zKars

Datsun stud pattern is 4 x 114.3mm. What bolt pattern are the wheels you’re looking at? +25mm wheels will require spacers to clear the tire away from the strut, maybe 15mm (5/8) is enough spacer.

I can beat totalZ and ebay pricing. Send me PM and we’ll discuss

Glass beads will work, as will a wire brush. Brass or SS. Cleans up aluminum very nicely. Then an oil based sealer like Gibbs to preserve the finish. I’ve even used the cast aluminum caliper paint from VHT.

How many times have we heard “the power is in the head”. Still true. Cam, lift, porting. Make’r flow like a hurricane!

Here is my tool, just for completeness and give others ideas.

https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/ Search for “Firewall” and or Battery Tray.

Flat blade screw driver and hammer has always worked for me. Tap one tab, then next, it comes off. I did make a tool to help, which it does, especially when the tank is still in the car. Based on a short 2” steel pipe nipple that I welded little tabs on that hit on those four little tabs. Then added a bar and 17mm nut welded in the center to put a socket or wrench on. Great if you have a welder. Interesting that the Honda ring is so similar. Good find.

You know, we all do it, browse through some marketplace, ebay, craigslist, Kijiji, looking for Datsun goodies, sometimes you find something interesting and you put it in your shopping cart for later. Gives you a chance to ask that eternal question, “Need” or “Want”…. Makes you feel like you’re in control of your purchases. Right… Anyway. Well I’ve done that on ebay lately, put a couple if items in my cart for “later”, A headliner for my latest 510 project, some key blanks for Z locks, etc. Both items were simple purchase, not auctions. Well, the key blanks were in the cart first and by themselves for about a week when I get this un-expected notification from ebay that the seller has given me an a special discount offer of 10% off if I agree to buy in the next little while. Interesting! Decided not to push the button just yet. Then after adding the head liner, about 3 days later I get a similar message about a discount offer of 11%! This one I jumped on, as I was just waiting to decide who to buy it from. (Goliners, respected well know Datsun headliner vendor, not a scam) So next time you want to buy something on Ebay, and you can wait a few days, put it in your cart and let it “ferment” there for a few days and see what happens! Maybe you’ll get a discount too!

The thing that freaked me out was the day I discovered the hatch lock striker bar isn’t in the center of the slam panel. The release button up on the hatch deck is in the middle, but not the actual catch Sometimes we assume symmetry where none exists.

Never seen a published solution for using an extrusion on an SU manifold, but I bet it’s been done. Heat wise, I’d be tempted not to mount the rail to the head. There are plenty of un-used mounting points on the balance tube that I would likely press into service. The stock fuel rail return line has a tiny orifice hole in the tip where the 3/16 hose gets clamped on, this is the stock pressure regulation. I’m hoping you plan on running some sort of regulator on your system on the return side of your rail.

Or seriously, some Killmat or Dynamat foil with butyl backing sound insulation sheeting provides excellent adhesion and permanent seal. Put lots of it down while you’re at it.

Wasn’t there some big Z shin-dig going on earlier this year in Colorado Springs? Some little party called ZCON or something? Must be a few Z people hiding under the bushes you could rustle up.

The “thing” on the left looks to me to be an aftermarket temperature switch, the kind of thing you use to trigger an electric fan on the rad. When the temp gets to the right temp that spade terminal is connected to ground, which you use to trigger a relay to turn on the fan. The 1/4 spade connector is the type of thing I’d expect to find on an aftermarket switch of that type.

Sean I have a bunch of these. I’ll send you a good one. Send me a PM and we can discuss. I’ve had several that stick like yours, it was a pain to take it apart and file in the just the right places to free it up. It was also very unclear as to how this stickiness developed in the first place.

Start by grinding away the flange on that control arm mount saddle to make more room. There is tons of material that will have no effect on strength if removed. Then loosen all the exhaust mounting points and see if you can get another 1/4” of clearance.

I discovered this place quite a while ago and have shared it in the past. Has an amazing array of tidbits for just this type of construction. I’ve bought tons of the 8mm x M5 ball ends and various linkage parts to build carb and throttle cable goodies. They also have larger spherical rod ends to build bigger things. Midwestcontrolproducts.com https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/DMCBH-5 https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/products/ball-studs?tierTwo=Threaded&tierThree=M5 x 0.80 RH

Just ordered it from Amazon.ca. Pricey at $205 CAD but worth it. No more chipped fins…..

I’ve struggled with enough of these nasty corroded on drums to take the plunge with this puller. Thanks for the part number. Just finished another session of MAP gas heat and 2lb sledge blows that always ends up with drum damage to some extent. While I’m here, I’ll also share a related issue we all need to check each time we get one of these nasty super-stuck drums off. On the second last 71 I worked on, someone had gotten the drums off for me, (thank you thank you thank you) but for the life of me I could not get them to go back on and sit flush. Once I studied them a bit, it was obvious. The first 1/8 inch of the inner circle of the edge of the aluminum drum had actually come off (more like fallen apart) and was stuck to the face of the stub axle around the raised center section! Because that material was un-even, the drum only when back on flush if you got the clocking right so the bits (on the hub) and gaps (on the drum) lined up again! I had to chip that hard aluminum oxide residue off of stub axle face all around the hub center with a chisel. So if your struggling with rear wheel vibration, maybe your drums are sitting tight to the stub axles. Oh! And another hint, this one gleaned from the 510 world. Their drums have two or four M8x1.25 threaded holes in the drum face between the studs. You just thread in some bolts and these press on the stub axle face and pop the drum right off! Technically you could drill and carefully tap some holes in a stuck Z drum (with a bottoming tap) and use the bolt trick, but maybe do this to new drums before you put them on to prevent any and all future grief. Here is a picture of a new aftermarket 510 brake drum from Rock Auto. Note the extra pair of holes.

There stuff is amazing and accurately done. Got a shed full of it. Almost makes me want to take on one more major rust repair challenge. There is this somewhat rusty 71 in storage that I should.... no, yes, not, yes. ah dang it... And more exciting, is that they are starting to do 510 stuff as well! Be still my beating heart

View Advert Air Flow Meter Clear out. AFM 75-83 Z and ZX I have WAY too many AFM's in stock for 75-83 Z's . I'm talking 15+ See the list of part numbers in the first picture. $50 each. Buy in bulk for amazing deals! Give one to every member of your family for Christmas Shipping costs on the buyer, paypal for US buyers, e-transfer for Canucks. PM me discussion. Advertiser zKars Date 11/22/2021 Price $50 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert ECM ECU EFI Control Module ECCS for sale I have WAY too many Bosch EFI ECM's in stock for 75-84 Z's . I'm talking 20+ See the list of part numbers in the first picture. $50 each. Buy in bulk for amazing deals! Give one to every member of your family for Christmas Shipping costs on the buyer, paypal for US buyers, e-transfer for Canucks. PM me discussion. Advertiser zKars Date 11/22/2021 Price $50 Category Parts for Sale

Not sure this is helpful. Under just the right conditions of light and angles, I can see remnants of home marks, but overall they are remarkably smooth. First four are all cylinder 1. Last two are the notches cut in #1, and 3td last is cylinder 6

Yes pictures are definitely in order here. Will comply shortly, I hope they convey the smoothness. Long block is block/pistons + head, short block is block/pistons only.

Back to the original topic (harumph….). I’ve a L24/N42 combo in a 72 with crap for compression. 100-20-20-20-50-90. Oh oh…. This was an engine free spinning but not run for 10 or 20 years, cold with 10cc of oil added through plug holes, cranked until engine got oil pressure, which was almost immediately. Not number matching block, so something someone stuffed in. Block number is 90xxx, chassis has 160xxx mi. What’s left of it… So why the poor or absent compression? Did someone not notch the L24 block for the N42 exhaust valves? Bent valves? Not likely, #1,5,6 has SOME compression. Pulled the N42 head, its been rebuilt at some point, clean, all new exhaust valves some new intake valves, AND!!! the SHINIEST smoothest almost 99% no more hatching on the cylinder walls that I have ever seen. Stock 83.00 bore. This thing must have 500,000 miles on the short block. No matter what block I’ve seen (not rebuilt) the stock hatching is plain for all to see., Not this thing. Good new might be, fresh hone, fresh rings, and it might just drive away happy. Oh, and bores had been notched. Someone new enough to do that when this N42 head was put on, but didn’t bother to check the state of the bottom end. I suppose that’s why I’m parting out a rusty 72 now…..

It’s all yours for the price of shipping. Including the main box if you want it.