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BuDavid

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About BuDavid

  • Rank
    infected by Zirus!

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  • Map Location
    Bahrain
  • Occupation
    shift operator engineer in a power plant.

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1977 280Z (sold)
    1991 300ZX (sold)
    1982 BMW 525i (daily worker):)
    2005 Nissan Altima 3.5 V6 (Mom's wild ride);)
    2004 Toyota Prado 4.0 (Father's Petrolholic camel)

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  1. I just wanted to say hi to old friends in this forum, Sblake.. Zbane and all the rest great old people It's been a while since I posted last time, I just missed this forum so much and how helpful and polite the members are here. Unfortunately I didn't own a Z after selling my 77. But I still feel as an owner of an S30 being a member here in this club. Have a nice day
  2. argniest, from what I understand that the what so called vane flapper type AFM, the dirt wouldn't affect the reading of air flow so much in your case because it might be a difference in the calibration of each of those you have, dirt can affect the reading if it affects the moving parts such as the shaft that is holding the door (if becomes sticky it will restrict the rotation of the door then it will give lower readings or might get stuck in some positions) if the air flow meter is equipped with an air temp. sensor then you can clean this too using electronics contact cleaner or something similar, when gets coated by dirt it will delay the temperature reading but I don't think that it will be so bad if it stays dirty. newer types of flow meters which are Mass Air Flow meters do require cleaning more oftenly since they read air flow changes by measuring the change in current which is changed by heat dessipation by the air flow, in some of my friends BMW's we faced a lot of power fading and some hesitation which was solved only by cleaning and there was a noticeable change. I'm not an expert in air flow meters, this is only what I understood and my opinions, so some of my information might be wrong.
  3. if I'm not mistaken, if you put the rubber, it will insulate more, but on the other hand it might stress the differential mount (if it is poly) and for the mean time, if you have rubber diff mount, and poly mustache bar bushing, maybe you are doing the opposite right now.. I don't remember seeing any of poly diff. mounts before.. again, I'm not sure of this point, and if there is anybody who can correct/confirm, that would be good, I think of it this way because the mustache bar bolts right into the differential so anymovenet in the differential will put load on all of mustache bar bushings and the diff mount. for the rubber material, you can use tire pieces, they are made from good rubber, thin rubber will break so soon. my PO used that method, it worked, but look ugly like hell.:paranoid:
  4. for a 1st post, very informative, I had one of the reasons selling my Z is the smell, I also had lowering springs with gas struts, but made my ride superb. but never thought about the realationship with the smell. maybe if other members who are doing the same, either lowering or going back to stock can "keep a nose" on this one. thanks for sharing
  5. the poly bushings you have from ES are supposed to cover the edges of the mustache bar and therefore insulate the surface under the washers, but you must keep in mind that poly bushings are stiff and will transmit vibrations to the body, not 100% of them, but some will. but for the gatlin gun noise, I'm looking forward to see what are your observations after you check again. just look again at the things that you didn't replace, I mean the things you needed to move to access the replaceable stuff, maybe you forgot some of those. have your halfshafts U-joints checked too. while you are under.
  6. is there any website for part numbers? or a file to download? I know about this courtesy parts, but can't order a non displayed item w/o a part number as you told
  7. BuDavid

    Hood Vents

    if you care about the look, I think OEM is the best looking, as Sblake said, get a 280Z's hood, and I say, take it with the vetns and from my experience with hot weather which we really enjoy here, nothing beats the electric fan + aluminum radiator, the heat builds up at idle in traffic the most, when you move above 20Mph the engine bay will be cooled with your stock combo. I used a BMW 325i radiator, a 1990 I believe, it sits like if it was made for the Z! the upper brackets hold to the Z's radiator frame like original! you'll have to fabricate a filler cap on top of the thermostat housing or on a pipe in the upper rad. hose. this radiator has a temp. switch that you can use for a two speed fan if you want, and I think you will not even to thing about the vents later:) to me, I would do it again for the excessive heat, without looking back.
  8. the 260Z is seems the hardest model to find parts for, I couldn't find those fender emblems for a friend anywhere! while to me it looks the best, just my opinion.
  9. I really don't know, but maybe if you have posted in the technical forum you'll get a faster reply. some technical minded people don't look much into this part, so they might miss your post. good luck.
  10. Montezuma, yes, I never thought that I'll be stuck in a forum for that long;) I'll try to keep up posting, I do see some of our old members still sharing their valuable information which is really nice.. right now, there is no place for a Z in our house, sister grew up, brother also getting close to the driving license within couple of years, so we need a bigger garage (which we do't have) actually I have a problem selling an '88 Bimmer 635CSI to clear the garage a bit, hard to sell those bavarians here, no so popular like japanese cars. here is a link with some photos of the vette, I spent almost 8 mounths ordering stuff and following up with the body shop. not a 100% looker, but I'm satisfied with the result, photos taken @ friends house. http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff88/Ahmed_Janahi/1972%20C3/ see you arround.
  11. and maybe youu should find a good front spring/strut setup, those turbo'ed RB's are heavy and will push the nose of the Z down.
  12. a 99 camaro LS1! handled worse than a 1977 280Z, cheap made from top to bottom. only works in a streight line! definately the worse bargain I ever made.
  13. ^^ Montezuma, I hope that you are doing fine, nice to see someone keeping me in mind I know that this is a two year old thread, but if at least red_dog007 trew me a PM I would've noticed it by mail.. I'll be glad to help any of the forum members here or even in eastern province in Saudi. am sorry for not posting here for soo long, I had many things that kept me busy, in fact I jumped into a 72 corvette.. but still missing the Z though. sorry again for kicking up old threads, but consider this a contribution to help forum members from me. Montezuma, I cheers.
  14. wow, this thread is alive!? the curved side of the bushing must go in the cup of the body side. and yes, the car had a caster problem because I found out that it had a fine accident which was enough to deflect the caster angle. but the sad thing is the car is sold one year ago alsmot.
  15. had this problem, look for leaks, exhaust leaks and body leaks under the car and seals. taillight gasket can pass gases also. I had this problem and it annoyed me so much, my shirt smelled like exhaust after a 2 hour ride! a bad air/fuel mixture can increase the smell also. mine was having a different AFM and was running a bit more rich, but I didn't have time to solve it. good luck.
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