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Was almost 50 degrees after work, so I got a first coat of siding & trim color up

The wheel isn't seated all the way against the hub face. Driveshafts would also be a suspect for clunky noises

And it is much appreciated, Kats. Your presence and participation on classiczcars has been invaluable and a vital conduit to helping us understand the cars themselves, the history behind them and the people who created them. You are one of their best ambassadors. Thank you. It goes over a lot of heads but I've believe that, to properly appreciate and understand any single one of our cars, it is necessary to understand its siblings; the cars which were conceived, designed, engineered and produced alongside it. I own both RHD and LHD versions. Japanese market, UK market and USA market S30-series Z variants. Taking each one of them completely apart and going through the process of reassembly is both fascinating and educational. It is possible to observe the great efforts the designers and engineers went to in ensuring that each variant worked well whilst accommodating the other variants in their contemporary family. Look closely and you can see details that were incorporated in the fabric of the cars in order to cater for one particular market or one particular variant, hiding in plain sight. A good example being the preparation for factory air conditioning that was present on all models whilst it was only available in one of them. Most owners don't notice... Kats, we have discussed in the past how ownership of both Domestic and Export variants has helped both of us to understand and appreciate the cars more fully, right? It would be great if more owners and enthusiasts could share that experience or, if not, at least take note of the possibilities it offers.

Bought this car as a non running project, so no experience with it before, but everything appeared OK. Yes, they were originally on the car. Yeah, I’m liking that lower torque spec. Yep, I have the oil seal, just didn’t have it installed for the pic. Appreciate the feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They were in there before, correct? Did you have any issues or problems? If not I'd reassemble as before. Dont break it, if it ain't broke!

When time permits, please explain your process for installing the hood (and bumpers) as a one-man job without damaging the paint. These pix are deceptive b/c they make it look easy (and I I know it isn't). Also: For everyone else, please take another look at GK's workspace. It's really not very big. The quality of his work deserves extra respect, given how challenging it can be to operate in a small space like that. I'm still amazed by how he managed to paint the car in that little garage. Too bad we don't have a video so that we could study how he managed the gun and the hose.

So, you guys are so helpful!!!! Thank you so much for the great advice and possible tactics. I'll definitely try some of that stuff (next fill up) I promise! This is very helpful!!! Here is a shot of the engine. I took off the K&N filters for now, and just have short horns on it. But man when it's running right, it's a blast to drive!

Japanese People don’t care about cars which were sold outside of Japan. My US 240Z has never been invented to Nostalgic Hero magazine. I know some people still think it is a fake of S30. The average sales price is backing up what I am saying. A Fairlady-Z 2/2 is now pricing double or triple of an US 240Z. Am I sad looking at those things? Maybe. But anyway I have my beautiful US 240Z which makes me so proud. People living in overseas don’t care about Japanese Fairlady Z cars. I have seen a lot of people don’t like G-nose because simply it looks ugly to them. Also people don’t like 2- liters cars, Z432 is not an exception. People don’t need information because they don’t use it for their cars. That is why I am here, and my friends here. I want people to know whole range of our cars. I believe looking into various types of our cars make us fun to enjoy better. Kats

Thanks John, with the hood, hatch and bumpers, masking tape and cardboard are your best tools to prevent scratches. With the front fenders removed I cover the cowl area and sides of the engine bay with cardboard and tape it down. Then with the front edge of hood resting on my waist and holding the sides I walk it forward and lay the hood in place. Then I lift the front edge of the hood and put something on top of the engine, a small cardboard box works well, you just want to give yourself enough clearance to install the hood hinges and springs as one unit so the hinges are in the open position. Now tape the top on the hinges for safety and pull the hood forward and install one bolt on each side of the hood to the top most hole of the hinges, once that is done you lift the hood up pivoting on those bolts and install the other two bolts and you're done. Remove all the tape and cardboard and start preliminary alignment. The bumpers are very similar, tape up the sides the fenders and quarter panels, make sure the bumper mounts are already installed on the car, get all your fasteners and wrenches laid out on the floor so they are easy to grab and ease the bumper into place, secure one nut in the centre section then move over to the far side of the bumper and secure it, once those two fasteners are on the bumper will sit there nicely so you can get to the rest of the fasteners. Expect to install and remove the bumpers several times as you add washers to get the depth and alignment right. I like to tape the weatherstrip in place on the car for at least 24hrs so it relaxes a bit and I don't have to fight the twists they acquire while folded up in the packing bags. It seems like the J hook for the battery hold down and rear P/S splash panel always go missing on these cars, I've got pretty quick at making up replacements I've had to do it so many times.

Over here in the UK, there seems to be "have to do this" attitude that an imported LHD has to be converted to RHD (cost/finding parts) when again, only driving the S30 a few times a month/ a 1-2000 miles a year ( and some of that likely will be on the motorway [freeway]). Then a lot of the time the windscreen wipers aren't changed over. I think its due to higher prices for a RHD model here in the UK, but that is financial speculating rather than S30 ownership. its still a L model at the end of the day.

Agreed, but - beyond that - 99% of the discussion around the Grande Nose of the HS30-H model seems to treat it as though it was some kind of aesthetic makeover. It misses the whole point. Its real reason for existence was to homologate parts to which other - more extreme - parts could be hung off for race purposes. The fact that some of us (me included) find the HS30-H model attractive is probably by-the-by. It could be argued that the 240ZG was somewhat out of date in its styling, consciously or sub-consciously referencing the curves of 60s cars like the Ferrari 275 GTB when the more angular Ferrari 365 GTB had already outdated it in aerodynamic terms as well as aesthetics. The homologation specials which came after them for Group 4 and then Group B would look more angular and more brutal, but that in itself has its attractions.

I put mine back in. I also like that lower torque setting. Where is your seal? It is missing from the picture you shared. It goes in before the axle flange goes on.

Oddly enough, in the US, a stock Fairlady Z will trade at a considerable premium to a 240Z of similar condition.

But is that because it's LHD instead of RHD? I know in Australia there was a couple of really nice imported LHD 240z's for sale, but nobody wanted to buy them because of the LHD configuration. I personally could not care less, if I was in the market and found a clean LHD car, I'd purchase it based on rust free status. Most people won't be driving the car more than a handful of times a month. So is it really such a negative that it's LHD? I don't think so, but people are fickle and funny in their ways of thinking I find. As for the Gnose, I think many people passing judgement haven't seen a proper 1 in person to fully appreciate it. Some things don't photograph well, for example when I first showed my wife photos of an FD3S RX-7 I was looking to buy, she was not that impressed. Then when we saw the car in person she totally changed her mind. I think the 2D vs 3D aspect is a real factor.

Lots of little stuff completed but not much worth taking a picture of. I got the hood and the rear bumper on, tomorrow hoping to get the hatch weather striping in and the hatch on. I think I'll leave the front fenders off until the engine is running smoothly, otherwise I know it will get scratched.

I'm not 100% on this but next time your tank is full and it starts acting up, pull over and remove the gas cap. If I remember right it shouldn't have a "whooshing" sound as it trying to pull in air. Your gas cap could be bad, the top vent line could be stopped up? I have blown into my filler neck, cap removed, and could hear the gas gurgling around. That was my way of testing the hoses after a tank and hose refresh on my '72. @Mark Maras might have an idea to add. Good luck, it could be a lot worse of a problem.

I’d be happy to sell my 55R/L pair. Let’s discuss the details with a personal message. I’ll send you one right now.

Do you have or can you get the grit numbers for these pads? Then maybe you could source some intermediate grits with the right material...

You are right. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delco_ignition_system

When I called in December they said they will be doing aluminum in 3-4 months so they are likely a very small, busy operation. I'm going to enlarge the entire structure using a percentage of around 6.5% to allow for shrinkage*. I guess if dimensions are critical, you don't use cast aluminum which is likely why you need shims when assembling a cast aluminum differential. *Every time I see the word shrinkage I think of that Seinfeld episode.