zKars

Wires are now sold.

The good news. I have two sets. Used of course. The bad news. Neiither set has the matching coil lead. I have no idea where they went. The happy news, first two people who want either set can have them for the price of shipping. While they look "ok", I guarantee nothing.... z240@shaw.ca if you want 'em.

"Torn but still usable." By definition, if torn it is NOT usable. And DANG it, I just threw out the matching ripped and schredded letherette outer boot that would have been the perfect accessory for that rubber POS... Mind you, if that thing sells, I'm going to do the eco-friendly thing and put all my "useless" cast off's in ebay and retire rich!

So you pull on the turn signal lever, the brights come on as well as the dash indicator, then you pull the lever again, and it switches to low beam and the dash indicator goes out. What's the problem again? The turn signal lever does not have two different positions which could be mixed up...

The. "Eledlghting.com" domain is for sale. Their website is therefore toast as likely is the company unless they just did a name change. Sure you have the URL correct?

Might shovel some snow off of it to prevent roof cave-in..... Will spring never come? Supposed to warm up considerably by next week, but will take 2-3 weeks of that to melt off the snow pack...

I have parted out a few heads in the past and kept all the various bits. I'm sure I have more than a few shims laying around. Let me know what you need at z240@shaw.ca.

I like beer, and people who show up with beer.

Take a look at the bar they sent you. if its flat, it's wrong. If its curved, it will work. If you car originally had a straight bar, (its not clear what year your chassis is) the diff is in a forward position that would make either of the curved bars hard to use. I'll dig a set of the three bars out of a snow bank and take a picture for comparison.

Part of the problem/confusion here is that there are two different R180 Z M-bars. The early ones, until they moved the diff back ro straighten up the half shafts, (72's?) were FLAT, and cannot be used with an R200. The ones with the diff moved in the rearward position are curved and CAN be used with an R200. Yes you have to open up the holes for the 12mm R200 holes. I've done it, its not conjecture.

I tried. No Sale.

I may have a buyer for you. PM or z240@shaw.ca. Will let you know in the next few hours one way or the other. Appreciate it.

More coil hints for the day. Any oil filled coil should be mounted vertically, not horizontally like the 240 coils. Read the instructions. If they need to be vertical, it will be stated as such. The MSD instructions have this to say for the 8200 series street performance coils. "The Blaster Coil is designed to mount in most factory canister coil mounts. MSD also offers a Chrome Coil Bracket, PN 8213. It is recommended to mount the PN 8202, PN 82023 and 8223 coils in an upright position. The High Vibration Coil, PN 8222, can be mounted in any position due to its epoxy potting compound. " Putting them sideways likely exposes more of the windings out of the oil bath than when its vertical, making accelerated overheating deterioration an issue. This is a gues, but makes sense to me.

Freakin' Awesome!

Gav, were you referring to an oil cap trade for a valve cover? Let me know, I have OIL and Elephant caps.

An elephant never forgets to put his elephant oil cap back on. Simple logic. Dare I say he would also keep a spare in the _ _ _ _ _ ?? I, on the other hand can't even remember where I put my cap stash. Surely I have a few pachyderm themed ones in the pile somewhere if someone decides they need one bad enough, let me know.

It has more to do with your tolerance with dealing with issues as they arise. They will arise it's only a matter of time. 40 year old cars just have more issues to deal with. Factor in the declining quality of rebuilt parts, like hydraulics, electrics, etc. If you can never be late for work, or travel with partners who are not as enthusiastic as you are about the joy of an old car, then, well, you know the answer to your question.

No worries. Just don't stop for coffee. Let it cool off for as long as you can stand before you come back. Other options include, open the hood and blow on the coil or buy an extra large Slurppie and pour half over the coil before you come home. Drink the other half of course....

Always used the Precision gaskets. The fitment and sealing power are just fine.

You're lights are wired correctly. This is the way they come from the factory. The high/low switch decides which side gets grounded (RW or RB) while the common bulb terminal is fed constant +12 via two fuses. The Dave Irwin relay upgrade harness reverses this situation without issue in a most elegant manner. All is fine, carry on with your day.

For the Discriminating few. Yeah, very very few..... I typically would not tease about appearance, but in this case BUTT and UGLY come to mind. Same sap that must of penned the Chevy Vega. Also but ugly. I do like the dash/console however. That flat plywood box with Fabric Land vinyl stapled on. I think I'll incorporate that into the 510. Did I mention I like Butt Ugly?

Is it not ironic that the stock 280z air intake system already accesses the coolest, most easily accessible air available...

Start by replacing the coil. Instantaneous shut off is typically complete loss of spark related. Next would be the transistorized coil firing module under the passenger side dash, THEN the ECU. Dirty plugs for whatever reasons don't act like on-off switches.

Press fit. You should not be able to push it or take it out by hand. It's tight. You can use something like bearing retainer compound like LocTite 609 to help keep it in if its not really snug.

Just for complete accuracy in the thread, 300zx turbo from 87 - 89 had the CLSD, not the 86.