psdenno

You're welcome. Let us know what you end up doing with the flares.

Like @heyitsrama, I thought it looked like the radio bracket.

I used Rivnuts to attach my flares. The curvature of the flare brings the top edge of the fire snug with the fender. There are a couple places where I could insert s sheet of paper snuggly between flare and fender, but I believe that is more due to irregularities in the flare or the fender. A solution to eliminate even the smallest gap is to run a section of vintage VW Bug fender welting between flare and fender. I had initially planned to do that, but was pleased with how closely the flare fit to the body without it. The welting is wide and you would need to cut triangular shaped pieces out of the lower part to facility bending/curving and leaving a gap for the attaching screw that goes into the Rivnut. Here's a link: https://www.jbugs.com/product/6730.html?utm_content=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBiqriBdDnm73bShSLTwe7wbl9b8efluH6ub93oOYRCG-rVc4Rjo2tAaAmZ9EALw_wcB

The front fenders would be easy. But, why not Rivnuts?

I've been working on reupholstering the seats this week while listening to this.....

Not just gasoline for cars cars contains farm harvested content, but also jet fuel. A story on the news yesterday showed how plant based cooking oil from airport restaurant deep fryers is being converted to jet fuel.

For the first time in the 51 years I've been pumping gas into the tank of my 240Z, today it got to try some $6.09 a gallon gasoline. It's got to be better than the 25¢ a gallon gas I used to give it in 1971.

By "low, or no, speed" I meant when parking or maneuvering in and out of tight parking spaces at speeds under one mile per hour due to the increased size of the rubber to pavement contact patch. Once the car gets rolling, steering effort seems no different than with original width tires and acceleration is what it is with a 50 year old sports car.

I have the 15" Konigs on my '71 Z with the tire size you mentioned earlier. They fill the wheel wells nicely with no rub. Steering effort at low, or no, speed is more difficult than with the original 14s and narrower tires. For me, it was a good upgrade.

Do you have the '71 aftermarket AC with the old style compressor mounted by the fuel pump or a later style rotary compressor?

Decades ago when my dash started to crack, I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack. I was an aircraft maintenance officer in the Air Force at the time and knew that procedure worked well on C-130s when sheet metal cracked. So, I gave it a try. The dash is still in my Z. The crack eventually got bigger over the years. But, the "stop drill" procedure worked for years. Good luck with whatever you decide to do to save the dash. They all have a "Best By" date.

Double faced tape isn''t going to keep the spoilers in place very long once you achieve highway speed. Both front and rear need to be bolted on and that means holes. I had a Spook on mine for decades and like the look and the downforce.

Today marks 15 years since I joined this forum. When I bought my brand new 1971 240Z 51 years ago I could not have imagined that I would still own it in 2022 and rely on maintenance advice and encouragement from a global community of Z owners. I would like to thank everyone who has helped and entertained me for the last 15 years, especially Cliff and Charles. Of all the car forums I follow, this one is the most friendly and helpful. I always feel that I leave with more than I bring. Thanks, Dennis

The entire car appears to be held together by blue paint. Unless it has four wheel steering, that left rear wheel as seen in the original ad might indicate a problem. No cracks in the dash cover. Check that, there is no dash cover. As a "parts car", what might it be worth?

The gas filler door appears to be rust and dent free. But $6K plus shipping is beyond a bit steep.

Just did my '71 tail light panels in December - although not sure if it's the same color shade used on the 280s. Sanded the panels, sprayed Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Flat Gray Primer, wet sanded, sprayed Dupli-Color Perfect Match BFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray (CX) replaces T299, let sit for a day and then sprayed with Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Matte Clear. I'm pleased with the results in terms of color and texture.

Are the nuts (rivnuts?) on a metal or fiberglass headlight case?

Nice job with the rivnuts. My '71 has the original fiberglass sugar scoop headlight surrounds and my covers came without the mounting hardware. So, they've been in the box for way too many years waiting for me to create my own mounting hardware. I do have a spare set of fiberglass scoops to practice on when the time comes. But, I anticipate the same issues you experienced with getting a tight fit on the chrome trim.

Interesting question. I recently had my '71 rear bumper off to replace the rubber trim and didn't notice a tall and short leg when I reinstalled the brackets after I painted them. I wonder which way they went on. May have to look at them again.

Actually, you can modify them yourself. Step 1: Remove from wrapper. Step 2: Insert in mouth. Step 3: Remove from mouth when desired reduced size is achieved.. Warning: Leaving in mouth too long will make them disappear. 😎

Totally agree. However, he wasn't getting the kind of help he needs from the responses.

It was probably beyond time to pull the plug. We weren't making things better for the OP in many ways.

Cliff, it looks like winter at your house. It's currently 87º here today with a wind chill of 89. While you're watching the game today, pay attention to the BMW commercial that will play during the first quarter. It stars Arnold Schwarzenegger as Zeus and Salma Hayek as his wife. The golf course scene was filmed in my neighborhood. :

After 50 years, most of them in the desert sun, the interior rear view mirror plastic casing holding the mirror glass on my '71 240Z crumbled. Anyone have a spare interior mirror in reasonable condition? I tried placing a "Wanted" ad in the Parts Wanted section, but for some reason, it wouldn't post. Doesn't seem to be my day.

I recently changed the tires on my seldom driven Porsche. They had been on the car since 1987. Yes, 35 years on a set of Pirellis. Tread was like new. One had severe dry rot. The 10 year interval Steve noted sounds like a good idea unless dry rot is noted sooner.