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Jason, I understand the reason for your request. I've been working on this for years on and off. I have a spreadsheet for the suspension bolts that details them, and have a picture library of many of the other bolts with measurements that I need to do something with someday. I thought I'd have more time when i retire, but so far I'm busier than I've ever been. Keep bugging me to re-publish that spread sheet at least. It's in here somewhere already.

Not much at all. Pretty much nothing. There is a seam that sticks out a bit that gets it first, I could grind a bit of it off and help things. I can adjust in some more castor and help a bit too. Only running +2 degrees at the moment

The 510 steering ujoints are the same as the 240 piece. Find the thread about the ATV400 ujoint part number. 510 Steering boxes are problematic to find in good condition. There is a lash adjustment on the top, play with that to get it as tight as possible. Even mine that is nearly slop free with all new ball joints throughout still steers like most 50 year old cars with reciprocal ball steering..... There is a guy making a new K member with a rack and pinion but it requires a front sump engine.

Regarding the rubbing problem, check if the steering stop bolts on the steering knuckles are missing or mis-adjusted. This is something the Z crowd don't have to think about. Generally 510's need + offset wheels to keep the rubber under the fenders. +35's are not uncommon. I have a set of panasport's with +6 or 9 offset and they barely keep 195-55 15's inside the lips.

I have a complete set of triple 40 DCOE's carbs for L24/26/28 etc for sale. They are under 4000 km old. Were running perfectly on a stock L28. I installed them, then recently removed them when a new owner wanted the EFI back. Go figure. Not related to how the carbs were running, just wanted it "original" again. Carbs, manifold, air horns, custom high quality (reads strong and rust free), cable throttle and choke cable. Even has a like new set of K&N air filters. Now the good part. Price. $1000 USD. Plus shipping. Retail on ebay and MSA are $1675 USD, which does not include air cleaners or my custom linkage and throttle cable. First come first served. I'll clean them before they go.

Steve I have a few of these laying around if you want to use one for a pattern. It's curved so not easy to get perfect the first time. As to thickness, the original hardboard stuff is ~1/8th. I like the idea of using thicker or at least stiffer material so it stays flat and stays sealed forever. Nice bead of dum-dum around the outside will keep it air tight.

Cin I'm thinking you mean the one on the crank pulley correct? The 81's had a rig on the timing cover and a toothed wheel on the crank pulley. They moved all that to the dizzy with a nice optical thingy in the 82-83

IF the plug is fuel varnish, then pore laquer thinner in the tube and be patient. It will dissolve the plug. May take a few attempts dependng on the extent of the plug, but it will get it clear.

I'm willing to bet the Bi-lok thread that is used is the tubing compression nut thread end. I searched a bit once trying to track down what that thread is, and about all I can remember it is a straight thread, and nothing common. Doing the usual Bi-lok google thing did reveal several suppliers.

It would be easier to have an aluminum AN fitting welded to the end of the stock elbow than to source a Bi-lok fitting. I've also discovered that you can run a 1/4NPT tap into the end of the stock elbow (not too far, it will split!) then get a $2 1/4NPTM to 8AN adapter.

There are definite misconceptions about these things that need to get cleared up, and the sooner the better. I hope Dave Patten chimes in and gives us the details on the design criteria, operating limits and maintenance requirements. At present, these details are not disclosed or discussed on-line or in the documentation you get when they are received. Dave is a fiirst rate stand up guy with a great range of products and fantastic customer service record, and I'm sure he is as anxious as anyone to clarify the situation.

It isn't all it seems. There is more than a bit of paint repair, and the mileage is being questioned. Apparently the price is down to $25000 as well as a result of what has been discovered. I haven't had a chance to go up to check it out, all I know is second hand. Still, could be a good find.

Come on out and visit! Or I'll do it when I come to the Datsun show end of August!. That sun roof needs to go. I think I have a spare roof skin we can spot weld in. Or glue that new headliner straight to the glass! Boom, solved.

My headliner "tricks" list 1. Clean the roof metal ceiling very thoroughly. Leave no fuzz from the old insulation. 2. put a bit of masking tape in the center of the headerliner so you can line it up with the mirror and room lamp to get the same width on both sides 3. The MSA headliner is a bit wide, but you CAN tuck it in to the edge all the way around the entire ceiling. Do this so it is completely tucked all the way around. Lots of rubbing with pressure to the outside. 4. Oh yes, my best trick. Make a piece of 1/8 plywood or 18-20ish gauge sheet metal, 33" x4". Once the headliner is up and tucked smooth and centered, stuff this slab up there and get it wedged up tucked in just like the headliner, front and back so it bowes upward and holds the headliner in place tight to the ceiling in the middle. Take a look at it and think "I could attach stuff to that bar! It looks cool!" 5. Bring down half of the headliner at a time. Apply glue to both sides. No wait! Apply masking tape to the perimeter of the ceiling at least 2", or even 3-4. the glue. IE, no glue around the edges! You will never get the edges tucked back in if there is glue near the edge! The MSA headliner is stiff enough so there is no need for glue on the edges. 6. After correct tack time, start pushing the headliner to the ceiling from the center outward. Once all the glue area is contacted, then tuck in the edges. 7. Repeat for the other side, remove the wood/metal spline. 8. Begin all this by going to a pro upholstry shop and ask for some "Helmiprene 4510" for your glue. It's brush applied and killer strong once set, but can be released when green with some heat. I use it everywhere on the Z and 510. Go Pro Joe!

I'm liking this, For what it's worth, the green on the nose/front of the fender is the "best". The dark one next. Just say NO to anything turquiosy...

Seems like a really crazy thread size. 16.4 x 1.33? Really? Welll I confirmed that by measuring one. Crazy! Interesting that it's really really close to 5/8-20 TPI.... Rock Auto has a pack of 5 for $2.23...

That's it. I'm bringing ever Jim I know. I may name my car Jim just to add another one!

Details discussed in the PM. Let me know when you're ready.

Here is a picture. Even comes with a couple of gaskets

Glad to help, got your message. No surprise they are discontinued I suppose. I wouldn't use an aluminum one, I think the point is that they are heat insulators, something alumuminum is particularily poor at!

Motley crew indeed... Had enough sun yet? Hopefully see you next year. So where is it next year? Any official announcements yet?

The two bolt is for L4 engines. L6 uses the three bolt. Rock Auto lists them, so they are likely available through a local autoparts store. Beck/Arneley part. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+spacer,6252 If you really want a Nissan one, I can send you one if no one closer responds.

Yup, complete mystery. Couldn't be that it reflects real values could it? Naw...

I don't have one I can spare, but I can give you pictures and dimensions if that helps. If you are considering using it instead of the later style, the mounting method is so different it would be easier to make yourself a custom one that works with your exhaust. Then you can taylor it to be exactly what you need.