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Interior lighting upgrade for All Z's


Zs-ondabrain

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Being winter, it's dark sooner and longer than normal. So with that in mind, I really notice how dark the interior is when I drop my keys on the mat in front me. After digging for a minute and finally having to get out of the car and reach down to get the keys, I figure it's time for an upgrade.

Some of you will like it and some of you won't. But the plain and simple truth is "The dome lights in these cars SUCK azz"

So I got online and started looking for your basic 12 volt interior lights. this turned out to be Mission Impossible. So I used Goooogle to look deeper and found this site.... Directron.com and this link will take you directly to the lights in question.

It's a Computer supply site and I found 12" (12 Volt DC) Cold Cathode Tube lights. Used to light up the inside of a computer case with a clear plastic side panel.

The Cold Cathode tube only require 5.0ma which is practically nothing. The picture below will show before and after as well as cutting off the "T" plugs from the inverter that normally plug into the inside of the computer.

They put off a Beautiful white light when placed under the dash. I mounted the first tube at the bootom back corner of the glove box, using the supplied Velcro that came with it. It sits just on the back corner but not on the down facing panel of the glove box. Out of site but able to light everything up.

The blue inverter box sits in the dash area just above the radio. The wires from the inverter to the tubes are only about 12" each so the box has to be placed in the middle of the dash. **DO NOT CUT THE WHITE WIRES THAT GO TO THE TUBES** THEY ARE SPECIALTY HI VOLTAGE WIRES!!

The drivers side was different. The tube sits on the upper side of the steering columnm, with the wired end touching the mid-section of the defrost tube and the other end just barely touching the curved dash support on the left of the steering column. So I Velcro'd the wired end to the plastic defrost tube and doubled up the Velcro on the other end to reach the dash support better.

Best $15 I ever spent on lighting up a very dark interior. They sit low enough to even light the dark seats, just enough to make sure I don't end up with seat belt up my butt, AGAIN!!

Here's the pics..

Dave.

If you have any other lighting upgrades, please post them here, as the title of this forum should pop up when ever someone is looking for lighting options.

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You guys have GOT to see these in person. The difference is Day and Night. They have a 30,000 hour lifespan and considering the fact that you only open the doors to get in and out, they'll last a lifetime.

With a price tag of less than $8.00 for the pair, and basic shipping around $7. Then again, it's another reason to keep the car clean, cause it lights up the floor boards very nicely.

Anyone have any other lighting upgrades to add?

Dave.

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Unfortunately, They are similar to neon tubes and the protective tube will only withstand so much before it breaks. My initial thought was under the seats, facing outward but I store stuff there and your feet will interupt the lights.

The doors would be great but doors slam, feet hit doors, and the tubes are 12" long. then there's the wiring as you mentioned above.

The two tube can only be about 21" to 24" apart from each other unless you buy the single tube kit (about $4) I love them. I must have went to the dark garage about 4 times last night, just to open the doors and admire the scenery of a well lit interior.

Dave.

Heres the pics of the lights under the dash area on the drivers side. and another showing how you can't directly see the light tube unless your eyes are even with the door handle or seats.

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Hey Dave, I've got you beat this time. I did something just like this in my 71 510 back in the late 70's. I took interior lights from my dad's junk 63 Oldsmobile and mounted them under the dash on both sides and hook into the door buttons so they lit up when I opened the door. They were made for that very purpose in the Olds, so I transferred them over. Worked like a charm. It was a high luxury Datsun 510.

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Dave,

As always, you are the wizard! I wish you lived next door to me :)

Any plans on coming out with a DIY kit like your headlight harness? I would go for a set as well as the battery operated clock upgrade you did (I'm still looking for the proper clock to use in the conversion.

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I've used these cold cathode lights on another project. (Used the 4" and 12" styles) They are simply awesome! Extremely bright. Hadn't thought about using them in the car though. They are a bit delicate and under dash mounting seems best. (As opposed to anything on the doors)

I'm bummed though. I was hoping you'd come up with some extremely bright lights for the instruments. :(:)

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I used the door lights found on a Nissan Maxima four door Sedans they are mounted on the doors there. They are flat and mount to the kick panels vary well and illuminate the foot wells , 1 1/2 X 3''and about 1/4'' thick with frosted lenses. I used the same lights and mounted them in the back on the access panels to the tail lights. All illuminate when the doors are opened or the over head light is lit. There are factory wires already in each foot well tucked up above the kick panels. I have a '73 240 . Gary

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Dave, permit me to go off topic a second and ask: Where do you put your left foot when not depressing the clutch? It looks like your would be resting your foot on either the clutch pedal or your speakers. The SCCA would make you remove that speaker to race or autocross.

I had to ask.

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Dave, permit me to go off topic a second and ask: Where do you put your left foot when not depressing the clutch? It looks like your would be resting your foot on either the clutch pedal or your speakers. The SCCA would make you remove that speaker to race or autocross.

I had to ask.

I've NEVER hit the speaker once. I quess apearances are decieving in the pic. The speaker sits higher than it apears and I can even use the Dead Pedal when needed.

Brian... Not in a 240Z you don't. :D

Gary,

The one place I did'nt check was the JY or Pull a part. I would have settled for less or even a basic under dash light like Brian mentioned, but I'm totally happy with the route I went. Very clean white light that's not blinding in any way. can't even see the bulbs unless you get on your knees and pray.

Jimmy,

I found something on superbriteLEDs.com but they are pricey and I'm broke at the moment. the upgrade would include inserting the bulbs from the inside out. Not a plug and play thing, tell ya more when I find the info I'm looking for.

MEZZZ,

I wish you did too, the Cold cathode bulbs are a DYI thing. Just order them from the site above, cut the red and black wire at the large plugs (when you get it in the mail), mount them like I did, run the red wire to the cigarette lighter wire or any constant 12 volt source. Run the black wire to the P-side door pin wire and you're done. And thanks, I try.

Dave.

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Would those lights work in place of the dome lamp?

thxZ

I don't see why not. They sell a single tube as well, and the blue box could fit into the hole that the dome light sits in. I'd mount the tube on the plastic, facing the front. Or do the 2 tube kit like mine and do one on both sides of the upper support to light the front and the hatch area as well.

Dave

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