoration of there 240z would be to, first, get a copy of Wick Humble's book " How to Restore Your Datsun Z - Car. This book addresses many, many questions seen in these threads, including yours, and leads you through the process with great illustrations. Now, get down to your nearest bookstore and pick up a copy and you won't be sorry, FWIW. Dan

Sorry Arne, but a 12/70 car, still a series 1, has the same, early, flip latch as all of the series 1 cars. My car, one of the very last series 1 cars built in 1/71, was delivered with the same seat belts as one made in 1969. Dan

I have a small piece of NOS door weatherstripping that I trimmed off when installing. It is NOS Nissan, and just the rubber, as the weatherstrip I installed was the early two piece with separate welting which holds the rubber weatherstrips to the pinch welds on the door frame. I may even have a piece of the welting that was trimmed off, also, but will need to check. The welting appears to be a plastic with embedded metal mesh and is, also, NOS early part. Let me know if this would help. Dan

Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, has all of the vent hose grommets and boots for all of those hoses that pass throught the rear deck floor.

You could mask off the paint work and try using some medium grade steel wool. I wouldn't use anything caustic or wire brush wheels for fear of accidental damage to the paint. BE CAREFUL Dan

I believe the part number is 74986 - E4100 Cap - housing rear suspension strut Page 112 -4 on the club parts CD Dan

No apology necessary, at least for me, Mike. I knew what you meant, but, sometimes I feel a little self-conscious about being too much of a perfectionist, thus my little explanation for originality. And, yes, it would have been nice if Nissan could have a little more accurate remake. Nice pictures, Arne. This will help me in getting the finish close to original. Arne, is the color and wood graining pretty consistent around the entire knob? Mine has some darker grain issues in a couple of places. I think I will use some sanding sealer before staining to get a lighter, more consistent coloration on the whole finish. Dan