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glassguy

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About glassguy

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  • Map Location
    Iowa
  • Occupation
    Self employed. Autoglass replacement and repair.

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    71 240Z. Bought it in Cambridge Illinois around 2006. Paid $600.00. It didn't run, floors shot, but for a mid-west Z car the rust wasn't in the important spots. I have done ALL of the mechanical, replaced the floors, all suspension is new, all brake lines and brake system is new, re-did interior with correct door panels, seat upholstery and carpet. The only thing I left to the pros was the body work and paint.
  1. My 71 240Z started doing this late last summer. At the same time it started killing the battery after parking it for more than 3 days without driving it because of parasitic voltage drain. After reading through numerous threads and endless hours of unsuccessful electrical troubleshooting of these problems, this is what I have figured out to remedy these issues. At first I thought the ignition switch was faulty. The new switch didn't change anything. I thought that maybe the new ignition switch was bad too, but before I got too carried away I decided to go back again and try to figure out where the battery drain was coming from when the key was in the off or lock position. So I do the thing where you look for amp draw between the positive or negative battery post and battery line with an amp meter. Now I've done this process in the past many times while pulling fuses and yes, there where two fuses that would kill the drain, but I wasn't able to pinpoint the specific thing that was causing the drain on the battery, and it was really pissing me off. So, this time I noticed a faint clicking sound coming from the passenger side under the dash when I pulled the upper left fuse, the fuse that powers the fan motor, which by the way would run if you turned it on even with the ignition off. Another unexplainable problem! It turns out that the clicking noise I was hearing is a relay that from what I have learned supposedly controls the hatch glass heater. The part# is 25230-E4100. It has a small cluster of wires with a 4 prong plug. After I unplugged this thing, ALL of my problems are gone!!!!! Also, when I first unplugged this relay I had no idea what it was for. Only after I googled the part# I learned that it seems to be a relay for the hatch glass heater. So far, nothing else seems to be adversely affected by disconnecting it. I have no idea how this defective relay actually causes these problems and since electrical issues are my least favorite thing to deal with, I'll just be happy with the fact that I dont have to disconnect my battery every time I park my Z at home, or worry about it going up in flames because of some weird electrical problem. And here is a pic of the offending relay. Hope this might help someone else with this annoying problem!
  2. My 71 240Z started doing this late last summer. At the same time it started killing the battery after parking it for more than 3 days without driving it because of parasitic voltage drain. After reading through numerous threads and endless hours of unsuccessful electrical troubleshooting of these problems, this is what I have figured out to remedy these issues. At first I thought the ignition switch was faulty. The new switch didn't change anything. I thought that maybe the new ignition switch was bad too, but before I got too carried away I decided to go back again and try to figure out where the battery drain was coming from when the key was in the off or lock position. So I do the thing where you look for amp draw between the positive or negative battery post and battery line with an amp meter. Now I've done this process in the past many times while pulling fuses and yes, there where two fuses that would kill the drain, but I wasn't able to pinpoint the specific thing that was causing the drain on the battery, and it was really pissing me off. So, this time I noticed a faint clicking sound coming from the passenger side under the dash when I pulled the upper left fuse, the fuse that powers the fan motor, which by the way would run if you turned it on even with the ignition off. Another unexplainable problem! It turns out that the clicking noise I was hearing is a relay that from what I have learned supposedly controls the hatch glass heater. The part# is 25230-E4100. It has a small cluster of wires with a 4 prong plug. After I unplugged this thing, ALL of my problems are gone!!!!! Also, when I first unplugged this relay I had no idea what it was for. Only after I googled the part# I learned that it seems to be a relay for the hatch glass heater. So far, nothing else seems to be adversely affected by disconnecting it. I have no idea how this defective relay actually causes these problems and since electrical issues are my least favorite thing to deal with, I'll just be happy with the fact that I dont have to disconnect my battery every time I park my Z at home, or worry about it going up in flames because of some weird electrical problem. And here is a pic of the offending relay. Hope this might help someone else with this annoying problem!
  3. Well, my auto to 5 speed manual transmission swap in my 7/71 240Z is complete! I couldn't have done it without all the help and advice from the numerous members of this site! The main issue I had was that the transmission I bought from a junk yard that was out of a 78 280Z had a throwout bearing collar that was for a 4 speed transmission. Of course I didn't realize that until I installed it and found out the hard way. But now I know which collar goes with which clutch set. I do have to say that the automatic transmission was much quieter than the 5 speed. But after researching numerous threads on the subject of noisy manual transmissions in old Z cars, I've decided not to let the little bit of extra noise bother me too much. Besides, I'm too busy having a blast shifting through the gears and going faster now! My only concern so far is that it will pop out of 5th gear sometimes, and during an agressive shift into 3rd gear there might be a little grinding sometimes, but not so bad that I'm gonna pull out the tranny for the 3rd time. I think for now I'll just drive it awhile and see how things go before I jump to conclusions. I have read in a few threads that these Z's don't like to sit, so I'll just drive it and see if it gets better for now.
  4. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    So here's what I have. The collar in my junkyard 5 speed transmission that came out of a late 280z, not 2+2, has the "type B 4 speed collar" in it. My pressure plate and clutch disc are the smaller correct 225mm or 8 7/8" style. Wish I could just buy the collar, but at least I'll have a spare disc and pressure plate.
  5. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    I'm almost positive that the 6 bolt holes on the pressure plate are evenly spaced. Also, the guy I bought these parts from was all about big cams and triple webers on his Z's, so I wouldn't be surprised to find out he sold me the 240mm flywheel. He probably even told me this too, but that was over a year ago and I've forgotten that by now. So, I went ahead and ordered a 2nd clutch kit for a 77 2+2 that lists it as a 241.3mm. Thanks again everyone for the great info and advice! I think I have this one in the bag! I'm off to the garage!
  6. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    The clutch kit I ordered from Orielly's has a clutch disc diameter of 225.43. But it also comes with the pressure plate as well and the throwout bearing and collar. My plan is to install the whole new kit from Orielly's and discard the crapshoot that I installed earlier. And no, I don't really know what I have. I'm just hoping that the kit from Oreilly's might just fix the problem. But at least I have more info going into it this time.
  7. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    I can get the collar from Oreilly's, but only in the complete clutch kit. It's only a hundred bucks. I just ordered it. It comes in Sunday. I will do the measurements from the link in post 5 before I reassemble it. Thanks again!
  8. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    Yes ZED, it was a hodge podge of parts that I figured I'd roll the dice on. I knew something like this was bound to happen. On a positive note, the transmission shifts through all 5 gears flawlessly and reverse works!
  9. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    Beermanpete..... Yes, there is alot of pressure. I can't move it at all. The fork has no play at all either. I think I'll be pulling the trans tomorrow. I can assume I'll need a shorter collar, but how do I figure out which shorter one, and I already checked out my local parts suppliers, and they only offer the bearings. I guess It's another week to wait on parts.
  10. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    I think I have the wrong collar. I remember when I was mating the trans to the engine that no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get it to slide together the last 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so. So, I did what you should never do. I ran the bolts in and pulled it together that way. And I'll just bet that the throw out bearing is keeping just enough pressure on the clutch fingers when my foot is off the clutch, causing the slight slippage at higher rpm's.
  11. glassguy

    Slipping Clutch.

    I just took my 71 240Z for its first test run after doing an auto to manual tranny swap. Its a 5 speed out of a 78 Z. The push rod on the slave cylinder was too long, and was keeping me from being able to mount it without engaging the fork a little, so I cut about 1/4" off the rod so I could attach it without resistance. Taking off in 1st seems fine, but then as I get into 3rd, 4th, and 5th it slips when I punch the throttle. So I chopped another 1/4" off and it's like it just keeps self adjusting and wont let the clutch fully engage. The clutch and pressure was bought from a guy some time back who said these would work fine for my tranny setup. They were new. Could I have the wrong setup here, or is there an adjustment procedure I need to do?
  12. glassguy

    71 240Z. Leaking Diff.

    I'm waiting on the Red Line MT90 fluid I ordered from Amazon to show up so I can complete the Transmission swap that I'm doing right now. But then I have to wait for the snow and salt to go away before I can hit the road and test anything. I think I'll take your advice on the brake cleaner when I can drive this later on, and just let it go for now. Thanks
  13. Last winter I pulled the entire rear suspension out to replace all off the rubber bushings with urethane. Since I had pulled the diff out, I went ahead and cracked the fill and drain plug and refilled it while it was out of the car. It never leaked before this. After everything went back together and I started driving it, it started leaking. I had overfilled it and it was blowing out the top vent. So, with the car in the air and level, I removed the fill cap and about a cup of oil drained out. But, even after that it continued to leak all summer long. Nothing terrible, maybe an occasional dime to nickle spot. So could I have damaged the axle seals by overfilling it, or is it still just blowing out the top. I have it high in the air right now doing a transmission swap, so now might be the time to do something. Any suggestions?
  14. glassguy

    Wheels... Beating A Dead Horse

    71 240Z. I'm running 15x7 wheels, zero offset. Tires are 195 60R 15. I installed the Tokico spring and strut insert kit that claims to lower it one inch. I weigh 215 pounds, and when I take an on or off ramp at "aggressive" speed, I do hear slight rubbing in the rear. Add a passenger and it gets a little worse. However, my tires and inner quarters show no signs of damage. The pic I attached is the car with the setup I described for a better visual for you. Good luck!
  15. glassguy

    71 240Z

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