Leaderboard

Spending $7.00 at the local Home Depot, I picked up a "tempered hardboard" which is much closer to the specification of the original kick panel. Like the original, it has a textured side, and a smooth side. In under an hour, I was able to cut a new one from the board I bought, using the original as a pattern. I used my X-ACTO knife to score the smooth surface. Then I used my Bosch jig saw to cut it out. Though not planned, I found that scoring the smooth surface aided the cutting. The jig saw can leave a more jagged edge than is desired, but the scoring facilitated making the edge "crisp". After cutting, I used various files to adjust the edges to final shape and finish. As this type of board acts like a sponge, and expands over time as it is exposed to moisture/humidity, I will spray the back side and edges with a rubberized spray paint such as this. For the smooth face, I think Krylon semi-flat black should replicate the original finish well. I may attempt to replicate the slots and holes in the panel with my Dremel tool. I'll see if I feel like spending that time on it.

Another 73 is up for sale, but with very low miles. Looks garage kept. I wonder if the hoses, hydraulics, booster, and other parts will hold up long if somebody starts driving it again. An odd dilemma - keep the original parts but don't drive it, or replace the parts and enjoy it. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-254/#comments

If one wanted to keep it perfectly "as it left the factory”; yes it would have the Flat Tops. Back in 73/74 if one wanted to drive it in a more reliable fashion, they switched the Flat Top’s out for the SU’s as used on the 70-72 model years. To comply with the EPA Emission standards for 1973, Nissan had to redesign the original SU’s, the result was what we call the Flat Tops. They passed the emissions tests/standard, but the engines suffered from Percolation and/or Vapor Lock. In higher temp. area’s the cars would just die, or when shut off with a warm engine the cars would not restart until the engine was cold again.

This is the first time I've tried them. I've never had an issue with the twist nuts, and I have plenty of them, so I will likely continue to use them. Yeah, I'm glad I didn't realize they were there in the warm weather. Since rain is in the forecast, I decided to dig off the south side of the garage, where I had just removed that plywood. So that I could figure out how bad it is. This is as far as I got before my back said that was enough.

After taking a second look at the closeup picture, I realized that the positioning of the passenger side linkage going to the pivot was wrong. I installed the linkage on the outboard side of the pivot, not the inboard side per the picture. Common sense should have told me that it was oriented wrong, but a picture is worth a thousand words. Once corrected, the wipers work like new. Thanks again for the pics, Richie, I'll be sure and take more before I tear anything else apart.

The 3M website says "Fast-curing formula offers a 10 to 20 minute working time". I found that it starts hardening that quickly, but I would call the working time more like double that.

I did run into that recently. My seals were OEM, and sourced by the previous owner of the car back in the early 90's. I was hesitant to cut them off, so I just dealt with them, but they were troublesome to deal with. Ultimately, they just sort of, pushed outwards where the frame sat against them, but didn't stop anything from fitting properly - for me.

It might be in this thread somehwere.

solved, as suggested by Mark I did call Steve over at z therapy today about the leak problem. now if you happen to over fill the carbs with oil and put the piston plunger back in, it will spill over in the dome and come out the bottom when the piston is inserted. I

It looks right at home in the engine bay. Sounds lovely. Well, we can dream.

He didn't do a very good job, obviously. You can stack a bigger nut or washers or a socket over the lug/stud and pull the lug all the way in using the lug nut. It should square up as the bottom of the lug seats. Do each one separately. Those aluminum wheels don't like high torque, it will deform the metal around the hole.

That white 1973 Z is a beauty. That's what I have, a white/red 73 that I've put refurbished paltech round top carbs in. I'm planning to sell it soon. Too much kids college tuition stacking up. Bought from the original owner 4 years ago.