AZ-240z

Kats, Flying must really be keeping you busy. I would never have imagined that you would ever sell your Zs. Your cars approach perfection and has been a large part of my motivation as I continue to restore my car. Are you thinking of doing other cars? Dan

Could have meant forum-ites?

Not the best picture, but here is my series 1 engine after restoration.

Goose, sounds like that's what I would probably do with a nice, original part from my car. Please pardon my little tongue-in-cheek inquiry as I, also, have a few little treasures which I drag out occasionally anticipating the time when they finally find a home in my car. Dan

Goose, The 4-speed knob you have is, also, an early shift knob. If you would like to rid yourself of this, let me know. Been looking for one of these for quite a while. Dan

Thanks, Ron. You nailed it exactly. That raised upside down U bracket in the middle of your attached pic is what I am referring to. My fenders are on so I intend to just find some very dense closed cell rubber foam to glue and wedge in from beneath. As you mentioned, my car does not have those other supporting foam cushions shown in other attached pics in this thread. And Rich and everyone, thanks for all the info and searches for this info which I couldn't find. This is indeed a very special place and gathering of terrific people. I wish us all the very best in the year to come. Dan

Thanks, Keith, but it's not the inspection lid bumpers that I am after. The cushions I am looking for are mounted on top of brackets attached to the top of the inner fenders just in front of the inspection lids. The fenders, themselves rest on top of these cushions and can not be seen. The cowl cushions are also mounted on top of brackets at either end of the inner cowl structure to which the cowl is mounted and is also hiden beneath the cowl. This could be a real tuffy to define, but thanks for giving it a shot. Dan

I am looking for the rubber cushion blocks that are mounted on top of the inner fenders just in front of the inspection lids that the fenders and ends of the cowl rest on. Anyone ever tried to re-creat these rubber cushion blocks or happen to have a supply of NOS pieces? Can't find a part number on the parts CD. The correct demensions would be of vital importance to fabricate as well as the correct material type and density. There would be four cushion rubber blocks, one under each fender, and one under each end of the cowl. My explanation may be pretty vague, but any help appreciated. Dan

I would like to second John's comments, just an absolutely stunning build of which you should be very proud. My car is a frame up resto which I had done by Pierre-Z, for the most part, as my skills would not do it justice. I am contenting myself with doing all the little things to make it absolutely as original as the day I took delivery from the show room so I know how rewarding our projects are personally. Congratulations Dan

If, through communication with the seller, it seems to be a car that you would buy, I would take your son, fly out to purchase it, and drive it back to Atlanta. It would be a trip that neither of you would forget for a lifetime. The difference in cost between that and shipping it couldn't be compared to the experience for the both of you. I know, easy for me to say! Just a thought. Dan

Hi Gary, I used a preval sprayer to do touchup on the inner lips of the headlight housing after a fiberglass repair and the inner fender ledges after replacing the machine screws with the correct screws. I am just a hobbiest have no paint experience except for small touchups from rock chips. I was extremely pleased with the spray pattern. It was a nice fine spray that covered nicely with several applications to get the desired coverage. Mine was a two stage. I put the color on with the preval, and Dupont Clear with a rattle can. I had a paint store color match my paint, 918 Orange, and it is impossible to see the touchup. Hope this helps. Dan As far as equipment, I just used a good masking paper and tape, sand paper, and paint prep cleaner. Take your time with the prep and the results will be good.

If you look at the fourth picture of this post, this shows the aft door opening bead edge. If the do the same black across the bottom of the threshold open and then up the front door opening edge to the pillar post, and, also, extend this threshold door opening painted edge both forward to the fire wall and aft to the wheel housing, along the top edge of the inner rocker panel, this will hide any body color which may show below the rear dog leg panel or the front kick panel and the rocker panel vinyl trim piece. Wish I could find pictures but hope this helps.

seriously????????????????

Frank, If the car was new on 15 April 1970 when you purchased it, I personally think that transaction makes you the original, or first, owner of the car, whether or not it has changed hands numerous times since that event. You may be the second, third, etc., legal owner of the car, but that doesn't change the fact that you originally purchased the car new. This may be a question for Carl Beck, but thought I would give you my opinion. Dan

Original owner for the last 38 years, 8 months, and 14 days.

I can only agree with everyone else. Have purchased a number of NOS parts for my series 1, pricy, but very satisfied with all transactions. I have talked numerous times with Carl. He is very easy to work with and will attempt to find any part you may need. Dan

Something to consider. You may have two really good parts cars. Depending on the degree of originality you are looking for, it may be much less costly to find a good series 1 bodied car and build it up using the two rusted cars for parts. Even if you were able to do all the rust repair using parts from one of these cars, I would think that a good knowledge of uni-body structural integrity would be needed to keep it safe. Just some thoughts, and best of luck with your project. Dan

Bob M That just reminded me of a prep step recommended to me by an auto paint supply house, and it has worked for me when spraying SEM or other paints on plastic or vinyl material. This supplier sells very small boxes of Tide dry laundry soap. Mix some of this soap with hot water and clean the surface thoroughly and paint really sticks. Never had a problem with the paint rubbing off, flaking, or pealing with this prep. Just a thought Dan

Will, Have you resourced some of that "exquisitely thin magnetic sheet" material? I recall seeing that idea somewhere in the forum before and sounds like a do-able idea, possibly even in a judged event. Dan

I would, also, recommend Lexol Vinylex in a blue bottle for all plastic materials. I did a little research on-line of products recommended by detailer experts and a popularly recommended product for plastics was Vinylex. I use it on my NOS dash and all new interior vinyl. The results are a low gloss finish that is not as slippery as Armorall and it doesn't seem to attract as much dust as other products I have used. Dan

Hi Keith, I have reproduced and provide the master vac and Hazzard switch decals for Banzai Motorworks. I can tell you that Mike at Banzai, from my experience, is very particular about total quality. My purpose in making these decals was, initially, for my own car, but, once well into the process and hundreds of dollars later, I was glad that there was a demand that allowed me to recover these costs. This should pretty well speak to all of your concerns. Hope this helps. Dan

Rich, That arm rest is one of the dealership provided AMCO after market products that were offered for new cars. I had one for my car but the bad news is one must drill two holes in the console to install it correctly. When restoring my car, I found another perfect console and bought one of the Motorsports cupholder armrests which just sits on the console, easily removed, and no need to drill to install. Original, nice, AMCO arm rests such as yours are not easy to come by so hang on to it whether you use it or not. Dan

Chris, Nice Bridgestone, but I have a general comment about securing the spare tire in the tub. Is it just me. It seems that, more often than not, when someone posts a picture of the spare tire, the hold down bracket appears to be installed upside down with the rubber protected edge of the hold down facing upward, instead of down and against the steel wheel for protection. Interested in opinions if I have this all wrong. Dan

See www.classicdatsun.com. Les Cannaday has this paint available to match the NOS color. Dan

I am sure someone else will chime in shortly, but, just off the top of my brain, I believe that this is a grease reservour found on the rack of early, series 1 (politically incorrect characterization of the early 240-z) cars. Depending on your bent toward originality, it would be neat to possibly find a replacement. Dan