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Thought I'd post a quick update on my progress rebuilding the Nabco clutch master cylinder. I removed the piston/spring out of the bore today. Tapped the hole in the reservoir as recommended above. I didn't have a sacrificial screw to cut off for the hole in the bottom, so I had to order a plug for it. The threads are very fine (M5 X 0.5). Screwed it in and forced the piston out using my grease gun. Next step is to locate/purchase a Nabco rebuild kit.

I'm all about learning and enjoy the "local spoken" translations you share with me/us. I ask the locals to wherever I'm visiting where they eat and drink instead of shiny signs on the main road. Borat is where I'm headed with this. You would be very similar to that character if you came over here. A good ernest guy making friends with a huge language barrier. If I came to your neighborhood with my country bumpkin "mirenukert" you all would have me strung up on a high tree limb. Thank you for being friendly with us, learning our language and very often teaching us. You are a character! (that's positive)

Just an update regarding carsteering.com racks. And I love to make posts in really old threads..... Checked today and Car Steering is still listing racks for the 280 as having 10+ in stock. Price is $260 + shipping. 240 racks are out of stock. 280 racks are same just need the right bushings for wider flange on the Left side. https://www.carsteering.com/buynow/1976/Nissan/280Z/Rack_and_Pinion/80-70087_AN Don't forget that Techotoy now makes all new steering racks for S30 https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z $695 list. $895 with their tie rod ends

Seems a prolific 240Z car and parts collector in Florida is selling up lots of original Datsun parts on EBay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=275781539731&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562&_ssn=jim240z3cgt Some of the unobtanium bits posted so far.

Just my own opinion here on Eibach - I've recently installed 2 sets of Eibach springs on 2 cars- one new set and one used set - and to my eye, the nose of both cars still sits too high relative to the rear ride height. I've heard that this happens to some folks and not to others. Upon examining the coils under load, the top 3 turns are fully compressed against each other, so it's probably a simple matter of cutting off a full coil turn to lower the car an additional 1/2" (the width of the coil itself), which would be a noticeable stance improvement. I'd venture to say that this shortening would likely yield minimal degradation of ride quality, given the full compression of the to 2-3 spring turns while under load already.

Wasnt bad at all to work with. A good box knife will make quick work of trimming these to shape. Only con to the material is the diamond texture it has on the top. Not 100% accurate, but the thickness/function/ability to paint was good with me.

Absolute lifesaver. These were a perfect match when doing my series 1. A personal thank you for your efforts!

He's changed a lot in 5 years! He's 6'7"+. He's a Caterpillar heavy equipment field mechanic

Some nice parts but I would have to have a special car to justify the costs

A few weeks ago the front carb did spit out fuel through the vent hose ontop of the float chamber. I'd assume the best place for a regulator would be after the mechanical fuel pump before going into the fuel rail?

Pressure is the result of resistance to flow. So, a small hole in the return line would only serve to increase pressure in the fuel system, and do nothing to regulate it. The pressure regulator needs to be inline before the carburetors to manage fuel system pressure. Providing correct system pressure is important because excessive pressure will force the fuel past the needle and seat, overfilling the float bowls and increasing the risk of a fire.

I doubt that I would have recognized Cody five years later although I see he still likes to pose with his legs crossed.

Yes. It has a thin "gasket" somewhee between 80graam and 120gram/m3 paper. I made a set out of 120gr, but it was a little thicker than the original. Plenty of rebuilds showing horn restoration, only problem is that the horn restoration is buried in the rebuild threads. Just need to be a little creative with google and search through the results.

Not sure if he got much taller, but he's certainly wider! : And shoutout to @Mark Maras

You're very welcome.

Yeah, that would be a nice picture to end with. Definitely getting gray. Might get my kids in that one too. They've changed a lot too

Don't take your car apart until you have too! Restore smaller sections and sub-assemblies as you go. Then repaint and reassemble. In the meantime you have a running car you can enjoy instead of a shop project

Keep Stock/Original. A vintage Z is a reminder of simpler times and a less evolved auto industry/design time. Keith

Gas pedal? The best one for heel and toeing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=horn+grannyknot+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=vmin&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjw_ZPh6-b2AhXkmGoFHakuDrAQ_AUoA3oECAIQAw&biw=320&bih=545&dpr=2.25