Diseazd

However, if I go with a 280Z 225mm clutch then I need to find a new clutch fork and slave cylinder. . .......and a 280 collar.

Yes Zedy....that's the collar. The flywheel Eiji is installing will work with your 240 clutch. IMO, your 240 stuff will be your easiest solution.Your biggest obstacle is going to be installing the B tranny in your early car. The shifter is going to be tight against the tranny hole in your early console. Modding the shifter is no easy task, but you as an engineer will figure it out. Good Luck. Guy

You can use either clutch with either tranny. Both trannies are the same dimensions, so the tranny doesn't care whether it's a 240 or 280 clutch. What is important is that you use a 240 collar and fork with the 240 clutch or if you use the 280 clutch, use the 280 collar and fork. I use 240 Z clutches in all 4 of my Z's, so I can interchange, and always know what I need. 2 of my cars are 280's and 2 are 240's. All are running 240 stock clutches with excellent results! If your set-up currently is running a 240 clutch, you already have the fork, collar and slave for that set-up. Use the 240 clutch and you're home free!

Where you been hiding Dave? Good to hear from you........

I don't think you can lock the steering wheel with the column lock (it would be turned slightly to the right and would wear out the front tires). If I recall, you need to tie the steering wheel so you get slight movement in the wheels, but no radical turns that could put her in a telephone pole. Therefore the key would have to be out of the lock position when you towed her from the rear. Sound right?

I would have a machine shop check your piston rod. Wouldn't want a bent rod on the number 1 cylinder. Just a precaution.

Remember.......Higher lift reground camshafts require performance springs and different lash pads to center the wipe pattern on your new rocker arms. If you go with a new cam, I would highly recommend Stage III......very steetable and you can actually feel the difference. IMO

Gotta get rid of the beauty bar and she'll be a finished product........

Took some pics outside.....

Zedy.......It's a BRE type spoiler from MSA. Guy

Andrew......Whenever you engage the chokes, you are lowering the nozzle under the carbs. It is very common for the nozzle mechanism to bind and not snap back up tight. If this happens, you'll never get the carbs to run smooth. Reach your hand under each carb and push up on the nozzle with the chokes in the off setting. If you feel a little snap, you'll know that they weren't completely snapped back. IMO, don't start 2nd guessing Z Therapy settings. You can take it to the bank that they didn't send you carbs that were out of adjustment. Also, regarding vacuum leaks.....just hook up a vacuum gauge at the brake booster outlet on the intake manifold.....reading should be constant at 18 to 20 hg.

Thanks Leon....

No inspections, no taxes, no fees........none! You can drive anywhere for pleasure within 200 mile radius of your house and anywhere for shows or service. You can't use as daily transportation (to and from work or for commercial use).

Ditto that newtonhubcap....I'd love to purchase one of those units.

Virginia is $25.00 fee and it's good for life. The car has to be over 25 years old. There is no personal property tax and no inspections of any kind required! Pretty awesome. I can register the 90 300ZX in 3 years as an antique.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42488-New-engine&highlight= I'm building that engine right now.......no details because I haven't finished yet!

1st post.........

A trick I use when painting blocks.........If you want to mask off the freeze plugs, use an old freeze plug or a pill bottle the size of the freeze plug. Get a roll of wide masking tape and trace the 8 circles (the size of the freeze plugs). Cut 'em out with scissors and press them over the freeze plugs. It's a hell of a lot easier than trying to mask them off with little strips of tape.

Nice job Bonzi......A perfect example of what this site is all about.......restoring one of the greatest cars in automotive history!

What carbs are you running? SU's or side drafts?

Found a reaction disc.....thanks PJOE. I removed the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the master vac.....then pulled the master cylinder back 4 to 5 inches. I shined a light in the master vac and sure enough, the reaction disc was absent. I epoxied the disc to the adjustable plunger and pushed it back in. It's raining, so I haven't test drove her yet, but there's absolutely no question that the disc is what made the brakes work a little funny. Hope this helps someone else.

LOLMy favorite color combination.......orange with a blue interior......One of one!

Wow......The Muratic acid cleaned it up like new......the rust was so minor and cleaned up so good, I think I would have run it without the sealer. IMO, I wouldn't use a second coat. What does everyone else think? Muratic acid is great for cleaning parts for plating.....full strength for 60 seconds or less.

:stupid:If Mally002's car was 918 Orange, it would be in the garage.

Nice shots.......beautiful car. White is my favorite color on a Z.