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8hp more on a TR4? Thats what, 50% more horsepower?

There was an error in my list. I can't remember when I found out. This one should work better: Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ1GRJY

Wow its been 5 months since my last update! I have been slow to work on the Z as I have moved to a new home in Phoenix and it has been a very hot summer. Lately I have been able to get some time to work on the interior. I was never satisfied with the molded carpet kit I originally installed. Probably user error since it was my first kit but it felt very bulky and didn't lay nice. I eventually reached out to Chester and Herod for a carpet set. The gentleman I spoke to was very nice and had my carpet shipped out the following week. This is a loop pile style that I think fits the Z much better than the cut pile. Fitment was stellar and I had no issues installing and gluing down the individual pieces. While everything was out of the car, I decided to finally address my seats and ordered up a set of Sparco Sprints with mounts and OMP harnesses. I am looking into taking the Z to a NASA track day so this made my seat style an easy choice to meet safety requirements. Overall I am very happy with how the interior turned out. It is a comfortable place to be. One piece I completely forgot to pick up was the door sill covers. I recall my original covers being glued down vinyl. And I played around with the idea of ordering new ones or making my own. But I decided to paint the sills first to see how it looked, then decide on what to do. I am pleased with the satin black look. It blends in just fine and I think the pressed circles provide a nice "race" look as well. Lastly, I was able to pick up a close ratio 5 speed transmission out of an '82 zx from a friend who is doing a small block chevy swap. It was a direct swap and the extra 5th feels great. Rowing through the gears without bogging feels GREAT. Thats all for now, happy drives ahead!

I got delayed with painting the next batch of parts black because I forgot that the gas tank needed a bit of filler work. Where I left off with the tank, I had used the pin welder to pull low spots. When done with that, I blasted the exterior of the tank with black diamond (lightly) to remove the black paint the radiator repair shop had refinished the tank with. Then I glass bead blasted the exterior of the tank to smooth finish. I epoxy primed the tank a few days ago, and planned to paint black about 8 hours later, but again, forgot about needing to do the filler work. I was held up from connecting the engine to the transmission because the flywheel needed resurfacing and while removing the pressure plate alignment dowels, they got destroyed. So, I had to order new ones. I was able to get the machining done this past week (along with having the rear drums turned). Some very shallow rust pits remain, but taking it down further doesn't look to be called for to me. I chose to go with an Exedy clutch kit. PP and clutch that I am replacing were manufactured by "Atsugi": I should be able to install the engine and transmission this weekend.

How does it run? The typical no-AFR-gauge sign of a lean mixture is bucking and popping back through the intake manifold at part throttle acceleration. Don't get too focused on the numbers on the LED screen. If you're certain it's lean you could try the resistance tuning for the temperature sensor, that was previously mentioned. You can insert it in between the bullet connectors on the engine and let it hang for a quick test. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

That’s a great question on balance tubes - not sure. I know Coventry engines used them in multiples and mainly in racing but I found no tech info on balance tubes etc. Interestingly, a member on the TR Register recently had them professionally fitted to his TR 4 (in multiple form) and found 8bhp more at the wheels compared to DCOEs. But again no useful info was divulged. The trouble with most engines these were fitted to (as far as I’ve read) was that they were smaller engines that didn’t produce enough vacuum to lift the pistons sufficiently. Hence why they had a reputation for only operating properly at over 4k rpm - in racing applications. I think we should all just get ITBs + stand-alone ECU and get on with our lives :p - did I just swear?

It's time to ship off my chrome parts to someone - it is time to make a decision. So, I am revisiting this topic and wondering if anyone else has received re-plated bumpers from a place other than those mentioned that they would highly recommend? My consideration list currently includes: https://www.tricityplating.com TN https://www.redspartsattic.com TX https://speedsportchrome.com TX https://www.ogdenchrome.com UT Reds Parts Attic is a place I found looking on my own online. I got a nice email from the owner of redspartsattic back in July of 2022 - thought I would share: Thank you for contacting us for our chrome plating services. I appreciate the opportunity to earn your business. Our crew has well over 100 years combined experience. I know they will do a great job for you! Your parts will be plated using Copper, Nickel and Chrome. (TRIPLE CHROME PLATING) We go through multiple steps and procedures to achieve a mirror, chrome finish that will last. Not all chrome shops are the same, or complete the work the same way. We will treat your parts as if they were our own and not cut any corners. On our website you can view samples of our work under photo and video gallery. Please take a moment to read our previous customer testimonials. We take pride in customer service and chrome quality. We stand behind every order we do! Chrome Estimate: Bumpers with 2 guards - $1000 each Pricing will vary depending on your parts starting condition. Price includes minor straightening and dent repairs. We are currently running a 6 – 8 week turnaround time. Texas residence will be charged sales taxes. Price does not include shipping costs. I can provide you with a quote based on your zip code. We use FedEx and receive a discounted rate. I can provide you with a pre-paid shipping label. Please ask and I can help with instructions. You may package and ship parts using your own method. Please securely package and include all your contact information inside the box. Please email me your tracking information and I will personally keep a look out for your parts. Once parts are received I will contact you to discuss your order. Please let me know if any questions. I’m your main point of contact from start to finish. Customer service and communication are very important to me. I check and respond to my messages daily. Thank you for the opportunity to earn your business. Best regards, Joe DelVecchio Owner Phone: 713-299-1555 Call any time Email: joe@redspartsattic.com Website: www.redspartsattic.com Testimonials: Customer Reviews Photos: Photo Gallery

Consider leaving the mechanical pump in place and installing an electric pump. That worked for me for about 25 years on my '71 with York AC compressor. When I switched to a newer AC system, I stayed with the electric pump, removed the mechanical pump, and installed a block off plate in its place.

https://www.thezstore.com/product/2203/factory-clutch-brake-pedal-clevis-pin-74-78-260z- The Z Store, might measure one they have in their parts bin? Give them a call, nice guys.

Don’t forget to check the coupon tab and save an extra 15%😂😂

Hey Steve, I'm drinking your kool-aid and changing out some bulbs for LED's, the sidemarkers and license light are done. My 204Z and presumably yours have a two-filament bulb for the front parkling light / turn signal. The amber LED in your list for front turn signal appears to have only a single pole. Is there a two-pole amber LED in your recommendations? Thanks, Jim VID_20231013_113401697.mp4

It's way too lean, you can feel the lean miss. To stop this HEI thread from going even further into left field, I started posting in the existing AFM / lean running thread. Thank you for the link - I'll look at adding a POT - that seems like a practical way to make adjustments to the eng. temp ECU input

Consider https://www.pulidoplating.net. Several North Texas Z owners have used their services. Keith

I was wondering if they were used in multiples on other cars, did they mess with a balance tube?

This might be a good opportunity to encourage the owner to switch to an R134 system where the AC compressor mounts on the other side of the block. In my situation, most of the emission plumbing was removed and the compressor now resides where the air pump was previously.

Had to do this PITA repair so very many years ago. Possibly seperate the compressor from the bracket to increase manuverability of the bracket?

I did both openings 1/8" NPT & M5x1 Fixed the running issues! https://youtu.be/pvHhBw-u9Ro First I checked the ECT (cold, 70ºF) - 2160 ohms at the sensor at the ECU : 2180 ohms Normal OP temp 263 ohms. Values within normal range according to Datsun chart (thanks, ZedHead) I could swap it out for a Volvo one - & make it (marginally) fatter when cold.... Might need to do that depending on how the cold starts are now. Anyway, after that I went back to thinking about what could cause the hunting. I realized that when I did the TPS trigger signal, I didn't confirm that the relay I added had diode protection to prevent interference with the stock circuitry. I simply added a diode inline from the TPS to the relay to test the operation. With that in place, the hunting at 2.5K went away. So that aspect was resolved (YAY!) (Thanks also to @Captain Obvious for questioning the off idle interaction . The system still runs lean though. I don't know if all the cleaning out of coking in the TB & clearing other passages has made it leaner. I certainly didn't feel the lean running condition before I started all the mods. I looked at the AFM adjustment, and that made no meaningful difference. Manifold vacuum at idle is good. Regulated Fuel pressure is good While I cogitated on how to address this, I added the AC switch plate and added carpet mat stays So, I decided that instead of futzing with the AFM to try & tweak the AFR's 2 whole points richer, I decided to just raise the regulated pressure to 3bar - using a Volvo regulator of course As you can see form the video above, that brought the AFR's right where they need to be. new regulated fuel pressure under vacuum. Rises to 3bar with vacuum removed. Having confirmed the pressure is consistent & vacuum works I installed a nylon feed line & quick connect in the intake. Old FPR location is bridged with new hose above it. Bay Now I know the system is fully operational, I will revise the return setup, it is overly long - didn't want to cut down the hose that had to connect to the rail return until I knew it would work. With the fueling resolved, I'll switch the HEI module back & see if I can get that aspect resolved

Oh. Be careful with any information you find or get. I see some bad guesses out there. ZCD is selling a throttle body that he says will fit both Z and ZX. But I know that the bolt patterns are different, I've had both. My memory says that the ZX pattern and opening is smaller. A ZX TB will not fit a Z intake manifold and vice-versa. Surprised that he doesn't know this. https://zcardepot.com/products/big-throat-borla-throttle-body-60mm-280z-280zx?_pos=8&_sid=7968a8baa&_ss=r https://zcardepot.com/products/throttle-body-gasket-70mm-large-280z-280zx

I believe the fender bolts that are now interfering with the hood are supposed to have a shorter head than ordinary bolts.