bpilati

I'd stay with the 4 spd knob and make people look twice when you shift into 5th.

I just purchased the black carpet kit from Classic Datsun Motorsports. It's OEM spec.

Okay, I just went out and took measurements in my garage. My suspension consists of poly bushings except inner front control arm and outer rear A arm, full-set OEM-spec springs through Courtesy, four KYB GR-2 struts, Suspension Techniques sway bar kit, Yokohama Avid H4S 205/60-15 tires mounted on Konig Rewinds 15x6 wheels and rear inner adj-camber bushings. Okay, measurements are as follows: [Carl's number] Tire pressure - 30 psig Front wheel arch - 26-11/16" [26-5/8"] Front rocker panel at jack point (flat section) - 8-1/8" [8-1/2"] Rear rocker panel at dog leg intersection/rocker (flat section) - 8-1/2" [8-1/2"] Rear wheel arch (inner part of lip) - 26-1/2" [26-1/2"] Front frame rail at floorboard/firewall seam - 6-1/8" [6-3/4"] So then, my car sits basically at stock height. Tire pressure and diameter may be the differentiating factors. :nervous:

Okay, I just went out and took measurements in my garage. I did not measure tire pressure, but I think it's close to correct maybe slightly low. My suspension consists of poly bushings except inner front control arm and outer rear A arm, full-set OEM-spec springs through Courtesy, four KYB GR-2 struts, Suspension Techniques sway bar kit, Yokohama Avid H4S 205/60-15 tires mounted on Konig Rewinds 15x6 wheels and rear inner adj-camber bushings. Okay, measurements are as follows: [Carl's number] Front wheel arch - 26-9/16" [26-5/8"] Front rocker panel at jack point (flat section) - 8" [8-1/2"] Rear rocker panel at dog leg intersection/rocker (flat section) - 8-1/4" [8-1/2"] Rear wheel arch (inner part of lip) - 26-3/8" [26-1/2"] Front frame rail at floorboard/firewall seam - 6" [6-3/4"] So then, my car sits basically at stock height, but maybe about 1/2" low. Tire pressure and diameter may be the differentiating factors, which would add about 1/2" to all measurements.

No of course not, it was just that at that time they looked at the various types that were available and these had the best overall qualities. Wait......how dare you question the BRE-Meister!!! It's sacrilege, you heathen!!!!

According to an email that Carl Beck post on the mailing list many years ago, I believe the BRE spook and spoiler were the best combination. Remember you can add drag as well as downforce. Good link Arne, I saved the images.

Old thread, but I wonder why BRE didn't just sell the same spook to the public.

bkelly, I check that out. They have it in rolls too. Thanks for the lead.

Check with the dealer and see if they have them. If not, check with Courtesy Nissan in Texas. They have a website.

A guy at MSA said that they finally got Nissan to admit that the figure in the service manual is in error and should read zero. That's what my new Konigs are too. So Arne, you're saying that zero is wrong?

Gee, I didn't know you could still get the chrome door release escutcheons. Silly me. It's probably the tiniest piece of rubber on the Z, and how many people even know it's suppose to be there. For some reason I have never seen a Z with them, except a fully restored Z. Can you take a pic of the hinge seals, I've always wanted to see what they look like?

I just ordered the 432 rear spoiler from Classic Datsun Motorsports. I plan to install it when I finally get my body and paint work done. I have a front BRE spook as well from CDM. Has anyone else purchased these parts from CDM? How are they working for you? I think there's an article on Zhome.com that shows the BRE/OEM spoilers seem to be the best all around aero mods for the 240Z. Any other opinions?

I just purchased the quarter glass panels, carpet kit, headliner, and rubber seal kit from Classic Datsun Motorsports (all in black). I probably could have gotten carpet cheaper somewhere, but I decided to stay OEM on this. Besides, I'm happy with the others things I've purchased from Les. I had a good headliner until I hit it with the sharp edge of an icescraper one morning. I could have just punched myself in the throat at that moment, man was I PO'ed at myself. If I can ever get my car painted I'll install the new stuff. I never imagined body and paint work to be the most difficult task in the universe. Apparently the new interior panels will not exactly match my originals, so I'll have to decide if it bothers me enough to purchase the other panels later.

How about the little rubber bumpers for the door release lever?

Will, The hatch hinge seals would be a big winner in my book. I spoke with Les Cannaday yesterday and he doesn't know anyone making them. I think the heater control panel and the chrome strip on the driver's door panel would also be winners. The heater control panel is crazy expensive if you can find one, and I think way too pricey for most except those building a gold medallion. My heater control panel is fine except the chrome; I'm sure that's the case for most people.

If that doesn't work use the biggest hammer you can find. :stupid:

The History Channel are a bunch of cheats with their expensive DVDs.

Go to the Zhome, there's a huge registry.

Hey Dave, I've got you beat this time. I did something just like this in my 71 510 back in the late 70's. I took interior lights from my dad's junk 63 Oldsmobile and mounted them under the dash on both sides and hook into the door buttons so they lit up when I opened the door. They were made for that very purpose in the Olds, so I transferred them over. Worked like a charm. It was a high luxury Datsun 510.

I have four 14x7 slotted alloy wheels sitting around with minor edge dings and usual wear. They are straight as far as I know, use to have them on my car till the Konigs. They are in my avatar pic.

Piece 'a S..... j/kROFL

Carl, are you getting cranky? :cheeky:

I knew it, it's Arne's fault.

Praise the Lord it wasn't a Z. BTW, are you okay?

I want to know where my clock with built-in stop watch is!!! Why do the Japanese always get the good stuff?