Diseazd

Definitely ........fix it!

I buy Panasports at Spruell Racing in Atlanta.....770 457 2532........ Tires at TIRERACK.COM

and....Yugo's

I'm an SU fan.......plenty of power throughout the power band....."0" problems. Everyone I know that owns sidedraft carbs are constantly changing this or that....fuel leaks etc. My SU's in my modified L28's run to redline in every gear.....w/o the constant attention to linkage, air/fuel ratios etc. Believe me, the SU's are very exhilarating! Sorry Mitchell.....

Nice looking green Z next to his white car in the photo display on his web site.......

I have no idea......All 3 of my L28 motors are Stage III......the L24's are Stage II. The L28's run about 165 rear wheel h.p.

Both cams idle pretty much as stock. The Stage III has a little tiny bit of lope. The Stage III just feels stronger through all RPM bands. Jon Mortenson is right.......there is no reason not to go Stage III. The only mod you need is the shorter valve seals when you exceed .460 inch lift......plus the performance valve springs and retainers of course.

I think when everyone sees your thread and how Eiji worked with you Zedy, they will realize that Datsun Spirit is a great outfit.

........a few more items added.

Believe me......Eiji must have gotten some help......he doesn't get along with computers!

That's more like it.......Eiji is definitely a perfectionist when it comes to building Datsun motors.

Mitchell......I did cave to a Stage III cam........I notice quite a difference between the II and III.

Steve......I'm running the Nissan N42 head gasket......."0" deck height (I shaved .020 inches off the flat tops).

Progress......Now that I've got a car for the motor, I'm moving forward. This motor will go in the 918 orange 72.

You're very lucky to have a friend who really knows body geometry. Many people restore cars with unknown accident history only to find their beautiful Z goes through a set of tires every 1500 miles. My 71 restoration was out 1/4 inch and we replaced the driver side clip. I would have never known it if my body man didn't also run a frame shop. Really nice job Torby. Keep the pics coming.

Sivey19k.......I hope you were better with an M16 than an N47LOL. My advice......Get someone else to do your motor work.....you're just not having much luck. Good Luck

The cam tower bolts are torqued to 10 foot lbs.

Have someone remove the oil fill cap on the valve cover. As you are turning it over w/o the coil hooked up, see if oil is being moved through the cam. Just turning an engine over is very hard to detect any movement on the oil pressure gauge........very very microscopic movement.

I would put all new rockers and have someone show you how to adjust valve lash. I would guess he didn't do it correctly......that's my best guess. Good Luck

You can see the centered line on the top rocker, but the bottom rocker looks scalloped.......like it was adjusted too tight, improper rocker geometry or just plain wore out. How many miles on the valve train?

Are you running a stock or performance camshaft? That lower rocker just doesn't look right.

It looks like your rockers are gouged. Can you turn them 90 degrees and take a picture?

I wouldn't give that a 2nd thought..........Where did you get your pistons?

Steve......The pistons that were fly cut from the factory......They are 73 pistons......they come out of an uncut block by .030 inches which is OK if you have the open chamber E 88 head. If you are running the early E 88 or E 31 head, you are within .030 inches of contacting the head. Any rod stretch could cause contact (maybe). But many people are running them with no problem. If you are racing and down shifting to 7 or 8 thousand rpm, it could be a problem. Street use....shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread41395.html. This may help.....