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Other news: got some konig rewind 16x8 wheels, looks much better. Also, I went on a group cruise with the Austin Z Club, and found out I need front struts big time. It was very bouncy on the windy roads. And my RF brakes sound and feel like they're grabbing, although when I hit the rotors and drums with a temp gun, they were equal side to side. In any case I think I'll upgrade the brakes while I do the struts. Not sure what I'll go with though.

Attended a Z Club of Texas Fall Picnic yesterday, we are hoping to make this an annual event. Great weather and a really nice turnout. Yes, that is my fat finger in the corner of one pic.

Finally figured out a solution for the annoying seat belts in the Z - I've been mulling over a way to deal with the fact that the seat belts suck - for both Ann & I, the shoulder belt rides into our necks. I guess they are meant for ppl with taller torsos. I tried making a guide bracket that uses a hidden 12mm welded nut below the 1/4 glass, couldn't make that work. In any event, I realized the S2000 seats I put in my Volvo pickup, have seat-mounted belt guides and I don't need them there, since the Volvo belts don't have this issue. drilled 2 holes into the seat frame/tub

I converted mine to a "headlights on" warning buzzer.

McMaster carr comes to the rescue again! Well, you too Cap’n. So either way, officially, NO OIL NEEDED. But feel free to grease’em up.

Maybe it's just me, but there's no way I would put a water based liquid in there. Yes, with antifreeze, it won't freeze, but there's just no way. I'd use something petroleum based. Is there a reason you didn't use oil?

A gentle 24th October (Japan time) bump for the 54th anniversary...

Yeah Harold is the guy with the parts. hopefully he still has it. It sounded like just what you were after and a decent price too.

Plenty of coils could work and start the car but you want the hottest coil you can run that will work with your distributor and ignition!! The hotter the coil is; the less fouling you will have!!!

Beautiful car Jim

I think he's Implying he might not be all there! 😂

First test… some changes need to be made for the bolt sizing but a workable prototype! Final piece in CF infused ABS, and possibly another in CNC aluminum billet.

Great looking car, congrats on your acquisition! You certainly picked the right color for your first Z and I'm not at all predjuiced, nope - not one bit! 😉 Welcome to the group, the source of lots of helpuful information and no snarky comments.

After performing more minor surgery and digging deeper today, I concur. It turns out the reason the passenger side looked so uneven was that the floorpans were indeed rusted and separated from the rails. One of the previous owners used some pretty sketchy techniques to perform the repair. On the driver side, there is a thin square of aluminum that was screwed into the rusty floorpan, to cover up a rust hole. On the passenger side, they used a combination of tar, what looks like rubber, maybe some bondo, and wait for it... a cut up Maxwell House Coffee Can!! I guess the repair really was good until the last find! This has got to be one of the worst repairs I have ever come across. It's funny, I was talking to a fellow Cub Scout Parent at Camporee this weekend, and he was telling me about his Mustang that he bought to restore and his rusty floors had been replaced with road signs! I guess this was a somewhat common quick and dirty rust repair for owners who wanted to hide rust from unsuspecting future owners? SMH. Looks like I will be buying new floors and rails. On a postive note, the same Camporee Parent is a professor of Automobile Mechanics at the local community college, and he recommended a former student that does rust repairs, so I will be reaching out to him.

Thanks. I assume then no matter what position the key is in if the driver door is open it will start The Buzz even a running car parked with the door open is going to sound the buzzer? You would think the fact that the car was running would be an alert enough without needing the buzzer to tell you you left the key in the car after all of this I'm sure I will unplug the wires under the dash at some point like everyone else

A reading from the Book Of McMaster: High-Load Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearings Increased iron content makes these bearings stronger and more resistant to shock loads than standard oil-embedded bearings; however they operate at lower speeds. Startup friction causes them to release a thin layer of oil on the bearing’s surface. Color is silver because of the iron. These bearings are also magnetic due to the high iron content. So I bet they are still oil impregnated bronze, but the high load variety with enough iron to be magnetic.

He is what I think I would do: I love the idea of shipping the carbs and intake states side and have them fully sorted and tuned! Maybe somebody like Zcargarage. preferably using a wideband to tune them. They come back ready to bolt on. That will eliminate fueling as a possibility once and for all. That shouldn't be cost prohibitive Secondly I would ditch the pertronix and the coil! Either buy a 280zx match box dizzy (would be used so might be worn out) and a new coil or ideally buy a 123 dizzy and the appropriate coil. This would be an upgrade from what you have and is also more tunable if needed. Run that for a little while. If the problem's solved then great; if not I would probably pull the engine and re-ring it and go through the head provided the cross hatching looks good. Edit: One of the few things we haven't touched in this whole episode is the Pertronix

This date is awesome!! My birthday day so I always celebrate by spending time with my Z and of course buy her a gift!!😀

Please read the specifications for the system and get another coil. We are trying to help. The coil is the heart of the system for spark. Do some research and you’ll begin to understand the theory of operation.

View Advert Set of 4 1970-1971 Datsun 240Z "D" Hubcaps Professionally Rechromed & Repainted! This beautifully restored set of 4 early and very rare Datsun 240Z "D" wheel covers / hubcaps that have been professionally re-chromed and have been painted as close to the original gray paint color as possible. All 4 of the hubcaps were first primed and then painted with gray paint and then a low luster clear was sprayed on the gray paint on all 4 hubcaps. This set of D hubcaps also has 4 brand new reproduction D center caps. The backsides of the hubcaps were first spray-painted with primer and then were spray-painted with some Rust-Oleum Satin Metallic Aluminum-colored paint to protect them from rust. Please note that this beautifully restored set of 4 "D" wheel covers / hubcaps are in excellent condition and only has just a few very minor flaws in the paint. Shipping via FedEx Ground is $70.00 and includes excellent protective packaging and seller's shipping insurance. Price lowered to $2,300.00 for ClassicZcar Members Only! SHIPPING TO THE 48 CONTIGUOUS UNITED STATES ONLY! Please email me if you have any questions. Thank you, Lonetreesteve Advertiser lonetreesteve Date 10/23/2023 Price $2,300 Category For Sale

If cranking is describing the engine turning over using the starter, the coil has nothing to do with the starter. The engine will turn over using the starter without any coil.

Probably going to have to contact the guy on FB market Place directly.

Ok so here's the latest. Reinstalled the ignition and it starts the car! yeah, first goal achieved. Oh and while I'm at it, here's a little backstory. This all started because the previous owner had a different key for every lock. I felt like a janitor walking around when i had them with me 🙂 So my goal was to get one of the "cool keys" which just so happen to match the 6/1/71 manual I have for my 6/71 car. It was a B#$%^ to find (not even repro anymore) and getting to work on all the replacements. But, I found a guy in Kuwait of all places that had not only a perfect NOS pair associated to a NOS hatch lock for like $60. I went about re-keying everything and now both doors, glove, ignition, and hatch all work on these NOS keys Thats the good news. A little more good news is that the dreaded buzzer works now so my switch replacement worked too! The bad news is that the driver door doesnt shut it off when closed. Closing the door will shut the dome light as it should but the key just keeps on buzzing. Any ideas where to look for that wiring miss? Oh and after poking around under there, any idea what this is? Certainly new / added by previous owner but not sure what it is. I thought maybe it was the flasher relay. looking at a few other posts this is probably meant to be that as it has the same color wires as below. The PO could have at least zip tied it up to something lol.

I can confirm that the washers do not fit on the pinion gear/shaft. The factory workshop manual provides information about selection of different snap ring thicknesses to achieve pinion gear end play of no more than .003 something. In the Youtube video above, it is a little difficult to determine where that guy put the washers even slowing the video to .25 speed, but I see that he puts them (it looks like he has two) directly between the spring and the large retainer screw. These two freeze frames show, bronze shoe missing from parts on rag and spring is in the "well" - retainer screw in hand... Washer now missing from rag, retainer screw being threaded in, screwdriver in left hand. I have a spare rack, and will pull the retainer on that one to see what I find.

This will use my EFI throttles, so injectors at the throttles, the angle of the intake puts the injector spraying right down the middle of the runner! Bar on the bottom is for map signal, it uses 6mm banjos. Middle port will be for the ECU, end will be for the FPR. I will be making at least one.

Thanks for the input - I do see what you mean in your pics - I wish I'd seen it earlier before I spent $35 + on the other color 😞 Did you mean Rustoleum brand? When I search 261413 carbon mist comes up under that brand? EDIT - I scrolled further through your post, and see that you did mean Rustoleum Brand I don't get the flat top comment, unless that indicates you can be contrary? 😄

I've never been inside a 240 rack but I would assume those washers are not for the bronze preload shoe, but are in fact used to adjust the pinion gear end play. On the 280 rack, the spring DOES push directly against the bronze show, and since there is no relative motion between the two in-use, I think that's OK. So without having any of the parts in my hands, I would guess that those washers would go onto the small end of the pinion gear shaft before the pinion gear goes into the housing. I'm thinking that with those washers not installed, you're likely to have a lot of end play "in-and-out" of the housing. And unfortunately you would most easily check and measure that end play with no other parts installed into the housing. If you take the bronze preload shoe out (which is easy) and grab the splined end of the pinion gear shaft, can you feel any play when you push it into and pull it away from the housing? There should be no movement of that splined shaft. I'm not sure you would be able to really check for that end play with the rack installed, but taking the rack back out is a lot more work than just pulling the preload shoe.

The best paint option I've found is different than what the general consensus uses. Bottom line? Rust-Oleum 261413 Metallic Carbon Mist. Top coat with Krylon Colormax 53530 Flat Clear. Bunch of detail here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67836-rear-tail-light-panels/#comment-645395 I know I'm swimming upstream against the other recommendations for the BFM0360 Ford Dark Shadow Gray, but if you're willing to entertain other options, I recommend the Metallic Carbon Mist. I also like the flat top carbs.

how far are they apart? I might have some floating around in my parts bin..

Hi all, I flirted with it for a long time... and finally pulled the trigger from a recent BaT auction: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-274/ I'm still a newbie, but excited to dive in and meet some of you in the future. And more than happy to be more than a lurker! It'll be taken on limited drives, but do want to get it out and enjoy it in Southern California. That being said, I am excited to work on restoring and updating as much as possible and keep it stock. Some information pasted from the listing: Early series 1 car in Safari Gold. California blue license plates. Matching engine numbers. Matching numbers on shock tower plate, door plate, dash vin, and firewall vin. Original “D” hubcaps. Correct early seats with tilt knobs. Correct early steering wheel w/o spoke holes. Correct speedometer starting at 20 MPH. Correct oil pressure gauge to 140 PSI. Tool bins behind the seat, not in rear hatch floor. Correct metal cooling fan. 2400 script valve cover. Correct E31 head. Early 4 screw SU carbs. Early air cleaner w/o winter – summer flap. Engine splash pan guard present. With that being said, I have a grasp on some basic things to immediately work on (based both on the photos but also the seller's comments), but would welcome any of your expertise and tips on things to focus on, take care of, look to fix etc. Especially things on early Zs that should be looked at. Would also love any thoughts on any glaring pieces that don't look stock that I can get changed out. Work done by previous owner (copy/pasted): re-trimming the interior fuel system service replacing the dashboard cap replacing the carpets machining the cylinder head rebuilding the brake booster replacing the head gasket replacing the ignition wires replacing the spark plugs replacing the thermostat replacing the intake manifold gaskets replacing the tie rod ends replacing the tires replacing the brake components replacing the steering rack boots replacing the brake master cylinder replacing the front brake calipers and pads replacing the rear wheel cylinders and shoes What I have right now. Obviously, some of these are just cosmetic, but listing what comes to mind: Battery tray rust remediation General rust remediation Are there any standouts? Rubber seals (misc.) Strut bushing replacements Assess jack point damages Check the glasspack-style muffler that was installed under prior ownership Splash pan with holes (from later model year) Likely not a good idea to go back to one with no holes? Engine hoses (replace with original styles?) I read that Philips-head clamps are newer adds OEM (or similar) radio to make drives a little more enjoyable This also depends if the car came without an AM radio originally. If so, I may keep it without Check if the powered antenna works Check if the clock works Not sure it does based on the auction driving video and photos Check gauges Not sure they do based on the listing Check map light Wheel and hub cap restoration? Hub caps look dark... not sure if the chrome has worn or there was a style like this? Oil/restore (steering wheel) wood Gear shift knob replace to stock Shift boot replace (check if original style) Thanks to @SacCyclone for selling and thanks in advance to all of you for the forum knowledge I'll be searching through and your expertise! Excited to get going.

jalexquijano. Pay attention to stop your suffering. This is where the red wire goes. See attached. Do you even know the resistance of your coil? 1.5 or 3? Nothing good happens until the ignition is correct.

Thats a great connection to make!!

Same here, actually the first time I have ever heard of using antifreeze. I have always added some oil, not for heat dissipation but because I have had inserts that were rusted so much I never got them removed. The shock companies instructions always suck. One set of instructions for every shock they have ever made! Once you tighten the gland nut make certain the insert has no vertical play.

There are at least three different varieties of the seat tracks over the years. The final version (what you have) was used in 77-78. The easiest way to notice the difference at quick glance (for me anyway) is the angled front tabs. Here's a pic where you can see the angled tabs. This is what you need for your 77: As for the ZX seat tracks, I have no idea if they are the same. Can you post a couple pics of the ZX rails?

That switch should be closed any time there is a key in the lock regardless of what position the lock is in. Should not matter whether the lock is in the OFF, ACC, On, etc. And a little late with the pics, but...

Thanks. I knew it could be done but never had any need till now. I knew the local machine shop close to me could but closed during China Virus.

I have not. Thanks for the suggestion. I will see what I can find out from places that are nearby.

So today I pulled out all my spare bushings again to compare dimensions. Generally they were all the “same”, nice loose fit on the trans shaft, not enough to make any play, just slip right on. BUT the one thing that is VERY different is the material the bushings are made of. Half were bronze, half were steel! I had one Timkin in a box and it was steel (see magnet firmly attached to the silver ones in pics below). The others were (I believe) from Exedy clutch kits. So regarding greasing or not, clearly to me at least, the steel ones would benefit from some grease. The bronze ones don’t “need” it but it won’t hurt. Going to keep doing the 4mm deep insert, which places it at the bottom of the chamfer. Even made an aluminum tool to beat it in without any fear of damage.

I am thinking of the single roller that snaps over the weld flange at the top of the door on the outside edge of the window slot. It helps keep the glass from tipping out like this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiL5dOcwIqCAxW7IUQIHe0tDTUQFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fzcardepot.com%2Fproducts%2Fwindow-glass-roller-bumper-guide-240z-260z-280z&usg=AOvVaw26J0DVuFr-nNenUUkUe5NR&opi=89978449

Just because they are refurbished does not mean they are set up properly. If the float levels, mixture and balance aren't right it's gonna foul plugs. It might be interesting to try to get a matchbox dizzy and dump the Pertronix. I have had mixed results with Pertronix. I wouldn't use one on my car anymore.

I got mine too!

No problem - 06029 is indeed the part number I ordered... and from RockAuto at that:

I will probably sell like 20-25 kits. A guy in thailand makes a bunch of stalks for the r35 coils. He will be making these, same material as stock.