beandip

did you notice that we could read and understand all , except when alphadog posted with a aus. accent ? I dident understand a word.

This is for removing the pin that attaches the rear controll arm to the strut. I have a tool that is available for loan . All that is required for its use is to promise to pay the shipping both ways and returned promply , and clean ,also it is for membars only. There is no need to beat or pound the pin to remove it . After the car is jacked up and on stands , remove the nuts from each end of the spindle pin .( Dont forget to remove the tapered pin in the middle of the controll arm , that is there to keep the pin from turning + don't tighten it too much when done ) .The tool is then screwed down on one end of the pin. and a large nut is then turned on the tool and the pin is drawn out of the controll arm .In most cases the old pin is reused. You then replace the bushings and the pin after cleaning any rust present and reassemble. This tool is made of a section of pipe and a hardened length of all thread and a series of washers and a thrust bearing . If urathane bushing are being used the tool is used to spread the controll arm 1/16'' wider to allow for the new bushings. Makes it an easy one day job . Gary I now have a set of drawings if you want to build one your self, just send me a pvt message.

Simon , did you receive my email about your impending engine rebuild ? Gary

TEXASZ , I will send a PM ,I dont want to derail this thread .Gary

TEXASZ , I will send a PM Gary

They do have por in a cream form . It comes in a tube like tooth paste. I have used it with good success for filling seams when I have removed the dry white calking the factory used . I coated the inside of the hatch with the paint , I have the glass out, and I used masking tape to seal the seam around the glass side of the hatch to keep the paint form driping through. There were a couple of spots that were gaps and used the paste on them . Also accross the rear bellow the hatch where the floor meets the pannel I found some cracks in the calking and filled again with the paste. I have a great method of shooting por paint inside the doglegs and rockers and any of the cavities that I have found. The ''gun'' was about $7.00 and is a snap to clean . If you are interested send me a PM , Gary I OMITTED THE FACT THAT ESCANLON IS THE ONE THAT TOLD ME OF THIS GUN . I JUST WANTED TO GIVE CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE . :surprised

using the e brake as was noted adjusts the rear brakes as was stated . Each and every time it is used . It is only supposed to adjust when there is a certain amount of play ,due to wear of the shoes. At this point it is supposed to take up the slack but no more. Not ever useing the ebrake will result in having only front wheel brakes when the shoes wear sufficntly that there is to much clearence and they are no longer contacting the drum. I have this problem with my Wife's car , which is an automatic.

It could also be a stolen car. No title ? Hope you have a good signed and dated bill of sale.

I agree with the others on this . You may not have any rust now but most of the liners I have seen although tuff still can fail . Weather from a stone hitting from under the car or if you had to add something or remove something like using a different voltage regulater for and example . If ANY water gets under the covering you will never know untill it is too late . I thought of using Rhino-liner on the inside of the car to seal the medal and for sound controll. I decided not to for those reasons. If you have a 99% rust free car and you paint the bay a different color than the rest of the car, you deminish the value of the car. Reguardless of what color or finish it is if different . Like Mike said " IF you were ever to sell the car , the linner would be a vary big red flag , that would be difficult to avoid even with pictures .

have you tried to ''lube'' the lock ? I use WD-40 because I have a can on my bench. But graphite is a vary good lube for locks and it will not gum up the parts. Mostly I use WD on locks exposed to the weather like on gates and such . Bare in mind that I live in a rainey part of the US. There is a despencer of graphite that is spificly desingned for locks to shoot the powdered graphite into the lock.

Absolutly on the masks. If you do get some of the paint on your skin ,clean it right away or it will be permanate untill it wears off. I use Lacquer thinner and it removes it vary well if you get it right away . I painted the underside of my floors with it and had a smear on the side of my face like Mike Tison , almost waited too long. Latex gloves are a must.

I don't do webbers , but I know that they need to be jetted correctly . This is a start. I agree with the others posted before me.

the last time I used it it was on the home page right side

Lots of great replys , I broke two sockets the last time . I ended up using a impact socket with a brakeover bar . Gary they were not quality sockets.

If you are spraying some of these paints the stuff will flat out kill you. Rattle can no ,but be carefull . Some of the modern paints have stuff in them that is accumulative and can cause all sorts of nasty ailments later. A filter mask is effective for some things but is not effective in others . Read the label on the can . Two hours painting engine parts ! It's going to look good . Gary I DONT TYPE FAST ENOUGH .

another thing, that was not mentioned . Check for tires out of round , there could be flat spots on the tires , if they were locked up and slid some distance. Just, when you have her up on a jack spin the wheel and take a close look. sounds like you checked things like I would have asked you to do . Like Bambi said it could any of several things , or a combination of things. Welcome aboard . Gary

SEE YOU IN THE MOVIES GOOD BIE TO MY FRIENDS AND TO THE OTHERS

MrMarcDude. About the question on the cam towers . I suggest you go to the expert phred . If any one knows he would , and I trust his knowledge. He has been this business for a long time and does it for a living and is vary good.. send him a PM

I suggest you sending phred a PM . He does this stuff for a living and is vary good at it.

Trogen , dont be too sure about the extent of the damage . Remove all the undercoating it the surrounding area and I bet you will find a lot more. Is this rail shown the rocker under the door or the floor support ? I believe Zed Findings sells what you will need to do the repair. I used his floor and am vary pleased with the quality.

MrMarkDude here is a good page to look at that will answer a lot of your questions and there is a ton of good info. geocities.com/row4navy/head2.html another one is geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html

My switches are toast . there is not any thing left .

My '73 had a vinyl top and it stopped just forward of the hatch about 3'' .

Sounds to me that you picked a good shop that know what they are doing. I think I would just ask any questions that you have and let the pros do there thing. Isn't that the reason you picked a shop like that ? I know it is not going to be cheep. The people that go to the the cut rate shops and expect first class work are the ones that are always complaining. Are you going to have her together by spring ? Gary