Diseazd

Beautiful! Well done Jerry......I know you can feel the end in sight.

Look in with a flash light.......it'll be a black rubber disc the same size as the push rod base. If it's not there, it'll be metalic.

However, they are Haynes steel toed tube socks. OSHA approved!

From the looks of the interior, it was well used in those 700 miles! Are the miles documented?

Zedy....Re the mystery piece. I'm pretty sure that is a shim for a fender or door. You loosen up the bolt holding the body part and slide those shims in from the side till the panel lines up. Then tighten the bolt or bolts. By the way.....isn't that radiator from an automatic tranny car? The outlets at the bottom are to cool the tranny fluid on an automatic car I believe.

For $40.00, I would guess they put in a heli coil. I agree with the rest....we try to give advise, then don't learn the solution. Very frustrating.

Don't look at me.......honest!

Sorry Beerman but I don't agree. Give me one reason why grease is better than super glue. I had to pull my push rod out to adjust the rod recently (it was so tight, I had to put it in a vise). It was so nice not to have to have someone hold the brake pedal down so I wouldn't drop the disc again.....came out as a unit.....went back as a unit.

Take it to a good machine shop.....they'll get it out......one way or another. You don't want to break it off flush. Sometimes we need to pay the guys that do it day in and day out. When they get it out they can clean all the threads out like new.

I wouldn't put a shim under the tower under any circumstances. Are you sure you put them back in the same order? I always permananely mark the numbers on the towers before removing them. If they are in the proper order, they will work. Loosen all towers and very slowly tighten all together in very very small increments while turning the cam each step. Also, make sure the alignment pins are installed for each tower.

Ditto on above......super glue it in place as in Phil's pic. Then if you have to take the push rod out to adjust, you won't have to fish it out again.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread40158.html I did the swap a year or so ago.....this will answer most of your questions. It's a fairly easy swap. Guy

I agree with olzed.......your money would be better spent on paying up for a more rust free car. You're looking at hours and hours of expensive work and materials......"Jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it"! IMO Guy

Carl may know......This makes two transition Z's for me. The 71 has the vent on the pillars instead of the tailgate. It has an early tranny and short drive shaft. The 72 has the long drive shaft and late tranny, but the early rear window and seat belts. It has the later console.

Denver Bumper charges $120.00 for each end section and $140.00 for the center bar....... that includes filling the holes and a beautiful chrome application. I haven't had them do a front bumper yet, so I'm guessing $180.00. They do great work and they shipped in 8 days.

Eiji's headed to Japan for a week or two.......give him a call in a couple weeks. As I remember, the price was good too.

Datsunspirit.com They sell cut or pile. I've got their carpets in my Z's.

Eiji and I installed it in his 1983 280ZX on my lift. It's light!

Good idea Mitchell.....give me a little time.

A few more.....

I'm absolutely, positively not buying any more Z's.........and I'm almost sure about that!

Nice bolt kit eh Jonathan?

Thanks OJ.....More.

Ollie.....That's stunning......love the color!

Zedy....That is one beautiful motor.......can't wait to see how she runs. My 73 240Z fly cut pistons in an L24 block with early heads come out of the block .030 inches (too close for comfort), but I shave the pistons .020 inches for clearance....Eiji works it out with the cam grind. Interesting!